HomebrewYata

After the off road "learning experiences" the car sat and waited for me to get the itch again. Well, after some personal stuff I was very ready to revisit my passion(tracking). So, onto the new iteration (Version 3).


I was never happy with the power my car made. It wasn’t until I opened the ignition maps that my local tuner whipped up after my SC installation. I was running extremely retarded timing all the way to redline. I can post pics of my datalogs and/or maps if anyone is interested..

NEW PARTS:
Hawk DTC-60 Brake Pads
NAPA Blanks
Delrin Door Jams
Delrin Motor Mounts
LED Intake Signals
LRB Undertray
Garage Star Front Tow Hook
Racing Beat Header
High Temp Coating for Header
Exhaust Manifold Heat Blanket
Rear Bumper Cut/Strip/Quick Release
Goodwin Racing HF Cat
Oil Cooler
Engine Bay Strip
Kraftwerks 80mm pulley
Crank case breather
Frozen Boost BOV (Type 10)
Oil Catch Can
Boost Gauge
PS Delete
EGR Delete
MAF Delete (Bung for IAT installed)
Lexan Quarter Windows
Tekata Rear Tow Strap
Advanti Storm S1 15x9 –STREET
Hankook RS3 (225/45) –STREET
Konig "Dial in" 15x9 –TRACK
Maxxis Rc1 (245/40) -TRACK

Bumper / Cover Cut
Lexan Goodies
Frozen Boost Type 10 VTA BOV
Cork Screw






The last couple pics are from my Laguna day. Most, but not all of the "V3" parts were installed. The car was still on the base tune. Next post will be the tuning and should bring this thread nearly up to date (finally). I really want to get this thing caught up because I've been attending quite a few events and would love to share some detailed experience surrounding the part combinations!

HomebrewYata

After a few track events on new RC1 and a cleaned up engine bay, I decided to start with some serious weight reduction. The goal here is a clean 10:1 p/w ratio to run NASA TT3 class. With my current mods this will need to be adjusted but the rules are somewhat conflicting(adding more weight for a 245 100tw tire than a 40tw hoosier?). I will be in contact with the officials closer to race day.. Anyway, onto the weight reduction!

Dash and Heater are HISTORY! The total weight savings was somewhere in the 40s, but hard to say for sure because some stuff went back in..

Gutted doors and carpet. I found a nice hole to bolt in one side of the gauge cluster, the other side is held on with zip ties working in tandem. The center piece you see in the photo above acts as a sort of gauge pod / switch board(can't see the blank piece of abs from the photo) but more on that later when I get switch crazy... Keeping the carpet on the trans tunnel as this car needs to be driven to/from the track without burning me.

HomebrewYata

The OEM hardtop is nice, but has been a point of internal debate since its purchase. The aero and chassis rigidity argument never really outweighed the extra 40lbs on the top of my car. So I sold it and picked up a DG Motorsports RACE Hardtop!

With the lexan in place, the DG weighs the same as a treasure coast piece. I chose this because lexan comes pre-installed and I saved on shipping (SoCal-NorCal vs Florida-NorCal). The piece was packaged well and there weren't any big imperfections in the fiberglass. DG also threw in some rear brackets to compliment my GarageStar top/side brackets.

HomebrewYata

After a long battle with sub-standard timing and fuel maps, I finally got around to renting a Dyno. Lucky for me, I found a shop in Sacramento that rents their Dyno for $130 / hour. Here's what happened that day..

Came in early and got the car strapped down. After just a few pulls we settled on this timing map. The tech was pretty sketched out helping me as tampering with the ECU isn't all that kosher in California. Good thing this isn't a street car and all videos were filmed in Mexico!

Final VE Table, hitting 11:5(ish) AFR all the way to Redline. Note: MegaLogViewer showed my sensors picking up 11:1 but his sniffer said 12:1, so we made adjustments under the assumption both were right and split the difference.

HomebrewYata

Final Numbers: 200whp / 170wtq on 91 oct. The dyno is a "SuperFlow" and I've never heard of that brand before. At the end of the day a dyno is just another tool, however I asked all numbers be corrected to reflect dynojet as they're the most common.

Results: 200whp / 170wtq on 91 octAm I happy with the results? Yes and no. I'd like to see what more timing and leaner AFR would do, however my tuning confidence isn't very high.. For now though, 200whp on what I've come to believe as conservative timing and AFR maps isn't too shabby. Coupled with the weight reduction this car should be a blast on the track! Also, YAY LINEAR POWER BAND!!! No delay or lag, the power is instantaneous on corner exit. Track videos will follow, comparing old power and weight with the new stuff.. For now though, I couldn't be happier with how she's turning out!

Version 3 in its entirety

HomebrewYata

The following videos have been taken the last few months, each with different upgrades. Building this car and testing it after each big modification has been very rewarding. More videos to come, subscribe to keep updated!!

Video 1:
Track: Thunderhill West
Time: 1:28.5
Mods: Pre-Diet so approx 2150lbs (plus driver) and Pre-dyno (approx 130whp) / No Aero / Fading 225 RC1
Notes: Slow
Link to video:
Video 2:
Track: Thunderhill West
Time: 1:25.5 with passenger
Mods: Approx 2050 lbs (plus occupants) and 200whp / APR GTC-200 Wing / Fresh 245 RC1
Notes: Need no passenger mod
Link to video:
Video 3:
Track: Sonoma GP
Time: 1:54.6 no passenger
Mods: Approx 2050lbs. (Plus Driver) and 200whp / APR GTC-200 Wing / Fresh 245 RC1
Notes: First time at Sonoma in the dry
Link to video:

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

Wow, sonoma seems like a bumpy track

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the vids and pics!

Since the Rotrex is a centrifugal supercharger, it is weird that your torque and hp is falling off towards redline.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

The engine bay pic isn't loading, but I don't think he has a flat top IM, or the 00-01 head. Maybe that's why it starts falling off, even as boost approaches maximum.