You could clea rance the back of the fan with a 2" sanding drum on a die grinder if you have enough material in the fan. That's what I did with the volvo fan. I'm pretty sure there is a flow equation for space between the fan and radiator but that is probably way more in depth than we need to go.

My testing showed 3/4" is the sweet spot, less is bad, more only helps a bit.

That's good info and I'll have to measure with the standoff is on the mounts provided but I think Soviet even had clearance issues mounting it flush. Maybe this is what merits using a smaller diameter fan but I can't justify purchasing third fan when I have to kicking around collecting dust since nobody buys used parts around here (where I live).

perhaps I need to get over my laziness for shipping and post them up here on this site

Measured from the rad face to foremost blade surface? fwiw- Spal makes fan gaskets that work as an insulator and spacer. I'm using one on my 16" Spal mounted to the rad face.

http://fe3miata.com/site/wp-content/...-gasket-1p.jpg

unfortunately that gasket is made only for the 16in

doh- that sucks. You could diy with some locking edge trim?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fc95ff0394.jpg

That's what they use on the FM kit. Thanks for the link !



Which crossflow radiator are you using?

Thats pretty much the same stuff I used too.

These guys have a lot of options too for just about everything.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=1bsqz22

It's a no-name circle track single pass cross flow for a Ford (smallest width- 22") that I bolted a Mercedes 123 diesel oil cooler too. The assembly is just narrow enough to fit in the Miata. The bottom sits about an inch lower than the stock rad. I did have to cut a notch in the hood rib for the cap so the hood would shut. 16" Spal is a good fit for the square rad and the inlet/outlet works for Mazda engines using a coolant reroute coming back on the intake side.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422898230

So shout out matrussell122 for sending me a a couple step files including his Mishimoto radiator file so I could reference the A/C fan mount bosses and compare. I don't have a carpenters square so I'm just guessing off tape measure. Matt's help is appreciated.

I rough modeled the dimensions of the Trackspeed radiator with it's 3" thickness and effective areas of interest and plopped the fan bracket on. In it's current position recessed 0.25" from the surface of the mounting boss, it will place the fan at 0.55" from the fins. I think this is as good as I can get and will have to test fit to see if further shimming is required for clearance to the sway bar.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6df356b3c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15b0391962.jpg

Made a mock up with Lexan. Fan mount hole positions are spot on and it fits the radiator perfectly. I'll have to fashion the mounts to the threaded bosses on the radiator, probably some angle or sheet metal drilled out. Will attempt to make the part and shim with a 0.25" spacer toward the fins and check clearance to sway.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...892355080c.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef3b28e78d.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d63b180c98.jpg

The spal 14" has flat spots on the fan housing (like most slim fans) which nest perfectly between the top and bottom plates of the trackspeed radiator https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f1b09a09e7.jpg

Looking good :bigtu:

I keep coming back to this thread to look at that radiator. If you can move your fan to the far left side i bet you could mount your oil cooler on the right side and still have some spare room. Ill send you the oil cooler model and bracket i came up with a while ago.

Thanks, I'll take a look at the files, however without passenger side fan mounts, and how mich closer it is to the sway bar, I'm uncertain if I can get a 25row to fit.

I finally committed to taking A/C out so I was hoping I could squeeze the cooler where the condenser once sat. I believe it might conflict with the intercooler though.

Preliminary ideas:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...da518de410.jpgNotched the rear to allow the core to breath but kept some of the vertical lip for beam stiffness.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f5f4b119f.jpgFlipped the top bracket to the front, will likely utilize existing threaded holes. I think for the stock hood latch I do not have.



Please don't mind the mess, I've done something stupid and am in the process of POR15ing the bay.

psyber, ive got something im working on...right up your alley i think. totally unrelated to the last few posts..

Oh snap

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5cc92c4098.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33619ef5d4.jpg



Place holder

Sell me the extra master lol

Sure, it'll be available. I'm moving forward with the black master since I have some plumbing ideas and may utilize the prop valve with the integrated front tee.

Did you ever install the proportioning valve and the remote adjuster?



New spacer so the pushrod is at the correct clearance to the MC piston

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...aa885d912c.jpg

I haven't purchased a proportioning valve yet.

When do you need this?

I'm toying around with brakes this week. I should know which one i'm moving forward with soon, but otherwise the standard Wilwood 1" master with proportion valve as sold through TSE/949 will be available. Never installed, but measured and handled.

I'm not in any hurry but can move on it when you are ready.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d49720b939.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7bdfd9a24e.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8d6e5fcb5.jpg

I like dis :likecat:

I'm shocked you haven't relocated that oil filter. I guess there is more room rocking the V8 roadster gear.

Where to relocate to? Also concerned about more points of failure,but it would be convenient elsewhere.

Having the intake manifold support arm removed makes it way easier to access the filter too.

I can see why you would leave it. I relocated mine because I was tired of cutting my arm on junk.

it all comes down to how often you change the oil, imo.

if it's a daily and this is a monthly ordeal, I can totally see the convenience of remote mount. but if it's a weekend toy and see's like 1 oil change per year it's probably not a prob

I must admit, I can never seem to do it without getting some oil on the subframe, which sucks.

I want my filter as close to the engine as possible to catch shit as quick as possible.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/Mi...ter_tool_2.jpg
Not my photo but I do something similar to this.

Wow thats a good idea. I've never thought of that one.

Waiting on fan bracket from machinist. Also looking for some wood for a splitter. Things are standstill at the moment regarding brakes for the moment. I'm unsure if I should use the tee'd proportion valve, or the one that everyone else uses. I'll have to figure out how to install the remote bias adjustment stuff, or if I even want to bother but I know I'm using the black master cylinder as it fits perfect with that small bullet spacer for the pushrod.

I don't know anything about ducting, I may try to tackle that while the bumper is off.

Yes. It would be awesome if someone here had the specs or a drawing of a good setup so you could just make a template and go. Would ABS be any better to use?

Ive literally spent all day trying my hand at cardboard templating and ducting. I got absolutely no where. The plastic was way thick and didn't want to give up its curled Form. Whether or not the templates are of any use, I think ultimately there's a lot going on with wiring even without the a/C condenser. I admit pure and utter defeat and have gained no ground and ended up taking more parts off the car than I had started.

Aidan suggested leaving the plastic roll out in the sun with weights which im doing now till tomorrow. I don't know how invested I'll be with this now. May just slap on the lrb under tray and throw together a splitter thanks to the guidance of several forum members.

Ducting. Black magic. I'll probably need to seek more experienced help to guide me through this as I feel I'm on over my head with this one.

My wife will be out of town later in April. Come down to my place and we can do our cars together and build all the AERO parts.

When? I'm trying to get my car up and sorted for the colonial cup challenge /weekend hpde at summit (4/20-4/22) but will gladly take the trip down to sort this out and hang. I'll have some splitters cut next week but probably won't be running it since I have no wing yet.

When I did my ducting I used 1/8 abs. I got a 4x8ft sheet for under $50. Then used a heat gun to get ot to curve the way I wanted. Then I sealed all the cracks with aluminum tape. Try the splitter then just get the bfw spoiler. Can always run the wing in addition to the spoiler just make the spoiler super low aoa

Ducting photos in your thread?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1358ac6c30.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ca9c41ed1d.jpg


Until im able get help on properly ducting I may just attempt to create some diverter panels. It won't be awesome but it might be marginally better than this hotdog in a hallway gap the lrb undertray comes with. I'm not using the plastic air guide on the front bumper but might try to pick up a second hand oem undertray to see if it'll mount to something (my subframe also has no provision for oem undertray)

Correct.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbdaab467a.jpgCompleted bracket
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3263d93444.jpgWeather strip to seal against the radiator fins
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de11dfc9aa.jpgLower bracket is slotted to accommodate slight manufacturing variations for welded bosses.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...84a0f8171d.jpgUpper bracket with spacer integrated (initially was to be separate)
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0c2c058046.jpgDoes not contact sway bar and maintains a fan blade distance of 0.7" from the radiator fins.

Today I installed the master cylinder and brake booster. Had to re-cut the spacer but if folks are using an NA/NB1 booster, it looks like a socket cap bolt and the wilwood spacer would allow this to be a drop in item.

If using the nb2 booster, then this black master cylinder is drop in but the push rod has to be adjusted about 1/8" out.

This Ight be an OK alternative for hardline flexibility. If you're comfortable working with flaring and cutting hardlines, this eliminated the need for a tee.

I opted to use the two port prop valve since I busted the handle off to accomodate a remote bias adjustment knob. The baller integrated prop valve with tee is awesome and I half wish I experimented with that first.

It's for sale if anyone is interested.

Im waiting for a 37° double flare and die set to come in to accommodate a - 3AN banjo im using for the passenger side hardline but I hope to bleed this and be back on the road in a week. I have a week to shake the car down before the colonial cup challenge/hpde weekend. No time to install splitter but I do t have a wang to balance that out anyway.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ea5751c878.jpgMeasured the depth of the hole
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1024961344.jpg
Of you could use a button cap screw and the power booster adapter that comes with the wilwood kit. " />Needed to cut a spacer to take up the 0.58"

Of you could use a button cap screw and the power booster adapter that comes with the wilwood kit.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...831dc35525.jpgPreliminary location for prop valve. Because I eliminated the hood latch system I used the routing and grommet pass-through for the remote adjuster. Trimmed the torsion cable and soldered the end to hopefully shunt cable fraying.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2d63388c4d.jpgI was going to mount this by the old hood release but that was too low and I might kick it entering and exiting.i just mounted it up here since it's free space and accessible.

Solid work man.

That is a HUGE fan!!!

I gave up on implementing fog lights on the NA because the nb brackets are no where near aligned to where the fog holes are on my NA bumper. This is fine since the car is no longer my daily, I'm just trying to find a way to get this to be a dedicated duct.
The NB1 bezel fits a snug 3.5" piece of PVC which I initially tried with a 4" to 3" reducer. I later found some other PVC bits that fit a tiny bit more loosely but should be OK.


- I cut it to reduce the amount of protrusion from the front....its not going to look pretty since the bezel has a really short edge on one side. It will show some white. I don't know what to paint PVC to make it last so I may just leave it.

- I cut the back end that's threaded only to leave a flange. Itll allow for easier access to hose clamp. I may rivet the PVC into the bumper and the slip the 3" to 2.5" hose reducer in and silicone or just hold it in place from the back end where the hose clamps will tighten against the flange. The silicone reducer had a lip so it'll rest on the PVC and not pass through .


I don't know if this is going to work, but I have my fingers crossed

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d5ab113a4.jpgPVC things?


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...587fd9a8f4.jpgSpacers after the cut bits are discarded (behind)


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf8302a47e.jpg3.0-2.5" reducer for silicone hose


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...de72e2d2be.jpgSilicone hose reducer nesting in pvc.



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b916083497.jpgWon't pass through, but hose and clamp is accessible from back end.

Very nice!

So the pvc spacer presses into the back of the fog bezels, it pokes a bit but not sure I can help that. Maybe try to stain the pvc a dark color? I imagine paint would just chip in its current location..
Just have to rivet or bolt the pvc into the bumper in 2-3 spots.

The 3"-2.5" reducer slips on in

If this doesn't work, concealer pointed me to the aircraft spruce vents everyone uses. I'm just really bad at fabbing mounts and duct stuff but it's a cheap alternative.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...764ee0ebdf.jpg

you could get black pipe fittings that would look more at home in there?

That's just aesthetic, and I can't source Schedule 40 pvc anywhere locally. It should function fine and I'll worry about that later. I kinda just want to get it together. I have a 1 week deadline.

I like what you did with the fan,I think I bought the same one,a 14 inch I think. Hope I can make mine look as good!

Psyber ,where did you find the flat seal strip for the fan?

If you can get to a machinist, I can send the files.


I just went to home depot for the weather strip

Got the bumper back on and routed the brake ducts. Bled brakes but need to do it again still feels soft. Battery is dead, but the car started with a jump for the first time in several months. Changed oil and found no leaks. Need to sort out an overflow tank, but radiator is full and cycled, need to top off since there was no expansion after Cool down.

Hopefully drive around next week to break in the clutch, job interview mid week, then track day next weekend.



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bbf7dbdb32.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...adb316be42.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...075d8155a6.jpg
So car is buttoned back up, just some small odds and ends with plastic clips and putting wheels on.

My gf helped me bleed the brakes. Motive power bleeder did a great job flushing fluid, but it just needed a couple old fashioned pump-hold-floor actions to stiffen up.

​​​​​I am switching over to the PFC 11 pads and got the rears on, the fronts seem to be the wrong pad shape. I ordered the 7752 from OGracing but these look like the thicker 7754 with the notched out center for a bridge bolt. It's 16mm thick instead of 11 (or 12?) there's no way it's going to fit. I hoped to have this on the ground tomorrow.

Ill hope they have these pads in stock so I can pick them up and start bedding.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d2367da3ed.jpg

Last week a buddy helped me re-bleed the brakes and I got it all together for the NASA Mid-Atlantic Spring Rumble.


Now shopping around for new tires (already quite old) and checking hubs

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ab66aa3169.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ddb3419b6a.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d8fd7f790.jpg