Sport brakes with well sorted 3" ducts would get the job done. BTDT. Pads don't last as long but they work well enough.
If airdam is low enough and has undertray contacting it about 3" above lowest point, it generates some downforce. If its lbs/hp, I'd de-content it. Not as sexy, but possibly faster.

 

I think the rules state that the air dam has to be flush with the undertray.

 

Don't think that's the case, here's the rules specific to air dam.

"v) Full face air dams are allowed but must be vertical. Must be and sufficiently mounted/and supported so as to not deflect at speed."

And then there's the additional rule that doesn't allow you to sneak a splitter element in with just the air dam modifier thanks to Houghten lol. He was running air dam, but the TOP of the cutout for radiator was flush with the undertray.

"In instances where an allowed undertray shares a horizontal surface structure with an air or radiator intake (protruding as a splitter or NOT) with no vertical air dam-like portions on the forward facing exposed undertray, this will be deemed to be functioning as a splitter and given the corresponding modifier"


As far as splitter vs air dam, I'm guess the splitter could turn the same laptime in clean air, but for racing it's likely better to take the power. That's the route I'm going on top of our lil 6" chord wings that will likely prove to be futile

 

.

 

If the 6" chord makes its way onto Button, I will definitely be deleting the splitter, but that will be GLTC-optimization. My 173whp peak just aint gonna get any GLTC-optimization until ive checked off a few more NASA boxes. Maybe 2022. The JGTC wing is more likely to go on the other car for clout. :P

 

2020/21 offseason:
Shocks rebuilt by Inertia Lab
Up to 1100/550lb
-Planning to play with a softer front bar setting with the bigger spring rates, but was pretty happy with it last year on 1.125"/14mm stiff/stiff
New Supermiata 36-2 trigger is amazing for e85 cold starts.
sticker 225/45/15 R7s on 15x10
Data last year said whole car wanted more camber(-3.5/-3.6F, -2.7/-2.8R) Need to try to get near -4 front/-3rear, rear will be easy, front will need to slam to 4" pinch probably.







225/45/15 on 10 vs 9.5:

 

What did you attach the trunk skin with after? Quicklatches? Any provisions for sealing or just yoloswag vacuum that **** out after a heavy rain?

 

Aluminum hood pins.

Interior vacuuming is already the reality with no a pillar windows and open transport.

 

Do you do anything to seal up the window with the a pillar one missing? That a pillar window is a pain to push back in there for towing.

 

This was a big moment.

My own car finally on my own setup pad in my own 2 post lift in my own shop.

 

Cheers brother. I remember that feeling well.

 

 

I don't have any reference point for those lap times but I love seeing this car at the track setting lap times.

 

+1. Love the wheel colors too.

 

Gremlins and unforeseen issues have wreaked havoc on this car for the last year. The car hasn't seen competition for a year now.
It has less than an hour on a partial rebuild and picked up a very weird, super intermittent tick/rattle at the last lapping day that went away on my street test drives just long enough for me to become confident enough to tow it back to a track.
I tried another local lapping day at Nelson Ledges last weekend after another round of fresh fluids, camera bore scoping, compression testing, leak down testing, valve lash checks, etc and made the call to park it during the outlap of session one.
Next step will be to get this motor on the stand and pull the pan off.




I knew I was gambling so I had the wifey drive the newly prepped BRZ up alongside and I ended up driving it all day instead. Its gooood.


I am putting an OEM bottom end back in the car to finish the season out in at least some capacity.
I also bought a 97k mile vvt dropout from a local SpecMiata buddy as a Plan C backup backup.





Musical engine accesories:


The return of the MOARANGE:
This is a JDM NB2 bottom with my old SpecMiata 2014 'headgate' head, and the usual RB header/Squaretop/Skunk2 TB, etc.

 

So not the thing to get impressed about in a build thread, but I've never seen anyone use a car lift as a pseudo fork lift. Nice Job working smarter & not harder!

Good Luck with the engine!

 

Anything in the oil filter?

 

Hey duder. Drop me a line if it would be helpful at all to have a hand for a day if you're in any sort of prep crunch.

 

Thanks. I found this deal locally and committed to buy it before I had a solid plan of how to retrieve it. Seller had tractor with a fork on it, and I told him I’d figure out a way to remove it later, even if I had to disassemble it to remove it haha. Then I remembered I had two stationary forklifts…

🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
one is in a bag for blackstone.
one is still on the engine.
nothing at all in the oil of either. I should order a filter cutter.

No rush. I would have had it fired up yesterday had I not been drinking when assembling this longblock 2 years ago after shipping it here during the move. I used NA8 cam gears, so obviously I had a crank-no start on Friday to fix yesterday. It fired up today and sounds happy.






It needs a new dyno tune, a brake and clutch bleed, then some setup/alignment attention, but sounds and feels happy on a test drive.

 

Backup Motor finally off the stand, into the car and back from the dyno:

JDM NB2 bottom end. Unopened.
BP4W head, 2014 LagunaSeca SpecMiata SCCA Runoffs "Headgate" head (too deep of a plunge cut, too much short side radius work)
Squaretop throat ported to S2TB
Skunk2 Throtte Body
DW400 injectors
Racing Beat Header-back
MSPnP2
Midwest pump e85

146whp on my street tune.
149whp with some misfire/ignition breakup late in day after lots of runs.




This exact cylinder head and bolt ons made 143whp(138 nasa avg) in California on Propel e85 on an OEM USDM NB1 bottom end.
Up ~3-6whp on 1pt of compression bump. 9.5 vs 10.5. I'll be classing at 150-151 and hoping for a compliance dyno with a fresh ignition system to confirm that 146-149whp number.