It's a plastic Bosch bov that was on the car when I bought it. I'm not sure of the part number of where it came from, but Bosch bov's in general, seem to be pretty good, although not entirely immune to failure.

Can you give me a link to the page that you found? My issue seems to be kind of unique in that I wasn't able to find anybody posting about the same symptoms. I'd love to figure out what the specific cause is.

 

I just googled "Bov wont close" and got a lot of results from DSM sights or pages that said DSM in the heading.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newb...-blow-off.html

http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...w=1280&bih=638

EDIT:

Here is a similar problem with a miata and a bosch BOV.

Here on snowmobiles.

You noticed right after you switched fuels right? In that second thread they had issues right after upping the boost. Maybe more power cause the problem.

 

Thanks, I guess your search terms were better than mine. The issue did develop after switching fuels but I don't think that it's related. I haven't raised the boost yet because the injectors are holding me back.

 

Go with the Injector Dynamics. EV14 injectors are the way to go. Sav runs them in the black car, and Emilio prefers them as well. They will idle like stock and still give you headroom for 400whp on E85.

 

When you switched fuels, did you make more power?

 

Alright, then ID 1000's or 725's it is.

My butt dyno says perhaps a little.






edit: ID1000's ordered. I figured some headroom...or a bunch of headroom would be nice since I don't like to replace things more than once.

 

This weekend, I have:

-Replaced the speedometer cable. I broke the pin off of the old one.... :/
-Went to a fabricator to get a pipe made with a flange for my new bov.
-Installed bov and tapped a 1/4" fitting into the intake manifold. The problem that I was having is gone.
-Installed ID1000's.
-Started tuning fuel and upped the boost to 12lbs.
-Removed the AC thing from behind the dash.
-Removed the passenger seat rails and bolted the seat straight to the floor.
-Washed it.
-Enjoyed it.


Everything went well for the most part, and the car feels a decent bit quicker. Cold starts and idle have improved as well. There were some issues, though. The first is that the bov needs a stiffer spring--I have the stiffest one that Tial currently makes. I'll contact Tial on Monday and try to figure something out. The second problem is that the clutch has started slipping, and it really shouldn't be slipping. I powered through first and second, and when I went into third, the rpm's shot up and my nostrils were graced by that distinct stench of fail. The clutch is a Flyin' Miata level one clutch, and is pretty new(previous owner installed it). FM's site says that it's rated to 318ft/lbs. If I had to guess, I'd say that I'm about 100 or more shy of that. Any guesses as to why I might be burning that up?



Here, have some photos.






I may as well drop this here too.

 

Hows tuning with them injectors?

 

It's really easy. I changed the reqfuel value and then scaled the ve table until the car started and idled nicely, but was slightly rich across the board. That took about 5 minutes. Now that I've made a few tweaks here and there, and spent a few hours driving around with autotune, the car is running very nicely. It idles and cruises more smoothly, and my cold start issue has largely gone away.

 

Ahh. I went with 5o 750's and they are amazing, rough to start, and idles funny. I suppose just more tuning and working with it is in order.

Seen you again at woodward last night, er the car at least. Not sure if you saw me buzzing by / stalling in the lot or not, but i was there.

 

I saw a number of Miatas out last night. Which one was yours?

 

Red, no roll bar, garage vary lip, wide stance, turbo obviously.

 

Okay, I remember seeing a Miata with a GV lip and I remember that it looked nice--all of the other details have slipped my mind. That was probably you then.

 

I'm the only red miata that I know of that shows up on ww regularly. We'll have to shake hands sometime.

 

Doesn't Tial have helper springs? Or am I thinking of someone else ... I am wastegate-free.

Was the flywheel resurfaced when the FM was put in?

Are there any whirrrr noises at all engaging the clutch? If so the full clutch face may not be engaging due to improper bolt torque. This will cause rapid asymmetrical wear to the point of clutch slippage in short order. Sadly I have personal experience with this one.

 

very nice car, makes me want a black na instead of a white one lol

 

Most definitely.

Their wastegates have helper springs, their blowoff valves do not. I contacted Tial and they said that most people rectify this issue by using either an 1/8" or 1/4" shim. The valve is barely cracked open at idle so I'll try an 1/8" shim first and see if I need more.

I'm not sure what the status of the flywheel is. The previous owner was pretty meticulous with this car so I suspect that the flywheel was either resurfaced or replaced.

I haven't noticed any whirring noises during engagement, but I haven't been listening for that specifically either. I'll listen for that next time I drive. I have encountered a number of bolts on the car that weren't as tight as I would have made them, so it is possible that some of the relevant bolts may have been tightened to below spec. The clutch didn't slip at all yesterday, which is nice, but I'll still look into this more whenever I next have time and tools, and that may be a while.

Thanks. Once you go black, you don't go back.

 

Race car or rice car? I don't care--I think it's cool. I hope to find a straight wiper arm at a junk yard and fit it with one of those nice, sleek, Bosch blades. My Miata will look just like a DTM car.



Other things that have been done or are currently being done are:
-shimmed bov(still needs more shim. at least it's closed at idle now)
-properly attached drivers side fender(the bottom wasn't attached when I bought the car. then I went fast and it bent outwards some)
-cut rear bumper (for super MPG's on my upcoming road trip. lulz)
-ironing out my startup enrichments(an unusually lethargic startup mildly embarrassed me in front of this girl that I like *blushes*)
-mostly stripping the interior(I'm masochistic like that)

Hood louvers will probably come soon, too. The single radiator fan struggles to keep the water temp down while I'm in slow traffic and I'd rather vent the hood than shove a slim fan in the vacant spot(the stock fan has a clearance issue).

Harnesses have been ordered(but are on backorder until next week). I also have a 2.5lb fire extinguisher that'll be going in. My bone stock dd caught on fire last year and I'm slightly paranoid now.

I had my last exam yesterday and I have an auto-x on Sunday and a road trip in two weeks. Basically I'm trying to make the car as fun as I can without spending a bunch because I'm feeling really god damn cheap right now. Hooray for austerity.

Pardon my excessive use of parentheses(maybe I'm doing it because I just had a calc exam????).

 

Louvers: Which do you prefer, and why? I don't have a sacrificial spare hood so I'd like to get this right the first time.

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=LVR1006
I'd put them in the super low pressure regions that are forward of the hump. Since they'd be flanking the hump, I'd still have room for a big racecar-spec extraction vent in the center if I decided that I needed one later on.



There's also this three piece louver set that seems nice, although it could potentially end up looking like a clusterfuck. I'll make some cardboard templates to figure out if there's a good way to do this.

There's also this style of louver. fkn expensive for a set of louvers, though. Again, I'll have to make some cardboard templates.
http://www.hoodlouvers.com/products.html#productshood


More options might pop up later.

 

Regarding your clutch woes, I'd check your slave cylinder.

A lot of 'bad' clutches in these cars are actually slave cylinders which have ---- the bed.

-Zach