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Its great. We've put ~6k miles on it in about 18 months. Lots of learning about RV maintenance and im glad the 36k mile 6.0L drivetrain is the last thing we have to worry about. Lots of fresh water lines, fittings, a sink faucet, water pump, generator rebuild/tuneup, etc...
I still want an enclosed trailer to go along with it and have lined up first rights of refusal on a buddies.
After owning the much larger Class A setup (and quickly learning large RV life compromises and maintenance joys), a shorter more mobile Class C setup similar to yours with an enclosed hauler is on the agenda for family track outings. Glad to hear it's working out well for you and nice updates overall!
Meh. Its less exciting than you think. 8100rpm with a 4.77 looks very similar to 7200rpm with a 4.3, regardless of the BP4W vs K24.
Also, I only have video of practice and I was being extremely timid. You'd really only want to see the qually laps and maybe race 2, but I need to work on camera placement/settings. I slapped it right onto the mount from my gopro, but form factor and the adaptor raised the actual lens quite a bit.
Originally Posted by Gee Emm
4.77 Tried that, didn't like it. How are you finding it?
Its a corrective math issue. I absolutely love it, but again, i have an extra ~1000rpm compared to a BP.
The OSGiken is magical, as they always are.
... I only have video of practice and I was being extremely timid. You'd really only want to see the qually laps and maybe race 2, but I need to work on camera placement/settings. I slapped it right onto the mount from my gopro, but form factor and the adaptor raised the actual lens quite a bit.
The splitter took a beating this weekend at Nelson Ledges and bent both of my mounts. The mount damage allowed the splitter to flap up and down quite violently and resulted in a black flag and an early load up to go home since I did not have the arts and crafts materials with me to fix it.
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The fix for the next event is a couple simple front cables. I will be building a new splitter with yet another mounting method this winter. The K oil pan makes this quite a bit more tricky, but I have a plan to get back to a subframe shelf lip mounting method.
This shot of the underside shows how much of the blade is just hanging, cantilevered out front. I am not really surprised it started flapping around once the mounts got bent enough to let air sneak around it.
I was also able to get the oil cooler on. These are the lines and mounting method/brackets from my BP setup, but with a new Mocal thermostat outlet plate and a brand new Setrab core.
This may be helpful reference, but I made a "shelf" bracket off the steering rack bolts that worked quite well with the kswap pan. Worked great for me for years just resting the splitter on it like a lot of factory subframe guys have done for forever. I removed it last year once I added Professional Awesome quick release mounts instead.
This may be helpful reference, but I made a "shelf" bracket off the steering rack bolts that worked quite well with the kswap pan. Worked great for me for years just resting the splitter on it like a lot of factory subframe guys have done for forever. I removed it last year once I added Professional Awesome quick release mounts instead.
Do you have a SendCutSend file or anything youd share with me?
As a former hose routing engineer, I am triggered by your oil cooler hose routing.
Edit: I also recommend the Susa live swivel hose ends for hoses with one end mounted to the engine and the other end mounted to something fixed (oil cooler). Helps to prevent the hose end from loosening up due to engine torque and hose movement.
As a former hose routing engineer, I am triggered by your oil cooler hose routing.
HAH! Yes, me too. I didnt take the time to shorten the already really short line that goes to the top of my cooler. The other one kinda has to wrap around the fan because both outlets would foul eachother coming off the outlet plate otherwise.
Again, making due with what i had on hand without opening and shortening the lines that already existed. This was a retrofit, not a from-scratch install.
Originally Posted by Midtenn
Edit: I also recommend the Susa live swivel hose ends for hoses with one end mounted to the engine and the other end mounted to something fixed (oil cooler). Helps to prevent the hose end from loosening up due to engine torque and hose movement.
Thats actually the exact fitting used, the base locks to the cooler core and the hose can swivel freely. Their lengths just happen to keep the hose off the accessory belt and out of the way of the fan airflow.
Those arent my design, they're a prototype set and never made it to a public product.
With the K, they introduce the problem of the rad cap no longer being the high point. With a BP, the rad cap is/was still the high point.
So, if they now require a surge tank or inline fill point, they could be even lower and more slanted, so theyre a bit of an imperfect solution as-is.
Do you have a SendCutSend file or anything youd share with me?
Just because I love you all here on MT (..and definitely not related at all to the fact this is a hyper limited market part that next to nobody except a few of us kswap crazies would ever want or need), here you go
Should cost you <$30 through SCS if you make it from 0.125" 5052
Those arent my design, they're a prototype set and never made it to a public product.
With the K, they introduce the problem of the rad cap no longer being the high point. With a BP, the rad cap is/was still the high point.
So, if they now require a surge tank or inline fill point, they could be even lower and more slanted, so theyre a bit of an imperfect solution as-is.
NASA Mid Ohio Aug 2024: A birthday weekend tradition now. 36 years old. OOOF
I've loooooong dreamed of driving a miata like this:
-zero ballast(2297lb with driver)
-full power map(~207 peak, 196 NASA average)
-225/45/15 Hoosiers
-6/4.77 OSGiken
-splitter/wing
It was awesome. Highly recommend.
In this config, my car actually fits into NASA ST4/TT4 pretty well. I would be allowed another canard, aftermarket brakes, sphericals, and a much bigger splitter, but this is much more of an *actual* xT4 car than I ran a year ago for shakedown.
Supermiata OSGiken installed. 4.77 gear. Still behind a 6 spd. New gearing and first time with an OSG since 2016!
Splitter rods worked an absolute treat. Never heard a scuff, never felt a flutter, perfect. The front end is definitely way more fragile and harder to load/unload, but worth it so far.
Oil cooler worked an absolute treat. My fear of human error and cross contamination of the oiling system were unfounded and I am now 50:50 on successful oil cooler debuts without blowing an engine.
AIM MXm worked an absolute treat. I could see coolant temp and rpm again. Still no fuel level or oil pressure/temp, those are all at the top of the winter improvements list, along with brake pressure and more aero tweaks.
I never once felt like the ECU pulled timing or that the engine lost power late in a session. Many sessions went by with my fastest laps being 6, 7, or 8, partly because these 225/45/15 Hoosier R7s are DOT dated 2019 from contingency winnings pre-covid...
Photos in nearly chronological order:
I played around with some spat ideas. I almost went ahead and riv-nutted a much smaller version of this to the rearward face of the fiberglass bumper, but opted to shelve it and do bigger, nearly full fender liner spats out of HDPE later.
AIM x Hondata canbus correction on the trailer at home AFTER loading everything. Turns out KPro 4 uses "MoTeC" protocol and not the earlier Hondata protocol listed/loaded in the AIM software...#PROTIP
The rig:
decent shot of the front end. Its been hard to photograph since its now gloss black... lol
VR1 20w-50 makes this motor a whole lot quieter and smoother. Or *fresh* oil does. Either way, only the second full fill since i dumped the initial startup oil like 16 months ago.
screenshot of the wallride during my fastest ever Mid Ohio lap with awesome Kilometers from before I fixed that in the dash...
TT4 trophy and "Latte"
1:35.0 for the 'gram.
On sunday after it got hot I drove my buddies new Neon project to a 1:42.9, 42.8 rolling, 42.6 theoretical. It was a blast. I really, really enjoyed it. Mostly for the sheer change of pace, FWD, open diff, no aero and there is something about just wringing the neck of something slower than you are and being able to extract "all" of a car's potential.
The neon gave me lots of thoughts/ideas. I have long theorized a FWD sedan/wagon in NASA's old PTE rules for the credits given to driveline and body shape....xT6 no longer gives the 5 door credit, but FWD and 18:1 is a really cheap way to have alot of fun...
Sexy pro photos:
On grid session #1 before timing and scoring made me add an "X"
The payoff:
My new personal best laptime: 1:35.0.
I drove better on Sunday, but couldnt outpace conditions and heat cycles.
On Sunday I ran 5th gear from T1 up to keyhole to save that shift and also had all of Saturday under my belt with the OsGiken. The car feels a smidge tight, but not as tight as it looks in this Saturday morning video.
Ironically, the car has been more successful in 4 than it was in 5. That is solely due to the competition levels in the classes. The car, on paper, is a better 5 car than 4 car, but it is soooo much fun to drive in 4 with full power and front aero and on good tires...
A NASA instructor at Road Atlanta back in the day had a Sentra with a Nissan V6 shoehorned into it for some TT class and he stayed on the podium consistently. FWD on track is a different animal.
I dont need to sell it, but I once again feel the annual season-wind-down urge to not make another several thousand dollar reinvestment into 'progressing' this car to the next level.
*IF* I was to keep it, i'd be focusing on the following:
-Install the Radium VTA Competition Catch Can solution ive pieced together. Dual inlets, drained back to the engine. All hardware acquired, just need to make time.
-Remove the inline mechanical fuel pressure gauge and replace the remaining fuel soft line. Gauge is broken and it feels like a liability risk.
-fine tune the 5th gear gate on the CAE
-15x10 wheels for permanent/full time 245/40/15 running
-FIA rain light
-install driver's side headlight, wire both(+FIA light) to a switch
-Finish the restrictor plate project and get a solid detune map built for NASA ST5/TT5
OR
-Make the whole jump to ST4/TT4 with a new 4" deep splitter and install the TSE 11.75" Wilwood Superlite BBK I have on the shelf.
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Tried that, didn't like it. How are you finding it?
