I think Begi stopped coating because they couldn't get it right.


Before the diff is built, is it a big deal using a new Mazda Distance Piece over the Weir solid pinion spacer? My gut says no, but I feel like if I'm dropping dosh on this OSGiken and 3.63 rear, if there's benefit then it'll justify a $50 investment

 

By that logic, they should stop everything

 

 

Hey at least the hoses were cut the right length.

 

Looks like I won't be getting the Solid Pinion Spacer after all. Diff is already done and built.

God damn customer service and one day turn around time.

 

That's like, a terrible problem, yea? lol.

If only most shops were that on top of it.

 

Yea, their courtesy left no room for impulsiveness and mind changing.

 

hahahahhaa

those jerks

 

 

Gotta get the old busings air hammered out of the diff. I ordered the rest of the AN fittings and lines for my fuel upgrade.

Also ordered an ACT XTG6 clutch to replace the Competition Stage 4. The light weight flywheel in the car has been resurfaced once already. Should I have it surfaced again or is there a particular threshold measurement to determine how much use it'll have left?

Or should I just invest in another flyweel....

Zerk fittings are coming in next week. I need to get wheel bearings and hubs for the knuckles then the v8roadster suspension bits are ready to go in.

Oh I need to get a steering rack, forgot about that

 

I didn't get a full understanding of your thoughts on the 6-puck Comp Stg 4 clutch/pp. I've got one still in the box that I'm about to put in for my 350whp build. Bryan at Fab9 seems to have had good luck with it, but I haven't seen too many other reviews.

 

Clutch works fine, but it's starting to slip in third under load. Or I think it is. I had a friend who had theirs for 5000 miles and it's roasted.

I just ordered a new clutch to have on hand in case it finally fails. I have another 6 speed I want to switch to and will replace the clutch with a higher torque rating if/when I run Flex Fuel.

The ACT XTG6 is advertised to hold 400 ft-lbs torque. I'm sure I'm going to hate my life driving this to work

 

i did

 

Contact the flywheel manufacturer. Each one will have a spec. The clutch shop I had my **** done at also told me how much could be taken off

 

Is there a wiser choice for the application? I suppose looking at the everyday target torque the car makes will open more options like the FM happy meal 2, but I just don't want the clutch to fry if running some blend with e85.




I have to really work hard at remembering which one I got. My memory isn't what it used to be when I was a young whipper snapper

 

Twin disc

Shouldn't it say on it? When you pull it out?

 

Will the twin disc actually be any better with engagement?

There where no marks last time I removed it. It looks like an ACT streetlite/FM 10.5 lb/competition clutch 10.3 lb flywheel. It's probably the same exact flywheel for all three

 

Last twin disk I drove was also harsh in traffic and daily driving.

But still better than the xtg6 junk

 

FML

Maybe I'll just get Happy Meal 2 and forget about e85

 

if e85 is not inconvenient for you to run, why not just keep midrange the same and just taper boost up toward redline? I've done this plenty of times before to preserve clutch/transmission/rear end - you get warp speed top end without overwhelming the clutch at high load