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More or less where I'd expect it. I've tuned a few NA6s above 110hp, both had Jackson Racing headers FWIW...They were both MSPNP1, the cobra head intake you have, and cleaned/flow matched NB injectors. No cats, very open exhaust. One made 124hp, another 116hp. One was on English Racing's dyno, another was as well, and later confirmed on KO Racing's dyno. Both Dyno jets.
About another half dozen or so are all between 106 and 110 however. What's your timing at 100kpa between 5000 and 7000 rpm?
More or less where I'd expect it. I've tuned a few NA6s above 110hp, both had Jackson Racing headers FWIW...They were both MSPNP1, the cobra head intake you have, and cleaned/flow matched NB injectors. No cats, very open exhaust. One made 124hp, another 116hp. One was on English Racing's dyno, another was as well, and later confirmed on KO Racing's dyno. Both Dyno jets.
About another half dozen or so are all between 106 and 110 however. What's your timing at 100kpa between 5000 and 7000 rpm?
Well you're right on course. Supposedly Spec Miata guys are around ~33* around redline, but I've found most cars max out around 28-30, which is right where you are. They're chasing every quarter horsepower, and are ok blowing up engines to find it. I'm not.
On another note, I've been playing around with timing just above idle, increasing it to see if it helps with throttle response off idle. If you wanna try it, select that 16-16-16-16-17 column at 1200 rpm and add 4*. As long as it doesn't cause your idle to hunt more because of it, it may help with idle tip-in.
New update: I just bought some FlowForce 380cc injectors that are ev14. This should make idle a bit more stable and I am also planning to run sequential fuel instead of batch.
I upgraded my injectors to a set of the beta flow force 380cc injectors as well as converted my car to sequential injection. I had to completely rework my fuel map. Before the upgrade I think my car was pretty tapped out on power and barely squeaked out 108. I went for a run doing some very limited auto tune and then a dyno pull and virtual dyno logged 111whp. Temperature and humidity outside was the same. So far I am making some nicer improvements with this tired 1.6 and it keeps chugging along.
My fuel map still needs some fine tuning but it is getting better and better.
Here is my most recent run overlaid by my previously best run.
Been fiddling some more with TunerStudio and learning all the cool settings and features like instantaneous timing correction to maintain a more solid idle. I think I’ve got power nailed as much as my engine can give. Now I’m fiddling with mpg in cruise.
Also I bought this. Time to see if probax really makes a difference.
Minor update so far: probax Elise seats do intact seem more comfortable for longer periods of driving.
Been learning more about tuning and have been having fun. Vtekkiller has been a tremendous help in bouncing ideas off of.
I purchased a few goodies that will be here in a week or so, but the first thing to arrive is an oem style connector for the afm connector so I have a fully plug and play ait sensor. I’m hoping having the connector as opposed to prongs that are electrical taped in place add to the long term reliability of the car.
Bought a cool gauge for my car. Spent a little while getting it setup via canbus and modifying an eyeball vent to get it to fit. It fits well and gives me cool info. Also found out that it can function as a digital input for table switching via settings with buttons and I can activate and deactivate sd card logging via the gauge. Super stoked to get the logging setup properly. Currently ran into a minor snag with it. The gauge is the perfect tuning universal gauge.
In theory they should do the job for your setup just fine.
Nothing "wrong" with them necessarily. I installed the 640's this morning. On first start up I noticed that the car seemed to settle back to idle noticeably better than with the 380s. Idle itself seemed about the same but I had been having issues with the car going back to idle in a smooth manner. Now I don't have an issue. I do not however have the Flow Force 640 set. I think the set that my friend bought but never got around to installing and sold to me were the KA Injection 610s but they should be brand new gt500 injectors. No issues with them so far. Much more data will be collected in the coming weeks / months.
On the 380s I had an issue getting my cranking pulse chart to make any sense because at cold start with the correct required fuel I was around 100% if not less. Still fiddling with these 640s but I think I will be keeping the 640s and selling the 380s.
There is certainly more knowledge about tuning 640s, although it's a bit of a roll of the dice to run such large injectors without flow matching.
We've had good feedback from other folks on the 380s, and I've upped the size of the o-ring to solve the leaking issue you ran into, so thanks for that feedback.
I don't want to necessarily knock the 380cc injectors. It is entirely possible that I am not that particularly good of a tuner and the 640cc injectors seem to mask my inefficiencies. I will keep at it so far.
Installed the girlfriends new clutch and flywheel. Turns out the old clutch disk broke a spring and it was wedged somewhere between the pressure plate and disk preventing the disk from releasing. After quite a few dirty weekends her car is back in one piece and drives nicely.
I splurged and bought a miataroadster tall angled shifter for it. Shifts even better.
Then I got to work on my Miata. Installed the front upper control arms and they went in nicely. I installed the rear uppers and they didn’t go in as nice. I think way back when when I installed my rubber bushings I didn’t perfectly center them on the arms. The rubber had enough give to make things work but the spherical bearings didn’t give much compliance in things not lining up nicely.
I did replace the steel sleeve that was included with them on the knuckle poly bushing in place of some sadfab bearings instead. Those are very nice pieces.
I also bought some more mystery parts that will be delivered probably sometime next month.
Hey guys, I just wanted to add that I am in the parts gathering phase for vvt swapping my 1.6 miata. In doing some research and finding some pictures online I found this connector. I bought it on a whim and sure enough it fits the cas connector where the cas would connect. So without splicing anything or cutting off my stock cas connector I am able to have the 4 wires from the cas to connect to the cam and crank sensors. I've been trying to make everything as plug and play as possible with as little cutting of the chassis harness as possible.
Picked up the awr swaybar mounts since they are sturdier than the racing beat blocks and they will give me more ac clearance in the future for a motor swap.
09-19-2018, 10:54 PM
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