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Time to go clutch shopping. |
What numbers did it put down?
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It didn't. It slipped even in 4th and 3rd gear.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448139)
FM2 clutch is slipping on the dyno. Time to start thinking about twin disk or kmiata BMW trans which would mean that brand new v8r PPF will go unused.
Or maybe just start building the next iteration and let this setup run its course.
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448151)
Vlad gave me too many torques
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oh shit. That's crazy. Well I guess it's safe to say that it's putting down much more power than what that clutch is rated for. At what boost levels did it let go?
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It held at 400, so...
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I guess 93 Octane life for me then.
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You are making a ton of torque. I think the best ACT one goes to 405, what other options are there? The BMW setup might be the way to go, whats the beefyiest clutch for that setup?
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Geez this thing is wild. Hit me up if you want to chat about clutch setups. We already have one guy making 600whp, 479wtq and his E46 clutch kit is holding just fine.
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I can't upload them here, but perhaps someone can open these Dynojet files?
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...mdfWk5WMkt5SVU 0 and 1 are fourth gear pulls. 2 is third gear. Not sure what Infos this will tell us but meh, data. |
Originally Posted by KMiata
(Post 1448208)
Geez this thing is wild. Hit me up if you want to chat about clutch setups. We already have one guy making 600whp, 479wtq and his E46 clutch kit is holding just fine.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448219)
I can't upload them here, but perhaps someone can open these Dynojet files?
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...mdfWk5WMkt5SVU 0 and 1 are fourth gear pulls. 2 is third gear. Not sure what Infos this will tell us but meh, data. |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448219)
fourth gear pulls
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I did all of my pulls on 5th since 4th is usually the gear that breaks in the 6 speed.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448220)
I'm just having to figure a way to solid mount my diff. Otherwise I guess I'll have to give up my OSGiken for a getrag.
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pretty hard to break a gear on a single clean pull, even at 400 and even in 4th
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Originally Posted by KMiata
(Post 1448247)
We're working on an off-the-shelf solid diff mount. For now, there are a few ways to do if you're willing to get a bit creative. However, the Getrag swap does give you a bunch of dirt cheap desirable ratio options for high HP cars.
Any idea about the speedo stuff for NA? |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448278)
Any idea about the speedo stuff for NA?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448278)
Any idea about the speedo stuff for NA?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448157)
Time to go clutch shopping. Hey that is Moore's automotive. I dynoed there about 8/9 years ago. |
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1448308)
Hey that is Moore's automotive. I dynoed there about 8/9 years ago.
Unless Shibby loans me a spot :3 |
Wow I gotta raise the prices I charge for clutch swaps lulz
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448361)
Yea it way closer than PTuning, it's just down the street from where I grew up. Moore quoted $660 for the clutch change since it's going to be winter and I don't have a driveway.
Unless Shibby loans me a spot :3 |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1448361)
Yea it way closer than PTuning, it's just down the street from where I grew up. Moore quoted $660 for the clutch change since it's going to be winter and I don't have a driveway.
Unless Shibby loans me a spot :3 |
So for the meantime, I went ahead and got the 949Racing twin disk. It was so light, I thought for a moment that they forgot the flywheel.
Down the line, I'm pretty sure I'll be picking up the KMiata trans adapter kit and even though I was dead set on the ZF 6-speed to compliment the 3.63 PEM rear end now re-crunching through the gear calculator it seems like the G260 5 speed would be a pretty sweet trans stretching out some power. I just would just feel more confident once the speedometer solution is sorted and I find another rear subframe to modify for OEM diff sans PPF. Pretty sure I'll be putting the car up for winter before I'm able to break the clutch in for another dyno pull, it's getting real cold out. I wanted to do a before and after on the intercooler piping from 2" to whatever it ends up being down the line. Some small tinkering jobs over winter, probably going to commit to deleting A/C now. I have a normal car, it'll only suck for next years MATG. I smell coolant so I want to inspect the supermiata radiator. Pull the bumper off and redo some wiring/start playing with sheet metal/sheet plastic, pop rivets, rivnuts and ducting. I noticed a bit of a sheen on my last oil change. When do people start to get worried about bearings? |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1450532)
So for the meantime, I went ahead and got the 949Racing twin disk. It was so light, I thought for a moment that they forgot the flywheel.
Down the line, I'm pretty sure I'll be picking up the KMiata trans adapter kit and even though I was dead set on the ZF 6-speed to compliment the 3.63 PEM rear end now re-crunching through the gear calculator it seems like the G260 5 speed would be a pretty sweet trans stretching out some power. I just would just feel more confident once the speedometer solution is sorted and I find another rear subframe to modify for OEM diff sans PPF. Pretty sure I'll be putting the car up for winter before I'm able to break the clutch in for another dyno pull, it's getting real cold out. I wanted to do a before and after on the intercooler piping from 2" to whatever it ends up being down the line. Some small tinkering jobs over winter, probably going to commit to deleting A/C now. I have a normal car, it'll only suck for next years MATG. I smell coolant so I want to inspect the supermiata radiator. Pull the bumper off and redo some wiring/start playing with sheet metal/sheet plastic, pop rivets, rivnuts and ducting. I noticed a bit of a sheen on my last oil change. When do people start to get worried about bearings? |
It might have been a dirty pan with a dash of paranoia. You know when you break in a motor and you change the oil out, it has a metallic sparkle/stratification. Like that but on a much more muted level. There was some contrast in there as opposed to the deep homogeneous brown we come to love and expect. This was the first oil change after having run nearly two months on E85. The oil smelled a bit of moonshine. (Do folks decrease oil change intervals on ethanol?)
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Yes decrease intervals on e, esp if you don't drive the car hard or often.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1450543)
It might have been a dirty pan with a dash of paranoia. You know when you break in a motor and you change the oil out, it has a metallic sparkle/stratification. Like that but on a much more muted level. There was some contrast in there as opposed to the deep homogeneous brown we come to love and expect. This was the first oil change after having run nearly two months on E85. The oil smelled a bit of moonshine. (Do folks decrease oil change intervals on ethanol?)
I have a mercedes C63 that I change the oil on every 5K miles, and it usually shows 5x the metal my miata engine does if not more, and it seems to run fine. I change my oil ever 1K miles or so. I previously did this with cheap oil. I now run a good synthetic, probably still gonna do 1K changes. I hooked up the PCV and a catchcan, and am going to see how the oil looks/smells. Before at 1K it had an E85 smell to it but was pretty clean since I never put many miles on the oil. |
How often? F(time, miles)?
The oil was fresh the day of the first e85 tuning regiment. Then I changed it before dyno time. All those logs and daily driving/sitting when away. Catch can (two - 10AN hoses into one can) condensate smells of ethanol but is milky foam. Oil smelled of ethanol. I'll just cop it up to normal wear and tear but good to know as I'm new to the e85 experience. Now chugging away happily on pump for winter. |
I previously used castrol GTX which was about 20/oil change including a mazda filter. So I did every 3 months or 1k miles, whichever comes first. I have a huge oil cooler and now if I drag race it doesn't hurt the oil too bad. Before putting that cooler on, I could do fresh oil thursday, race friday, and saturday the oil was hammered so I'd change it again. Now it holds up much better so I do the 3 months/1k miles.
PCV is supposed to help extend oil change intervals, FWIW. I didn't run it for years, but am trying it now to see if it makes any difference. |
on my street cars I run rotella t6 and change every 3k
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T6 every 3K with a PCV
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I don't have a PCV, can is VTA.
T6/3k is the recipe the car has lived under so far with this engine. I guess resume SOP. |
Hi, I’m sorry to hear that your clutch started slipping right when you needed it most. You can check a couple things to rule them out as possible causes before moving to removing the transmission. First, check to make sure the clutch pedal is still adjusted properly per the FM installation instructions. As the disc wears, sometimes a readjustment is needed and if it’s not adjusted properly will make the clutch slip and wear prematurely. The adjustment procedure starts at step 13 - https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...structions.pdf Next, make sure to inspect the slave cylinder. Pull the boot that is on the pushrod off the body of the cylinder and check the inside for fluid. If the inside of the boot is wet, the slave cylinder is on its way out. If after adjusting the pedal, you find that the transmission needs to come out to inspect the clutch, then next step is to contact Competition Clutch through their warranty/support website - https://support.competitionclutch.com/ . Click on ‘New Support Ticket’ and fill in the necessary information. Give a description and attach pictures as well. This is the quickest way for you to get help. If you have any issues at all going through Competition Clutch, please let us know. Competition Clutch should take care of things from there. Feel free to keep me in the loop and let me know if you have questions or need anything else! Eric -Tech/Mechanic - 04 MSM I followed these instructions shortly after install a year ago, but I guess my clutch has aged with use? I'll check my slave too. I'd be pretty embarrassed if I booked dyno time and it did it again. Then I'd be out another some funds and would back to square one. If this transmission is coming down, the twin disk is going in whether or not Competition Clutch warrant's it. |
Had to block up my front bumper a bit since a state trooper cited me for failure to display tags. It's the same trooper that gave me a warning for speeding when I was logging for Vlad instead of throwing me in jail. He remembered my car, asked if I had been driving slower and said my car smells like alcohol.
Just threw a thing on, and got it dismissed. I don't like it, but Virginia. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6db0595418.jpg The car is scheduled for a clutch change early December. Shibby offered to help out but with holidays and unknown TDY schedule for work coming up back in Seattle, I just want it done. After break in, will try to cycle back to e85 and redyno for glory. Then sending the intercooler off for inlet / outlet modification. Among other projects like: ducting, wiring, and A/C removal. Also looking at getting a quickjack but will need to find accomodations for storing it before I commit. May turn the underside if my front porch into a shed come spring. |
Can you put it up any higher? Like between the DRL's? Maybe curve it a bit to fit?
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Maybe if I use the bottom holes to mount; but bracket will def be visible. I can also flip the bracket upside down and mount the plate real low, like bottom of lip level.
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Seriously, drive over to Scott's. Give him cash. Go to Ace hardware with him, and he will build you a better bracket.
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This means nothing, but I saw it and thought of your magnificent car:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...382e7b8a1e.jpg |
It's wonderful.
Nothing new to report, clutch will be next week. I'm about to ease off and swap to winter tires soon and put the car up for some work. Bought myself a QuickJack 3500slx and hope to redo some wires and create ducting over the winter. I have a credit roll over for Summit Point that I need to use next year. Start breaking parts. |
HALP!
Hey Twin Disk users, quick question.... I know light weight flywheels have a bunch of noise associated but I just picked my car up after having the clutch swapped out and it rumbles on decel, partial throttle. Normal? I am going to park the car for the rest of the week and check to make sure the driveshaft/diff bolts are snugged....then check PPF alignment. It goes away with the clutch pedal in. But at highway speed when feathering the throttle it'll feels and sound like I'm driving over rumble strips. One year old slipping Flyin Miata Happy Meal Level 2: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d95f979851.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c84b7f8c9.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c9cd49ba3.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...12a857ee0b.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd1c5b6e22.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...32bdd54f21.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...896fc13986.jpg |
Is it just one clunk or multiple?
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Not even a clunk. You know when you start driving off the road and hit rumble strips. That's what it feels like. ONLY when decel with partial throttle.
NOT under load NOT when full decel without throttle input NOT when clutch is depressed in NOT when idling NOT when driving at slow speed, only noticed on highway |
That flywheel has seen better days.
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Yes but overall that clutch still has tons of life on it, which means it was simply overpowered and not defective or worn :)
as for your other question: seems like something is wrong. the twin disks I've driven are loud, chattery, and very unfriendly, but I never heard or felt vibrations like you're describing. Dunno |
Yea, competition clutch recommended changing the disk at 0.23", there was plenty of life left. It's no longer in warranty, Flyin Miata popcorned me to Competition Clutch directly and I'll be sending it in for them to assess. If they just agree that it was overpowered, then I doubt I have any option of reimbursement or replacement, partial or otherwise.
It's just funny because it was mentioned FM used in on an in house 450whp car without issues, along with TNTUBA having used it for two seasons and that's some hard launching abuse. I expected to break my trans before slipping the clutch. Driving home on the twin disk wasn't that bad. It's engagement after the adjustment protocol feels a bit higher than im used to, and it's as though it's fully disengaged by 1/3 pedal depression. It didn't chatter as bad as my old Stage 4 6puck competition clutch which was a nightmare. |
The place that installed the clutch offered to tow it, diagnose and repair whatever the issue may be at no charge. I'll update Saturday.
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That's service right there.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1455711)
and it's as though it's fully disengaged by 1/3 pedal depression.
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Just FYI - if you end up deciding the twin disk is too light 949 has a 12.7 lb "street" replacement flywheel they sell for them now. I haven't seen anyone mention it on here before (might have just missed it) but noticed it on their site. I've got a twin disk also but motor is out and probably won't get to try it out till spring.
Replacement flywheel for SuperMiata 7.25" Race Clutch |
I actually had seen that, and didn't know if it could be subbed out. Does one have to buy the clutch, then the additional flywheel? It still felt great. More affirmative pedal effort, but modulating was fine and not any worse than the FM2 in terms of drivability. It is loads better than the CC Stage 4 sprung 6 puck I first had. I hate that clutch so bad. I was shocked to find out that FM and 949 sources their products from them; but in the end consider me swayed as they've been great.
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All set, they rotated the driveshaft to diff flange, checked the PPF alignment and it's all sorted.
Snow tires on and will just chug away this season in either the Mazda 3 and some light duty miata time to break the clutch in. I have a new VVT head freshly built, tomei cams, and SUB. Debating if it's even worth putting on this block as I want to enjoy the tune that's on it, or just to build a side motor. Or sell. The Flyin' Miata Level 2 clutch has been shipped back to Competition Clutch for diagnosis. My Supermiata crossflow has a leak somewhere. I noticed coolant pooling up by the fins/end tank on the lower passenger side. Break that down and figure out why, maybe see if it's able to repaired. |
Did I miss something? Why are you messing with a new head?
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+1 for side motor #ALLOFIT build
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Originally Posted by miataman04
(Post 1456662)
Did I miss something? Why are you messing with a new head?
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He has a disease. Like the rest of us :D
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Yea, the addiction is too real to the point that I'm tempted to simply sell the head and call it done. Anything more and I'm looking stickier tires and wider wheels which means body work. Avoid.
I'm helping my boss with his factory five stuff now. He gutted a subie wagon and needs help refreshing the motor. |
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