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Idk how much progress you've made on your harness, and what materials you've ordered, but a true motorsports grade harness with concentric twisting, DR-25 sheathing and rigid boots/transitions is insanely expensive compared to a "clubsport" straight loomed TXL with DR-25 over it. You are also not using one of the "standard" motorsports bulkheads so booting that might be a little difficult.
If you have the budget, both monetarily and time, the motorsports grade stuff is definitely the way to go, but the "clubsport" level is just as effective and much cheaper to execute.
I think I was all in $500~$750 in materials for all new connectors for my Haltech Elite 1500 and OE connectors for the motor, HD30 bulkhead connectors, Bussman fuse boxes, TXL wires, DR-25 for engine bay side sheathing, TechFlex split loom for the interior sheathing. There was only 1 boot on the engine side bulkhead and that was already ~$25. Tefzel is ~3.5x the cost compared to TXL. If you're concentric twisting, you're probably going to want to include service loops in the bulkhead strain relief, and you run out of room real quick with the thicker TXL insulation. Additionally, each individual branch transition from raychem is around $10-$25 iirc.
I'd also highly recommend the HP Academy wiring courses, I purchased the clubsport package and was able to plan/purchase/construct/test my harness based off the stuff I learned in that.
Not trying to dissuade you from attempting a fully sealed, concentric twisted, ***** to the wall harness, but just know that its not a cheap endeavour, and it takes way more time than a simpler harness construction. I have some pics and sample documentation on my build thread for a less complicated harness with my Elite 1500 if you want to take a gander as well.
GHO Bumper looks great, btw
I haven't made any progress since last I posted, which I'm very sad about. I'm gearing back up to delegate some more time to this thing in the coming months so I appreciate and and all input.
I tried the concentric twist on my MS3 harness and it's a ******* pain in my ***, I love the look but I think I'm in your world now with questioning if I truly need something that involved and costly especially considering I'd rather drive this again thing sooner than later. I got the HP wiring courses a few black Fridays ago and am probably halfway though them, great resource.
I'm likely going to dial my efforts back to the "clubsport" level, after mulling things over this past weekend. I have a bunch of tefzel that I'd been buying so I'll likely run with that but without all the twisting and ****. If you have any more pic of your harness I'd love to see them, just throw them in here?
Worked on wiring without taking any pics, basically got everything de-loomed and started routing how I want things and took inventory for what I need to order to get going on that chore.
Moved on to aero/body stuff, looking to have this thing painted sometime this year and lots to do... Rough mounted the Tuckin99 flares and the WW skirts, went back the next day and lowered the flares part where they "fit" and more to where they look good. Tuckin99 flares were designed with 16"+ wheels in mind so 15s always give them monster truck vibes.
The mounting holes are merely suggestions at this point.
You can see how much I lowered this flare at the 3rd cleco, nearly an inch lower.
No only lowering but trying to keep the arch from looking weird, going to be tough.
After sleeping on it I decided I hate how the cut rear flare looks, so I'll repair it and then cut the skirt to overlap somehow. My "measure never and cut forever" mentality really ***** me sometimes.
These better illustrate the before & after of mounting them how they fit vs lowering them how they look decent with 15s. Yes, I'll be running huge spacers because looking good has to matter.
I tried the concentric twist on my MS3 harness and it's a ******* pain in my ***, I love the look but I think I'm in your world now with questioning if I truly need something that involved and costly especially considering I'd rather drive this again thing sooner than later. I got the HP wiring courses a few black Fridays ago and am probably halfway though them, great resource.
I'm likely going to dial my efforts back to the "clubsport" level, after mulling things over this past weekend. I have a bunch of tefzel that I'd been buying so I'll likely run with that but without all the twisting and ****. If you have any more pic of your harness I'd love to see them, just throw them in here?
Finished product in the engine bay
Engine bay flat lay before sheathing in DR-25
Sheathing completed, interior tech-flex sheathed, engine bay DR-25. This was with the old Micro280 fuse boxes that I've since swapped for a mini-ISO sized box now. Engine bay side bulkhead had not been installed yet.
Another shot of engine bay harness, not connectorized yet.
Loving these updates, glad you are making progress. I think your flare mounting is on point after the lowering. It's funny how small things like that make such a huge different, if only to your eyes. I remounted my street wing about 3/4" further forward and love how it looks compared to how I first had it (9lr recommended mounting spot), even if functionally it might be a touch worse. It just does it for me, and maybe most people wouldn't even notice the difference. I get the same vibes from how you are fitting this kit and definitely approve! Things like having a decent tire > fender gap at proper ride mean this thing can function and look great without having to overly lower the car, etc. Also the fore-aft of the center of the flare needs to be centered, as you have, or else that **** looks whack. I've seen too many flared cars where that bugged the **** out of me. So in summary, I think you are gonna nail it because you are paying attention to the details. Good work bud.
Loving these updates, glad you are making progress. I think your flare mounting is on point after the lowering. It's funny how small things like that make such a huge different, if only to your eyes. I remounted my street wing about 3/4" further forward and love how it looks compared to how I first had it (9lr recommended mounting spot), even if functionally it might be a touch worse. It just does it for me, and maybe most people wouldn't even notice the difference. I get the same vibes from how you are fitting this kit and definitely approve! Things like having a decent tire > fender gap at proper ride mean this thing can function and look great without having to overly lower the car, etc. Also the fore-aft of the center of the flare needs to be centered, as you have, or else that **** looks whack. I've seen too many flared cars where that bugged the **** out of me. So in summary, I think you are gonna nail it because you are paying attention to the details. Good work bud.
Form over function, baby.
Thanks man, I was pumped to finally be back brainstorming on this bitch.
Oh yeah, figured out how I'll be matching width difference between the Tuckin99s and the GHO front. Sorry for the quality but you get the idea.
I realized I'm absolutely going to have to bite the bullet and purchase NoPro flares some day but I'm absolutely going to make these work in the interim.
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