Ok, so I've been cruzing through your thread to steal ideas, and I just noticed the Racing Beat oil sandwich adapter. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that feeding unfiltered oil to the turbo?

That's only being used for oil pressure sensors and temp. Turbo feed is 1/8 npt to -6an 90 degree

I'm getting rid of the sandwich plate since I have a 94 block being machined. I'll be tapping the oil pan for temp and souring the oil and coolant from the driver side.


When running an oil cooler, do folks get rid of the stock oil-coolant heat exchanger?

Ahh, ok. My apologies for assuming, thank you for clearing that up :bigtu: You should sell me your old oil feed after you get that 94 block together.

You want it? seriously. I'm making another line for this and was debating cutting this up for the ends. I could just sell to you for the parts cost including the 90° and the bspt-npt adapter. What fitting are you using on the turbo?

So. Full-Race lists the efr6258 and the efr6758 with respective coatings and exhaust housings for the same price. Is there any reason to shift to the 6758 if i plan to only run pump gas?

More headroom is a nice free option, but maybe the 6258 is more than enough.

Machine shop hasn't touched anything yet. I need to find a way to get my clutch and flywheel out of the car but don't have an engine hoist. Anyone in Northern VA can lend a hand?

I think the only reason to go 6758 is if you track your car a lot/want the extra headroom to go bigger with your build.

I see the 6258 spinning really high often if on the track, causing more heat than you'd want. Of course that is all conjecture on my part.

For Autocross/daily, the 6258 would be perfect.

if it was my money, I'd get the 67

because power addiction is a real thing, and many of us suffer from it.

This is why I did NOT get the 67.

Props for pushing through the setbacks. I may have missed it, but what was the cause of the mystery oil leak?

The oil leak was the galley plug behind the oil and water pumps. It was loose presumably because the machine shop didn't remove and replace during hot tanking. Pulled the motor several times to find this out. From now on if not threading and plugging, at least replace.

I pulled the motor out today, and recovered the clutch to send to the machine shop. Before I do, I had a revelation.


I'm using a Competition Clutch Stage 4 which is a 6 puck on a sprung hub. Now on the website it lists its torque capacity as being 225lb/ft. This seems rather low compared to comparable counterparts in industry. I mean FM stage 2 is 318lb/ft using an organic disk. When the car was on the dyno, it didn't seem to be slipping, but I don't know what will happen if I run ALL OF IT with built VVT motor and a 6758.

Being that money and time is tight, should I just run what I have? if it starts slipping, detune and be happy where the car is (replace clutch as needed in future). Or should I just delay everything by a month, and and just get a proper clutch for whatever mystery power goal I'll reach?

225lb? are you sure? I've never seen a pucked clutch rated so low that wasn't some ebay special pile of garbage. If it indeed is only good for that torque rating, you need to replace it asap and save yourself the trouble of doing it twice.

Some sites like gomiata and jscspeed lists the torque capacity as a percentage (250%)

yet this thing just says "225"

Competition Clutch - Stage 4 - 6 Pad Ceramic - Mazda Miata 1.8L 1994-2005 - Competition Clutch SuperStore By Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC



I'm fighting a battle of just getting the car together running, or spending more money on it with the potential it's just going to break in some other way. It'll drive with what I have, but like you said, I'd probably be revisiting this if it is indeed underrated.

Alright, just a quick update:

Everything is at the machine shop. I just need to get the old crank scraper off the old block and weld a bung (or just straight up tap) to the oil pan for the oil temp sensor. I'm getting rid of a sandwich adapter and will try to utilize as much of the block orifiaces as possible. I may even tidy up the hoses and draw coolant straight from the heater core. I harvested the old supertech valvetrain and just need to extract the spring seats. That'll offer a few more shims to spec valve/cam clearances. I ordered new oversized supertech valves and inner springs and will shuffle that off to the machine shop when it arrives with the VVT head (thanks Vlad).

I think I've decided to purchase a super-core from either full-race or treadstone. It's about $400 cheaper and my exhaust housing could be reused for either the 6258 or 6758 format. It's already ceramic coated and didn't undergo much damage since the brittle Gamma TiAl turbine was on the loosing end against cast stainless. Still up for debate is if i stay with 6258 or 6758. Spool for dual purpose or plan for future track rat if I get a dedicated daily.

The extra cash would allow me to get a Skunk2 throttle body and send the intake manifold off at the same time as the head for cleaning.

I got rid of the Mishimoto in anticipation of the SuperMiata radiator, but that looks like its on the back burner for 949Racing. May have to run a stocker in the interim. I have a couple more parts to sell but as for now, it looks like it'll be about a month before the motor is ready to drop in.

In the mean time I'll have to wire things for sequential and transfer the 4 tooth trigger wheel on my SuperMiata damper (thanks joyrider).

I noticed a lot of transmission fluid in the bell housing. Does anyone have any experience in replacing the main seal on the input shaft? I'll try to clean it up and see if it's something I can tackle on my own, or if I should just avoid the headache and start looking for a spare (it's getting a bit crunchy in 5th).

I'm starting to get that tingling excitement of anticipation again. Thanks to those who put up with my questions and who've helped me with parts thus far. Hopefully I'll be able to pay it forward to the community in the near future.

You mean this radiator?
SuperMiata Crossflow aluminum radiator Miata 90-05
That is available for pre-order and should be shipping this month. Unless I am missing something.

Yea I was just referencing it off their other pre-order stuff like Tecnas due for 'late October' delivery since they haven't really updated since August. It's already near the end of the month for this piece but I'll give them benefit of the doubt. Doesn't matter really, the rad will probably come in by the time I'm ready to swap the new stuff in.

Our Crossflow are on a boat headed towards port of Los Angeles. Tecnas and 15x8 shipment are a bit behind schedule.

Flip the neck around and weld a barb on the front.

If I recall, I tried this and there was some additional grinding that needed to happen with some weird fitment issues since it would be sharing space with my hotside charge pipe.

I ended up just having an MSM inlet (they are offset) cut and rotated down some 40° iirc

can be seen here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...f2ed8eee_c-jpg


Thanks Emilio, greatly appreciated for the update.

I have not touched the car in over a month. I'm really struggling to find motivation.

As it sits, I might just sell everything in one go.

I have a fresh built short block, balanced and blue printed. Details:

94 Block
84mm Supertech 8.6:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Race bearings
Crank scraper
Oil Pan tapped

I also have a VVT Head and all the +1mm valvetrain and Supertech dual springs to go with it (Waiting to be installed)

Car is prepped as seen in the thread. I do not have the EFR supercore, but can provide the exhaust housing so you can get a brand new turbo assembled cheaper than brandy new.

Honestly I'm a slave to the finances, and do not have time to keep tinkering. My dad wants this out of the garage and I'm just tired. What would a decent offer be?