Ordered:
New gaskets for everything VVT related
Pesky 1/8" BSPP banjo bolt to block
New OEM exhaust Studs/nuts
O-rings galore for Oil/VVT stuff
DIYautotune MS3 Knock Module


Looking for:
Aluminum welder for bung
pigtail for knock sensor
help tuning



Should I bother painting the assembled short block, or just leave it flakey and as is. I didn't have time to paint before machine took it in and balanced everything. I may reuse the same water feed from the back of the head as I previously had instead of building another line to the side of the block. Not sure.

Still need to assemble a new oil line, so that requires fittings.

 

Reading Jeffs thread it seems that a sandwich plate is just as good as a pan temp sensor, and easier.

 

Then I need a new sandwich adapter. Mine is sealed by a thin o-ring which was prone to leaking.

I was thinking of an oil cooler in the future and wasn't sure if I were comfortable with stacking endless adapters. heat exchanger (remove this?) - > sandwich plate - > oil cooler plate

 

Supercore came in with aluminum bearing housing. Assembled it to the old exhaust housing from the blown 6258. Turbo is back in business. Waiting on some hose ends, gaskets, and some other studs/nuts from mazda. As soon as I get an engine stand, I'm going to start assembling.

 

Awww yissss!

Do you still have the blown center from the old one? I'm curious what the weight difference is.

 

I do have both both. But there are bits and pieces missing off the old. FAB says there's about a 5lb difference.

 

That's significant. The B1 frame EFR with the steel core is not a lightweight. I'm glad my manifold is pretty beefy.

 

So it's begun...again


Transferred the Boundary Engineering pump and Cast water pump


Eagle Rods, Supertech pistons, ACL race bearings, Cranks scraper, fully balanced rotating assembly, new seals everywhere, AN fittings on block for oil/water to turbo, oil port tapped from 1/8" BSPT to BSPP for banjo bolt to supply VVT solenoid


Head was cleaned and cut for +1mm for both intake and inconel exhaust valves. Supertech dual spring valvetrain with titanium retainers. Installed new cam seals, replaced the manifold studs.

 

Once again, this thread delivers. Good luck mang!

 

engine's looking glorious

 

I love the non-potato photos. Looks awesome, can't wait to see it going.

 

I don't have the time nor the temperatures to paint the block. I'm leaving it natural and just want to get it running. I'm waiting for a shop to get back to me on the bung welding for oil pan before flipping the motor around for the head to be installed.


What is the consensus on cylinder walls. Clean off all grease/oil and make it bone dry for break in or leave it slightly lubricated?

Right now some assembly lube is literally applied to help suspend dust

 

I think you should try and paint the block. It only took me a day to do it, including cleaning. And my motor had been rallycrossed. It stops rust and looks way cleaner.

 

Never leave the walls bone dry.
Clean all the old gunk off, then lightly lube the walls before throwing in the pistons

 

Pistons are installed already, there's just some assembly lube slathered on the walls. Give it a good wipe down to take the excess off and hope for the best (but not fully degrease)?

I think the rings are already lubricated, but I just didn't feel confident about the amount of residual oil left in the cylinders. "Bob" said he did this to trap whatever dust might collect before assembly even though it was bagged. This is the same shop that assembled Soviets miracle motor.

 

Does your IJ crank scraper contact the windage tray on the backside? Like, have you set the tray on the block yet?

 

I harvested it off the previous motor, it looked like it cleared. This time around, I did make note to grind the corner a small bit by the rear main seal.

I'll be shipping your oil line today.

 

Humm... mine seems to contact the OEM windage tray on the backside, to the point where the bolt holes in the pan rail are ever so slightly off. Its going to make installing the pan and tray a bastard unless I subtly bend the tray to change the radius, but that sounds like all kinds of fail. Not sure what to do here

 

Is there some wiggle room if you loosen the main studs and try to push the frame of the scraper in closer to the center of the block? IIRC you have the Teflon version right? you may need to trim more. How bad of a radius? doesn't seem too bad except they are dissimilar metals and you don't want the tray to start wearing/vibrating into your pan, and introducing some new aluminum goodies into your oil

I leave two bolts threaded on the oil pan flange in the reverse direction to align and hold the windage tray in place. Once the oil pan is on and bolted down everywhere else, I back them out and replace them right side down.

 

So I think I might have overtorqued the oil pan. The rear oil pan seal, while in, is bulging a bit from the keyed area. I don't know if it'll cause a huge problem, it's still seated but I just don't know. I'd like to avoid taking the whole oil pan off and spending a day cleaning again.

Maybe I take a picture later. I'm tired of this (which is making me impatient)

Head is already on and torqued. Motor is going to be difficult to flip around