correct. a car shouldn't need the same 20* at 1900 in vac and 3500 in boost

 

the 20* column is base map. I will smooth it out now. But wont be able to stick it on the dyno to really hone in on it until later on. Ill take some logs on the street to double check knock. But im 99% sure it will be fine. Thanks for pointing that out guys. I actually didn't notice that one column. I thought u were asking about the lower region 2500rpm 80ish kpa cells (which were the problem on the dyno). I totally forgot to fix the 3480 rpm and 157 kpa column. So thanks.

 

I'm OCD lol

 

So uh....wtf.

 

Why do you have a flanged nut on your UBJ?

 

Because I lost the castle nut. But thats not the issue. Its doing it on the other side as well, and the other side has castle nut.

 

Ok well. Balljoints and control arm bushings are the only possible things to cause that.

 

The control arm bushings are brand new. Ball joints felt fine.

 

Check again i guess? Those are the things that determine control arm play/movement.

Original arms and uprights to the car?

 

ok. ill take another look. And yes, original. Thx ben.

 

Sketchy dampener must be the secret to running 1:44 at LS

 

Weight reduction. amirite?

I was at laguna yesterday and set a new PB. Finally broke into the 44s. Super happy about that. I feel accomplished. Especially for used old street tires. (Oh yea, I ditched my rc1s for a used set of vr1s.) Im still fighting understeer. And the wing is set super negative AOA. So im kinda confused as to why its still pushing.

I have footage but I dont think anyone actually cares. So pics it is.

 

Im always interested to watch driving videos, post em!

What front swaybar holes are you using? What are your tire temp spreads?

Any chance to increase front downforce? You are not racing in a class, correct?

 

Yeah, post your chassis and alignment specs any time you want help figuring out balance issues, otherwise we need to dig through your thread to find out if you're running a rear bar or not.

 

Alignment:
-3 front
-2.5 rear
6.8* of caster
0 toe front
1/8" toe rear

iirc 34 psi square. I dont have a pyrometer.

Racing beat 1.125" front bar, stiffest setting. SPM Rear 14mm bar, stiffest setting.
900/500 spring rates. 4 clicks from stiff square
about -4* AOA wing

Ill post some video I guess. I was playing around with settings all day and stiffening the rear shocks did help, but the car would start to kinda skip when I was making tight radius turn like t2.

 

Try changing the front bar to the softer setting, no other changes. I think that will help.

But, you really need a pyrometer. I can lend you mine, (until you get your own) i dont use it, its a simple longacre probe type.

You may find the temp spread is not ideal for the front or rear tires. Alignment alone could be your solution.

Pm your address if you wish.

 

Here ya go

Pyrometer on the classifieds.

https://www.miataturbo.net/stuff-sal...3/#post1490364

 

I dont think this is a good solution, I should be upgrading to the 1.25" bar. Not going softer. The front is way to soft as it is.

This very well may be the missing link. But I dont wanna run -4*+ of front camber, the car is still street driven. There has got to be a way to neutralize it without going full racecar specs.

 

Iirc sway bars decrease grip on the corners they are located, and transfer grip to the opposite (fore/aft) end of the car.

So increasing swaybar stiffness in the front will further decrease front grip, and increase rear grip.

Or this is completely wrong, and dont listen to me, Im just throwin ideas around.

You dont daily your race tires, correct? I was easily getting 10k miles of hard street driving out of re71r and -3.4f/-2.8r camber.

Also, don't assume you need more camber. You may find out, with pyrometer data, that you need less. Or other changes that may be less aggressive.

 

increasing front bar with keep the front flatter, which I need. But it wont help with understeer. Im trying to close an s1 car without the cage. The car just shouldnt be pushing this hard with this mild of FRC. I think rear aero might have something to do with it. My end plates and gurney flap are both too big I think. I also need to keep the car from rolling over so much. So upping front spring rate and front bar is in order. But I have to neutralize the car. So this is gonna be tricky. I think starting with a wing change is the best thing to start with. My work is now a dealer for the NLR wings. So im debating between the swan neck wing or the regular bottom mount one. If I go swan, I wont be race legal.

My "race" tires are my street tires (Vr1s). But im not too concerned with tire wear anymore. Ill be away at college, so I wont be driving it much.