skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

You should at least run a bussman . No need for lights to come up to indicate a blown fuse. If quick disconnects are required (i'm not sure why), i'd use dtm connectors

icantlearn

okay so note the "donishnotreally". I electrical taped the connectors for each wire so contact wouldn't happen. Otherwise, I used a double crimper. I can tug on the ends pretty hard and they dont budge.

way too much $ for what I need.

Again, the likelihood of a failure from a connector sperating is pretty low I would imagine. its not a high NVH environment. I took care of the uninsulated part as I said earlier.

I dont see the advantage of that box.


I know all this looks bad and ugly, but you have to remember, these were pics that were taken "along the way". Ive been poking around making small changes here and there. I would like to point out that I DID think about the possibility of the pigtails failing (adding more failure points). However the strength of the double crimps is pretty good, so im just not confident it will be a thing.

Now, here is what I will say. In all of my years of tracking, iv'e never had an electrical failure (knock on wood). So are the "quick disconnects" really necessary? Probably not. So just for the sake of simplicity, I might delete them.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

The "quick disconnects" are the problem. That's the point.

zellers88

iTrader: (1)

Wire nuts are quicklier disconnects and reusable. I suggest switching to them.

codrus

For future sanity I really recommend using a multi-pin connector and building a wiring harness. Having half a dozen wires the same color with the same connector on them will be a PITA if you ever need to disconnect them. It takes up way less space, makes for a much cleaner install, is more reliable, etc.

--Ian

afm

iTrader: (3)

I'm just happy that nobody has called the quick disconnects "spade terminals" yet

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

icantlearn

Ta daaaaaaa! And yes, I moved the front left wire away from the metal edge.

icantlearn

I love getting neg cats for no reason.

Wingman703

There's a ton of legitimate reasons your getting neg cats

icantlearn

like what? presenting a fixed issue? **** you.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

So i'm not an expert, more closer to a beginner than not but here's what i'd do differently.

• I'm not sure if exposed live terminals are bad but i'd prefer to avoid them.
• Label the wiring so I have an idea of what fuse powers what.
• Larger gauge power wire (depending on total amperage of what you're powering)
• Move it an inch away from the mount on the left so the wire is less kinked (you mentioned you already did this)
• Use a proper fuse box/pdm. Lights that come up when a fuse blows isn't a high priority to me.
  • If I wanted a quick disconnect to separate fusebox from wiring harness, a DT/DTM connector would be use
• Bundle the wires together for a cleaner look

What's the main power (brown) wire form? It looks like it came from a bundle of other wires?

icantlearn

See thats a constructive post. Not whatever bull **** was going on above.

1. They are gone now.
2. I need to figure out a system for labeling. But I know what goes where for the most part.
3. I'm not sure how to figure out what the total amperage is, so unless my current power source poses an issue, i'll probably just leave it alone.
4. Already done
5. What is the advantage to a different PDM/fuse box? What is this one lacking that is necessary? I agree the lights on this one are not necessary, I just pointed it out as a neat feature.
6. I have cloth tape en-route to take care of this.

To everyone else:
I don't get why its so hard for people to be informative rather than just **** on others. This is my first time tackling a big wiring project. I don't know squat about wiring (clearly) so i'm learning as I go. You cant expect someone to be perfect at everything, especially the first attempt. Im a 20yr old kid trying to build this car by myself, i'm sorry I dont have tons of experience with this stuff so if you see jank ****, point it out with solid reasoning/explanation and I will change it. Don't just sit there and laugh.

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

This is what i'm using for labeling.... It's not officially support and it took a couple trial and error tries but it's cheap enough to where I didn't mind.

Cloth tape, im using Tesa Tape 51036...People love this but I hate the sticky residue it leaves. Rather, I use the much more hated split loom with tape placed every 5-6 inches on the outside. It's not in the engine bay where heat is an issue so I figured why not. No nasty residue if I have to make any modifications and easy to remove.

The fuse box is just my personal preference, it's a cleaner look since you can bundle the wires together a lot easier.

For amperage, it's more of an educated guess for me. I'd check what's going on each line and google what people estimated the amperage for the devices would be. If it's just a handful of gauge lights, I wouldn't care. If you were powering the fuel pump or fans, i'd want much thicker wiring.

Wirebarn makes an excellent calculator for wire gauge and its support amperage for the length of wire.
https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html

icantlearn

Awesome post. Thank you. I actually just ordered Tesa tape 51036 earlier today. I was told it doesn't leave residue. So thats cool. When you say split loom, do you mean you only wrap the tape every 5-6 inches?

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

No, I use the cheap generic split loom off amazon (not this exact one but same concept) and then I use tesa tape every 5-6 inches so that the conduit holds close, which is probably excessive since this split loom coils itself shut on its own. Measure how thick the bundle of wire is and order the appropriate size. It's not professional but it's more than good enough.

I heard tesa tape doesn't leave a residue as well so maybe others have had better experience...But my 4 feet of wiring that I originally taped up is now all sticky so i'd say otherwise.

icantlearn

Ohhh ok. I've used that stuff when I did all the wiring the first time around (pre-cage). I believe the factory used some cloth tape for the factory dash wiring and it was very sticky and gross. Hopefully I have good luck with it.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

My recommendation for those ring terminals is to pull the plastic piece off, ensure a good crimp, then use glue lined heat shrink to secure the connection. That'll take the vibration strain off the crimp joint. Plus, it looks 1000x better.

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Removing the plastic and adding my own heat shrink for insulation often.

Wingman703

Dude, chill the **** out. You posted shoddy wiring and got shat on for posting shoddy wiring, as is the norm around here for badly done jobs.
Looks like others have started to chime in with fixes, so your covered there. Only thing I'd add is that inside the cabin your don't *need* wire covering(obviously heatshrink solder joints and do basic strain relief/standoffs). Using the plastic pipe covering isn't going to hurt anything, and if you wanted to be extra fancy and milspec you could do snakeskin, but this would require pulling apart wiring and pre-planning your wiring layout. Adel clamps will both provide vibration protection and form your wires into bundles instead of floating around chafeing on the chassis.