thejeans 2004 Mazdaspeed Miata
09-04-2014, 04:20 PM
#41
those are 01+ cops on your car.
Those very rarely actually die.
trust me, I know what your engine bay looks like, we have 14 NB's at my brother's house
So have you checked timing offset and made sure the hydra and the engine are sync'd?
You'll need a timing light for that.
BTW: feel free to tell me at any time to stop posting in this thread, and I will. I'm not trying to give you a hard time with the n00b comments, more so I want you to have an accurate gauge of the situation and not start ripping crap apart cause you worked on other cars before.
You'll figure it out, I have faith in you
Those very rarely actually die.
trust me, I know what your engine bay looks like, we have 14 NB's at my brother's house
So have you checked timing offset and made sure the hydra and the engine are sync'd?
You'll need a timing light for that.
BTW: feel free to tell me at any time to stop posting in this thread, and I will. I'm not trying to give you a hard time with the n00b comments, more so I want you to have an accurate gauge of the situation and not start ripping crap apart cause you worked on other cars before.
You'll figure it out, I have faith in you
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09-04-2014, 10:12 PM
#42
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It's all good man, I do appreciate the help.
It's a been a shitty summer for vehicles for me. DD (05 mazda3 I've owned the last 6.5 years) died in the middle of the miata build and meant the build money for the miata had to go toward buying a new DD so I just don't have the dough to go to a shop to fix it right now. I plan to get it tuned and refined next year but was hoping to work these kinks out to atleast enjoy it some before winter.
just frustrated with the car and trying to figure it all out. Haven't been sleeping well and the combo of sleep deprivation and constantly racking my tired brain to figure it have just left me worn out...
I will try to find out all the info for the Hydra and checking the timing to make sure it's synced this weekend
It's a been a shitty summer for vehicles for me. DD (05 mazda3 I've owned the last 6.5 years) died in the middle of the miata build and meant the build money for the miata had to go toward buying a new DD so I just don't have the dough to go to a shop to fix it right now. I plan to get it tuned and refined next year but was hoping to work these kinks out to atleast enjoy it some before winter.
just frustrated with the car and trying to figure it all out. Haven't been sleeping well and the combo of sleep deprivation and constantly racking my tired brain to figure it have just left me worn out...
I will try to find out all the info for the Hydra and checking the timing to make sure it's synced this weekend
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09-04-2014, 11:04 PM
#43
The timing offset is called Timing Reference Angle and is under the settings menu.
Timing reference angle indicates where TDC is assumed to be relative to the internal model of the trigger setup for the motor. This setting can be adjusted in most cases to allow the physical TDC mark to match with the internal Hydra Nemesis 2.7 unit’s TDC mark. On older motors with adjustable distributor bases, it is possible to match the physical ignition advance as measured with a timing light to the ignition advance value shown on the display window of the laptop software by adjusting the distributor position. On later model motors with no physical method to adjust the physical timing, you must adjust the timing reference angle so that the physical ignition advance measured with a timing light matches the ignition advance value shown on the display screen. To facilitate this process, it is recommended that the ignition advance map be modified around the idle region to a single timing advance value and that any ignition trim used to help maintain the idle target speed be zeroed. With the motor at normal operating temperature and a steady idle speed, attach an electronic timing light to the motor and validate using the timing marks on or near the crank pulley that the timing advance matches that shown in the display window. If the timing does not match, adjust the timing reference angle to bring the physical timing advance to the value shown on the display screen.
The edit box allows you to type in the timing reference angle. The value has a limited range that is acceptable depending on the trigger type selected. The range is adequate to bring the physical advance value to the displayed advance value.
That is from the hydra 2.7 manual but i doubt earlier versions are different
Timing reference angle indicates where TDC is assumed to be relative to the internal model of the trigger setup for the motor. This setting can be adjusted in most cases to allow the physical TDC mark to match with the internal Hydra Nemesis 2.7 unit’s TDC mark. On older motors with adjustable distributor bases, it is possible to match the physical ignition advance as measured with a timing light to the ignition advance value shown on the display window of the laptop software by adjusting the distributor position. On later model motors with no physical method to adjust the physical timing, you must adjust the timing reference angle so that the physical ignition advance measured with a timing light matches the ignition advance value shown on the display screen. To facilitate this process, it is recommended that the ignition advance map be modified around the idle region to a single timing advance value and that any ignition trim used to help maintain the idle target speed be zeroed. With the motor at normal operating temperature and a steady idle speed, attach an electronic timing light to the motor and validate using the timing marks on or near the crank pulley that the timing advance matches that shown in the display window. If the timing does not match, adjust the timing reference angle to bring the physical timing advance to the value shown on the display screen.
The edit box allows you to type in the timing reference angle. The value has a limited range that is acceptable depending on the trigger type selected. The range is adequate to bring the physical advance value to the displayed advance value.
That is from the hydra 2.7 manual but i doubt earlier versions are different
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03-13-2015, 03:52 PM
#44
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so i let the car sit for several months this winter and then started searching for what the misfire issues could have been. the time away i believe was big cause i caught a definite snag and potential cuplrit as to why i have the misfire. the Timing wheel apparently is missing one of the 4 teeth. I know the wheel fell last summer during the whole rebuild but i didnt catch the damage when i installed it, thats my bad. I have to just chalk it up to exhaustion.
I have a new wheel ordered and will need to recalibrate the Hydra to recognize the new 36-2 tooth timing wheel but im hoping that atleast fixes the misfire issue. ill keep you guys posted after the new part comes in and i can get it installed
also ordered a set of Bronze 15x9 Jongbloed Aero 500 wheels today with a few other parts for the miata.
I have a new wheel ordered and will need to recalibrate the Hydra to recognize the new 36-2 tooth timing wheel but im hoping that atleast fixes the misfire issue. ill keep you guys posted after the new part comes in and i can get it installed
also ordered a set of Bronze 15x9 Jongbloed Aero 500 wheels today with a few other parts for the miata.
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03-26-2015, 10:21 AM
#47
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haha at jonglongdongs and yea the wheels do look good, i wish they were lighter too but the price makes me ok with them being a tad heavier. tough to beat when they were $108 a wheel
Last edited by thejeans; 03-26-2015 at 02:21 PM.
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04-13-2015, 03:16 PM
#48
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Tore into the car to replaced the damaged Timing wheel. I have no doubts that this was the major cause for the misfire
new timing wheel is in and the misfire is substantially improved
new timing wheel is in and the misfire is substantially improved
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04-15-2015, 09:39 AM
#51
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plastidipped the hardtop latches to see if i liked them black, plan will be to get them powdercoated matte black down the road.
started pulling all the emblems, I am bleaching the front and rear mazda logos and then painting them black. a few pics of during and after all the tape residue removal
After all that i decided to start cleaning and polishing the stock radiator cowl cause it was filthy. you can see the during and and after in these pics
started pulling all the emblems, I am bleaching the front and rear mazda logos and then painting them black. a few pics of during and after all the tape residue removal
After all that i decided to start cleaning and polishing the stock radiator cowl cause it was filthy. you can see the during and and after in these pics
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04-16-2015, 08:49 AM
#52
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Painted the heat shield for the intake black, did some serious scrubbing/cleaning in the engine bay and sanded all the side markers smooth so that they look good with the tint film I'm going to put on them. With the car down while the headlights are getting blacked out I've killed time tinkering with little things the past few nights
2 days down on the bleaching, i think another day should have them ready to be prepped for paint
2 days down on the bleaching, i think another day should have them ready to be prepped for paint
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04-19-2015, 09:27 AM
#59
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made my own windshield washer bottle, car didnt have one and the relocation kit i got with the car didnt work cause of the blow off valve placement.
emblems are ready for paint too!
emblems are ready for paint too!
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04-20-2015, 08:41 AM
#60
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Painted the Emblems Black Mica with touch up paint i had leftover from my 3..
lamin-x on the bumper reflectors or whatever you want to call them haha
baked the headlights open, then blacked out the housing instead of the old black chrome that was on them.
]
^ thats the best i can do with the car in the garage, hopefully i can get it out for some proper pics this week
lamin-x on the bumper reflectors or whatever you want to call them haha
baked the headlights open, then blacked out the housing instead of the old black chrome that was on them.
]
^ thats the best i can do with the car in the garage, hopefully i can get it out for some proper pics this week
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