Turbo Smurfette - Build in progress (slow)
11-23-2015, 01:35 PM
#341
mkturbo.com
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Their Dyno seems to be a "heartbreaker" but it doesn't matter as I have nothing to bench the gains against. I don't know if they've tuned any Miata's in stock trim. I think there was a dyno day recently, I'll have to poke around the local group.
As far as their service/review of PTuning:
From what I've read, they seem to be a bit pricey in terms of parts/labor custom jobs. Tuning seems on par with the NOVA area, but Ken knows WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more than I ever could about megasquirt. I was just in for an alignment and he spent two hours going over my map and explaining what things meant, why you do this or that, how this could change. As though this is what he did because it was fun puzzle for him.
Every correspondence I've ever received from them was concise, and friendly. It made me comfortable enough to take my car there for a retune than other "Miata" shops in the area.
Like every shop, you hear stories. But not only did they ballast the driver side and dial in the alignment exact as I prescribed without any ± values, they went out of their way to help me locate and isolate other issues while the car was on the lift. My brake lines are apparently too short when steering lock to lock. I had an oil leak from the pressure sender. Little things, but nothing that they had to go out of their way for.
They walked me through the entire process of their tuning and setup of the vehicle down to the drivability and waiting for several cold mornings to dial in cold start and idle. To calibrating the knock sensor after tuning was done to ensure that the signal that was being read was noise vs knock. They called in to give me progress on benchmarks and made me aware of the timeline with each update and what they planned on doing.
As far as my transactions with them, I'm satisfied until proven otherwise.
As far as their service/review of PTuning:
From what I've read, they seem to be a bit pricey in terms of parts/labor custom jobs. Tuning seems on par with the NOVA area, but Ken knows WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY more than I ever could about megasquirt. I was just in for an alignment and he spent two hours going over my map and explaining what things meant, why you do this or that, how this could change. As though this is what he did because it was fun puzzle for him.
Every correspondence I've ever received from them was concise, and friendly. It made me comfortable enough to take my car there for a retune than other "Miata" shops in the area.
Like every shop, you hear stories. But not only did they ballast the driver side and dial in the alignment exact as I prescribed without any ± values, they went out of their way to help me locate and isolate other issues while the car was on the lift. My brake lines are apparently too short when steering lock to lock. I had an oil leak from the pressure sender. Little things, but nothing that they had to go out of their way for.
They walked me through the entire process of their tuning and setup of the vehicle down to the drivability and waiting for several cold mornings to dial in cold start and idle. To calibrating the knock sensor after tuning was done to ensure that the signal that was being read was noise vs knock. They called in to give me progress on benchmarks and made me aware of the timeline with each update and what they planned on doing.
As far as my transactions with them, I'm satisfied until proven otherwise.
Once they started looking into moving and becoming a full service performance shop I pushed it heavily. I remember talking to them about hoy they wanted to build the dyno room, so that it was climate and sound controlled. It was ages ahead of what any other dyno shops in the NoVA area could offer. Ken is definitely a good tuner.
The only negative things I have heard were back when they first opened. There were a few people with miata's that got alignments and they did not tighten the bolts enough. From what I understand they quickly fixed the people car and started torqueing the alignments bolts tighter and no problems since then. Prices are a bit high, but their quality shows off why.
One day I am hoping to get up to NoVA for a weekend and go out and get on the dyno. Will probably go with my friend and his late 60's Camaro and see who can make more power. If it happens I will probably do some sort of meet there that day. Maybe even an MKTurbo dyno day.
They will go above and beyond for customers, but they do charge appropriately for it. It is honestly one of the few shops that I would consider having do any work on any of my miata's if I could not do it myself. At one point in time if you were out of town and getting major service done, they would even put you up in a hotel for the night.
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11-23-2015, 01:38 PM
#342
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Let me know, I'll attend an MKTurbo meet! Why do they seem relatively underrepresented in the area? Is it because they are "All the way in Manassas?"
Probably just a different automotive demographic? They where big on scion at first iirc? But they've tapped into the Honda and Subaru scenes.
Probably just a different automotive demographic? They where big on scion at first iirc? But they've tapped into the Honda and Subaru scenes.
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11-30-2015, 10:52 PM
#353
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Yea, it's always for sale, I just don't know what a reasonable price is.
So come to find out, the knock sensor does not register in Tunerstudio. So things that could be wrong:
-The knock module is not installed correctly
-the knock sensor is not wired in correctly
-the knock sensor is faulty
I'm giving Braineack the benefit of the doubt since he knows these things back and fourth. I will try switching the ground to a sensor ground right back to the MS3x instead of chassis ground. I'll try to pick up another knock sensor. Criminy I'm tired of these wiring shennanigans
The IACV may be getting stuck which is why I've been having such difficulty with idle settings. This makes sense. Currently the tune is set to open loop and is very stable. I got a spare IACV (used) and will swap some day.
In the mean time I have ordered parts and am expecting more coming in:
V8Roadster tubular control arms
NB Rear Subframe (freshly powdercoated)
NB Front subframe
NB steering rack (hopefully)
NB uprights all around
ARP wheel studs
949 Hybrid motor mount kit
So come to find out, the knock sensor does not register in Tunerstudio. So things that could be wrong:
-The knock module is not installed correctly
-the knock sensor is not wired in correctly
-the knock sensor is faulty
I'm giving Braineack the benefit of the doubt since he knows these things back and fourth. I will try switching the ground to a sensor ground right back to the MS3x instead of chassis ground. I'll try to pick up another knock sensor. Criminy I'm tired of these wiring shennanigans
The IACV may be getting stuck which is why I've been having such difficulty with idle settings. This makes sense. Currently the tune is set to open loop and is very stable. I got a spare IACV (used) and will swap some day.
In the mean time I have ordered parts and am expecting more coming in:
V8Roadster tubular control arms
NB Rear Subframe (freshly powdercoated)
NB Front subframe
NB steering rack (hopefully)
NB uprights all around
ARP wheel studs
949 Hybrid motor mount kit
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11-30-2015, 11:10 PM
#354
FWIW I had a dead on arrival Knock module on my MS3 PRO. Ended up testing everything possible, then hooking a 3.5mm audio jack from my laptop to plan a sine wave sweep into the knock module, and then piggy-backed a set of ear phones directly to the knock sensor wires and listened myself as I the sine wave sweep was transmitted into the wires and the MS reported 0.0% the entire time.
Then mailed it to DIY and they confirmed it was bad, and then replaced it.
Got it back, dead on arrival again. Tested everything. Solder looked good. Then pulled out a 10x magnifcation and looked at the solder, it looked like **** actually. Sent it back AGAIN. They resoldered the board, tested it and emailed me a log of it working, got it back, been working every since.
Also, FWIW, if you knock windowing has negative numbers, there was (probably still is) a bug where it will report 0.0% all the time. So you have to run 0 or a higher number. Reverant pointed that one out to me, I reported it, they ignored my email to fix it.
And finally, I have a new/never used/in the wrapper EFR high boost can I'm not using.
Then mailed it to DIY and they confirmed it was bad, and then replaced it.
Got it back, dead on arrival again. Tested everything. Solder looked good. Then pulled out a 10x magnifcation and looked at the solder, it looked like **** actually. Sent it back AGAIN. They resoldered the board, tested it and emailed me a log of it working, got it back, been working every since.
Also, FWIW, if you knock windowing has negative numbers, there was (probably still is) a bug where it will report 0.0% all the time. So you have to run 0 or a higher number. Reverant pointed that one out to me, I reported it, they ignored my email to fix it.
And finally, I have a new/never used/in the wrapper EFR high boost can I'm not using.
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11-30-2015, 11:24 PM
#355
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****.
I was in Texas last week, I'm sad I didn't pack my car in my checked luggage so you could scope it out for me.
In the end, I didn't end up using the high pressure can I had ordered. As it was explained to me, the wastegate should have no issues as far as what max boost is seen. The boost control solenoid is designed to switch ports at the designated frequency. When the solenoid is off, boost pressure is sent directly to the wastegate and so should never see more than the spring pressure. When the solenoid is on, the wastegate and atmospheric ports are linked instead while the reference port is shut, similar to having the wastegate seemingly be disconnected. If there's a situation where the wastegate is seeing 19+psi, then there will be more issues than just the wastegate.
I'm afraid to ask scott for any more help. Wonder if just sending it off to DIY would be appropriate.
I was in Texas last week, I'm sad I didn't pack my car in my checked luggage so you could scope it out for me.
In the end, I didn't end up using the high pressure can I had ordered. As it was explained to me, the wastegate should have no issues as far as what max boost is seen. The boost control solenoid is designed to switch ports at the designated frequency. When the solenoid is off, boost pressure is sent directly to the wastegate and so should never see more than the spring pressure. When the solenoid is on, the wastegate and atmospheric ports are linked instead while the reference port is shut, similar to having the wastegate seemingly be disconnected. If there's a situation where the wastegate is seeing 19+psi, then there will be more issues than just the wastegate.
I'm afraid to ask scott for any more help. Wonder if just sending it off to DIY would be appropriate.
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11-30-2015, 11:30 PM
#356
****.
I was in Texas last week, I'm sad I didn't pack my car in my checked luggage so you could scope it out for me.
In the end, I didn't end up using the high pressure can I had ordered. As it was explained to me, the wastegate should have no issues as far as what max boost is seen. The boost control solenoid is designed to switch ports at the designated frequency. When the solenoid is off, boost pressure is sent directly to the wastegate and so should never see more than the spring pressure. When the solenoid is on, the wastegate and atmospheric ports are linked instead while the reference port is shut, similar to having the wastegate seemingly be disconnected. If there's a situation where the wastegate is seeing 19+psi, then there will be more issues than just the wastegate.
I'm afraid to ask scott for any more help. Wonder if just sending it off to DIY would be appropriate.
I was in Texas last week, I'm sad I didn't pack my car in my checked luggage so you could scope it out for me.
In the end, I didn't end up using the high pressure can I had ordered. As it was explained to me, the wastegate should have no issues as far as what max boost is seen. The boost control solenoid is designed to switch ports at the designated frequency. When the solenoid is off, boost pressure is sent directly to the wastegate and so should never see more than the spring pressure. When the solenoid is on, the wastegate and atmospheric ports are linked instead while the reference port is shut, similar to having the wastegate seemingly be disconnected. If there's a situation where the wastegate is seeing 19+psi, then there will be more issues than just the wastegate.
I'm afraid to ask scott for any more help. Wonder if just sending it off to DIY would be appropriate.
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12-13-2015, 12:08 PM
#358
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I just ordered some bits to revamp the fuel system. New fuel lines for everyone! Just need to get fuel pump and FPR. Flex Fuel by spring time!
I had the awesome opportunity to meet up with forum member lvw yesterday and picked up a diff I could use to rebuild with the 3.63 ring and pinion. I'll have to drive around and get some quotes. It was really great to talk and geek out over miata stuff. It makes me want to meet more like minded folks over bbq or some huge install day.
Does anyone add zerk fittings to v8Roadster control arms?
Future works
FUEL: fuel rail, lines, fpr, flex sensor, fuel pump
SUSPENSION: NB front/rear subframes, v8Roadster control arms, rebuilt/rebearing NB uprights
DIFF: OSGiken + 3.63 final drive
ENGINE: Oil cooler
BODY: rust repair/new fenders
BEER: Weienstepaner Hefeweissbier
I had the awesome opportunity to meet up with forum member lvw yesterday and picked up a diff I could use to rebuild with the 3.63 ring and pinion. I'll have to drive around and get some quotes. It was really great to talk and geek out over miata stuff. It makes me want to meet more like minded folks over bbq or some huge install day.
Does anyone add zerk fittings to v8Roadster control arms?
Future works
FUEL: fuel rail, lines, fpr, flex sensor, fuel pump
SUSPENSION: NB front/rear subframes, v8Roadster control arms, rebuilt/rebearing NB uprights
DIFF: OSGiken + 3.63 final drive
ENGINE: Oil cooler
BODY: rust repair/new fenders
BEER: Weienstepaner Hefeweissbier
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12-13-2015, 12:37 PM
#359
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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What fuel system bits did you get. Going AN lines? Or just new rubbers. What fuel pump/afpr
Excited to see more people running flex fuel, I've got a sensor I'm installing soon.
You should add zerks to the arms if you are running poly or delrin bushings. If you went full baller and got the spherical arms probably not as necessary.
Excited to see more people running flex fuel, I've got a sensor I'm installing soon.
You should add zerks to the arms if you are running poly or delrin bushings. If you went full baller and got the spherical arms probably not as necessary.
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12-13-2015, 12:43 PM
#360
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What fuel system bits did you get. Going AN lines? Or just new rubbers. What fuel pump/afpr
Excited to see more people running flex fuel, I've got a sensor I'm installing soon.
You should add zerks to the arms if you are running poly or delrin bushings. If you went full baller and got the spherical arms probably not as necessary.
Excited to see more people running flex fuel, I've got a sensor I'm installing soon.
You should add zerks to the arms if you are running poly or delrin bushings. If you went full baller and got the spherical arms probably not as necessary.
I'm replacing with PTFE coated AN lines. Looking at the DW300, FuelLab 818 filter and maybe a Radium Engineering FPR since it just takes the drop in Bosch regulators. If you need more fuel pressure, there's an OEM 4 bar you can drop in.
These are the Poly busing arms, but not all the bushings are split. So on some I'd have to drill through and align. I'll do some info digging to see what size and placement.
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