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Did you wrap the door in another layer of carbon? I'm kinda confused there.
I am a ricer.
Originally Posted by Scaxx
I think he pulled @afm levels of troll and did a fake carbon fiber wrap on what looks to be real carbon fiber (maybe fiberglass?) doors. Well played either way friend.
CCP composite doors. There is a weave pattern on the inside layer but I’m fairly sure they’re 100% fiberglass.
NCM is awesome. I love the high speed sweepers and this was my first time there with any aero. T5 was easy flat, but I never made it through 17 flat. Haven’t gone super deep yet, but I plan to look at my TT6 record data and compare t5 min speed to TT5 record since I was on the same tire both times( the exact same set of tires a year apart)
The lack of consistent seat time is killing me, both mentally and in my mistake quantity and cleanliness.
I set a new TT5 record, qualified on ST5 pole with a new unofficial record(Race class lap records must be done in a race). DNF race 1 and towed home Saturday night with another dead bottom end. This time the Jdm junkyard one I bought in socal when with 949and that I’ve had under a dusty shelf for like 4 years. 2022 will probably be k24z3 powered.
2:19.492 TT5 record
2:18.7 rolling lap
2:16.2 optimal lap
2:19.9 single lap ST qual
I really want to get sub 2:18, as I think that’s the true pace of the current car and I think a k24z3 swap, 150lbs of ballast and 225/45s would still let T5 be flat and pull out of the slow digs way better on more tire and more torque. A real 2:16.9 is probably possible in xT5.
Same 2250lb/140avg, 205R7 on 8.5" splitter/wing build i've been running. Literally nothing new for NCM except CCP doors and more ballast to compensate.
This is the first flying competition lap of the weekend, just trying to replicate the 2:19.439 from Warm Up that put me 8th of 28 in TimeTrial grid.
I did a 2:18.7 rolling lap and compiled data of my best 3 laps of the weekend: TT WarmUp: 19.439, TT#1:19.492 and ST5 Qualifying: 19.9 says a 16.2 is "optimal"
Full disclosure, not a great lap by my standards. I am giving up a tenth in about half the braking zones(there are a bunch) and later in the day T5 was full throttle all the way through. NCM is tough being a ~2:30 laptime with 3 minute warmups/cooldowns. Just not enough cracks at a clean/fast lap in a 15 minute TT session, so it requires a bit of reserve.
In our "Lightning"/small bore race qualifying, I literally only got 1 flyer. Most TT sessions I am lucky to get 3 chances at something traffic-free.
Maybe its the track, maybe it was me just having an off day, but I am WAY less decisive/aggressive/intentful with my inputs in this video. Smooth, yes, but I really think the car's current potential is 16-17s. This especially hurts with the hindsight of a seized/dead engine in Race 1 ending the weekend early.
Better late than never. Apparently I never posted this here.
My Personal Best Mid O Pro Course lap is 1:36.988.
Unfortunately, I don't have video, only data. So this is video(and audio) of a 37.2 with a coupe mistakes with the 36.9 data overlaid. video is GLTC qualifying. Data is GLTC Race 2, lap 3 "battling"(drafting) Andy Smedegard.
Hoping you plan to weigh the Z3 with the new oil pump/pan/adapter plate once those arrive? As it sits the chances of it being lighter then an equally equipped BP look slim.
Yea, im either staying near the same net weight, or gaining weight with the swap, but thats fine. I use the max allowed 250lbs(300 for 2022) of ballast and would love to add more raw power to match my new heavier weight. I'm also adding a fire system alongside.
Starter is the same
Alternator similar enough Kpower trans adapter plate is a significant net gain vs zero adaptor required. Kpower flywheel is significantly heavier, plus a heavier 1.8 clutch. I had a super lightweight SPM 1.6 flywheel and unpsrung 1.6 puck clutch.
Kpower Intake manifold might be lighter than the two piece BP ones.
4:1 header vs 3" down pipe is the only obvious reduction.
Balance shaft delete is a reduction from a stock K24z3, but still most likely a heavier bare longblock than the BP. I dont think a balance shaft weighs 23lbs
Some budget tips…. a PPA ECU out of a 2002-2004 CRV auto will work, $55 at pull a part. Hondata says it has to be a CRV manual but mine is an auto ECU and works fine.
For the fuel line I used Dorman EFI connectors and BMW injector hose (8mm ID). The BMW injector hose is Kevlar reinf and I used injector clamps. It’s more flexible and less expensive then -AN lines and has survived in my e36 track car. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...iABEgJDovD_BwE
I’ve got both an RSX and an auto CRV ecu, along with engine harnesses already. Bought a big box o stuff in a partial trade for my last known-good BP shortblock, before I had a plan formulated and honestly, still don’t have the plan absolutely nailed down.
Progress is basically non-existent. I am waiting on KPower.
I'd like to gut and paint the engine bay, but have been lacking the motivation.
I got the Mazda Motorsports subframe gussets welded into a 90k mile known-good NB2 subframe. That will be the one I install during the swap.
Also, I have been looking for an OSGiken and finally found one, so thats cool. Maybe I'll have time to wrench on my own car again soon.
Progress has happened.
It took a looong time. I knew it would. I contemplated giving up and taking a step back to just DE/TT the BRZ for a while and selling the rolling chassis and my trailer, but I waited it out.
I'm pretty excited now, as about 95% of the parts are on hand.
I am still waiting on two items from KPower, and need to order a couple OEM cam/crank trigger wheels, intake manifold studs, and a few other tidbits, but I have enough here to get some prep done.
That prep started with finally cleaning the engine. With the wait, motivation to prep the chassis or engine was super low. So small things I should have started 7 months ago are still at the top of the list:
Pros for the long wait:
Kpower adapter harness is now a production item
Kpower oilpan v4?
Kpower intake mani v3?
Kpower throttle body v2.
Hydraulic release bearing is pretty dialed by now.
I also had the downpipe shipped straight to ceramic coating. It is going bronze to match my JDL pieces on the BRZ, as I really liked how that turned out.
Choices driven equally by my "80/20" build plan and budget, as well as new NASA ST/TT class penalties resulted in a cable driven KPower 74mm throttle body and Acuity B series throttle position sensor:
The new single piece, cast, front timing cover:
...and the intake manifold now has flats post-machined on the exterior of the flange for hardware. Studs were breaking pretty dang often for anybody racing on z3 swaps.
Something I'd had on my list for a year now was to lean the radiator forward and do a new hood exit duct a'la Corvette C5R. The various BP problems kept delaying that, so nows a good time as any with the engine out..
The brackets for this are prototypes and will probably not see production.
I like the radiator lean, I'm doing the same thing. Not sure if I'm going to seal the radiator exit to the hood though but definitely thought about it.
Progress has happened. I'm waiting on cam trigger wheels before I can seal it up though.
Also, i've stalled out on the engine management side.
1. I can't seem to find a dealer that will honor the discounted $400 + shipping(two ways for board modification) KPro4 upgrade price for an ECU that is already reflashed.
2. Also also, Hondata just raised the price of KPro4 to $795 + core ECU + shipping(two ways for board modification)
Hondata is no longer 'substantially' cheaper than going to a Haltech, so I am currently battling this scope creep snowball effect. I could probably sell my two honda ECUs and harnesses to cover the spread up to the Haltech 1500.
Not pictured, but I got the water pump housing reinstalled and also mocked up the OEM fuel rail and injectors.
Oil pump swap is done, pan is sealed, engine is timed, with a new chain, guides, and tensioner.
I still need to swap to the gusseted NB2 subframe, remove/cover the ports on my depowered steering rack and pull the mazda clutch hydraulics out.
I wanted the Haltech. But the custom harness from Bluegrass at the time was $2k at minimum spec. A GLTC guy I know with a yellow Miata said he spent $5500 on all his Haltech stuff and he already had the 1500. Not really sure what else he has but it’s a nice electronics package.
Buy MS3 for ~$1200
Build your own engine harness for ~$300
Boom, better standalone control then Kpro for(probably?) less money then Haltech.
This also assumes your comfortable wrangling electrons but... It's not that hard to do/learn.
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