icantlearn

Thank for the info Emilio! Thats some golden info.

I do have 900/500 but 15x10s with 245 rc1. So combined with the aero it makes things a bit more complicated although its not doing much through the corkscrew. The rear was actually the main culprit in terms of rubbing. Although I could hear the front rubbing as well.

You say to use ELBJ. Is this because it gives more camber to tuck the tire in?

Here is my setup. 900/500 xidas. 12 clicks from full soft on front 10 clicks rear. 4.5" pinch weld height square. 1.125 x.188 wall front, stock rear bar. 15x10 6ul with 245 RC1.

I still need to align the car. So once I do that it should give me enough camber to tuck in the tires. Also, 4.7" ride height sounds like a good idea as well.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Tires just too big. Need moar fender pull. I assume rubbing on outer shoulders, not inside wheel wells. And yes, Xida race and OEM fender liners not compatible

icantlearn

Yep, rubbing on the outer shoulders.

driver side rear


drivers side front


Guess I'm going in for a pull.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Well, flat roll worked for us on the NB, assuming no wheel spacers.

icantlearn

Flat roll and no spacers here.

icantlearn

To ELBJ or not to ELBJ.....or offset upper control arm bushings. I can't find any solid info on why the bushings are a bad idea other than, "Upper offset bushing is fail."--Aidan

I know that they can rotate. But other than that they seem fine?

Any downsides to ELBJ?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Are you having trouble getting enough camber?

Upper control arm offset bushings move the tire inward and you lose tire to shock clearance. Check out 949s alignment page. They mention it.

ELBJ will mess with your available caster range.

Offset lower control arm bushings are another good option.

icantlearn

Ya, I can't get enuf camber

So Offset lower control arm bushings > ELBJ?

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Different solutions. Similar results. Offset lowers are cheaper. And to not mess with your caster like elbj do. But offset lowers are also more difficult to install (imo)

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The KMiata guys needed a pretty big pull to clear 15x10 6ULs with 245/40 RC1.

Not as big as i did with these stupid Longerdongers, but still a pretty big one. To the point that they had spaced out their front fenders for clearance. Wondering why the inconsistencies across cars. Onetwo and Padlock didn't appear to need so much work to fit their setups.

Bryan Z.

Sorry to bring up such an early post, but do you have any pictures as to how you routed the AN hoses? Thanks.

icantlearn

I dont. But I can get them. Its pretty simple really, they both go to the left (toward the oil filter) through a gap between the side of the rad and the rad support. Ill get some pics tomorrow if I remember. But you might have to remind me.

Bryan Z.

Thank you so much. I am trying to install the TSE kit as well before MRLS and cant seem to find a viable spot while retaining AC. Amazing car by the way!

icantlearn

Even without A/C its kinda the only safe spot for it unless you can make a crazy custom mount. Also, make sure the fittings are all nice and tight. Mine seem tight but I feel like my oil leak is coming from one of the fittings still. Good luck with the install.

Steve Dallas

You might find this post helpful:

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...3/#post1438145

icantlearn

I routed my hoses through the top.

Bryan Z.

That is exactly what I was looking for.

Bryan Z.

Got it. I am going to use same mounting location. Any issues with radiator surround slicing through hoses?

Steve Dallas

My Koyo radiator sits a little farther forward than his, which leaves less room. Also, there are sharp edges in that area, so you will need to protect the hoses with a piece of radiator hose or similar. There are only smooth things where I routed my hoses, so I just put 3 wraps of Xtreme tape around the hoses in places where contact occurred. Food for thought.

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

This would be why you make sure your radiator surround is dull, via files and sandpaper, and why you sleeve the hose with a piece of old radiator hose so that it takes the hit, not the oil line.

Edit: I sleeve all my lines this way, any time there is any question of movement against something else. And generous use of zipties to minimize said movement.