Windows 95 Upgrade
 

Hey guys. A little over a year ago I sought advice for starting my build. I've included my checklist below and where I'm at with things:

Completed

• DIYPNP2 - Issues: Radiator fan always on, Rough idle after engine is warm
• IAT sensor and cone filter (where MAF and oem airbox used to be)
• LC-2 Wideband - Issues: AFR gauge is pegged
• Injectors - 550cc from RX-7
• Racing Beat midpipe (P/N 56435)
• High flow cat (Magnaflow 59956)
• eBay 2.5" to 4" muffler

Acquired Parts

• BEGi GT2554R turbo kit - Specifically, this one
• Ethuza 3" exhaust + test pipe - this one
• Coolant re-route spacer (sold by whisper from Slovakia )
• EBC Solenoid kit

To Do

• Upgrade clutch - Leaning toward FM Level 1 Happy Meal - Will this even be necessary with the 2554 kit I have??
• Install turbo kit - Which oil pan tap method is recommended, the one described in post #15 on Hornetball's build thread or the one described in BEGi's installation guide?
• Get the car professionally tuned on the dyno
• Body work!

The car is basically stock. It has P/S, A/C, and cruise. The clutch and radiator were recently replace before I bought it. Given the issues I've stated above, should I hold off on installing the turbo kit or should I just go for it? Or should I cut and run before I break something? :hs:


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459480269

Anyone have an opinion on the oil tap method? If not, I think I'll just go by the book...hoping to tackle it next weekend.

Look up my build thread, I copied what hornetball did on my turbo setup, and it works great and was very easy to do.

I read through the entire thread describing your compound turbo project. That's unreal. I actually didn't see any post that described how you tapped the oil pan, but no worries, I think I have a pretty good idea. Did you go 1/2" like hornet or 3/8"?

If the former, it looks like P/N SUM-220851N from Summit would do the trick.

Hmm I know he told me about it, I thought I even posted a pic...


I did it with 1/2" NPT, straight fitting, and hooked the hose to it and bent the hose around to hook to the turbo.

Also I used a shop-vac to blow air into the valve cover where the oil cap goes, this puts positive pressure to blow out metal from the tap when drilling/tapping the pan. WHen done there was like 5 specs of metal in the pan, and I could stick my finger in to get them out no problem.

Yeap, here's a pic:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1459927107

Tapped Pan
 

I finally drilled the pan last weekend. I put a brass plug in the hole until I get around to installing the turbo kit. Photos attached.

Interesting location, Why not on the driver side?

Not sure what you mean. That is the driver's side of the front of the pan...

I've never seen the front of the pan used :dunno:

Spot #1
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383758640

Spot #2
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462971410



Spot #3
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462971410
https://www.flyinmiata.com/media/cat...img_2270_2.jpg

Front-mount turbo, obviously.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1462975614

lol that's the most idiotic location I've ever seen :laugh:

I did it that way because it had great clearance for drilling with everything still installed on the car. Going on 40K miles with that drain location. Would do again.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...37/#post695144

if you don't have ac why wouldn't you drill in the traditional spot? its also really easy to access. just seems really weird and silly

this guy looks like he has ac too, so there's a belt there, and the drain now has to go around all that

We both have AC. Works perfectly with AC. Pictures in link.

Out of curiosity, do you have R39 installed in your diypnp?

I followed this assembly guide and I don't recall installing it. I can check next time I open it up.

Exhaust removal
 

A little update: I removed the exhaust manifold and everything behind it. The EGR tube was a challenge. I didn't have a flare wrench so I bought one. For reference, the nut is the same size as the O2 sensor, 22mm or 7/8". Spraying it with PB blaster wasn't enough. I had to get it nice and hot with a heat gun and stand halfway in the engine bay so I could apply pressure to the end of the wrench with my foot. At least it's off! A log-style cast iron manifold from BEGi will be replacing it. It has a bung for the EGR tube, but it looks like I'll need this 90 degree adapter as well as the ferrule fitting. If one of you guys who did an EGR delete has this laying around, I'd be happy to buy it off you.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7c3623ab69.jpg

Here is a pic of the old exhaust setup. It includes a 2.5" Magnaflow 59956 cat, Racing Beat 2.375 midpipe, and eBay 2.5" to 4" muffler tip–all with welded flanges. I'll be replacing it with a full 3" Enthuza.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7ba164e760.jpg

Are you required to keep EGR?

Not exactly, because I have an MS2, but let me walk you through my logic. The new 3" exhaust system I'll be installing utilizes a test pipe instead of a catalytic converter. I'd love to be able to pass the smog test without a cat, and I think my chances will be higher if I keep the EGR. If not, I guess I can always replace the test pipe with a Magnaflow 59559, but it would be nice if I can avoid that. Is that realistic?

I've also read that deleting the EGR doesn't result in performance gains, so if the only advantage is saving $50 on the fittings, I'm fine keeping it. If there are other benefits I'm not aware of, I'd be interested in learning about them.

Manifold Installed
 

Bolted on the manifold this weekend.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2ac63790ef.jpg
Next round I'll be tackling the coolant lines.

Totally off topic but this song uses sound samples from Windows 95

The other benefit is not running your engines ass juices back into its mouth human centipede style. You also won't be passing a smog test without a catalytic converter. OEM's can't do it. What makes you think you can?

Thanks. If I ever make a post-install video, I'm definitely using this for the background music.

Solid visual on that EGR metaphor. I don't have a strong basis for passing the sniff test on a catless system other than reading about a few others who claim to have done so on a good tune. I'm not against adding a cat. I'm mostly just curious if it's possible.

Currently in the process of installing the water bypass system from BEGi. I removed the power steering pump so I could remove the OEM water inlet flange and the pipe that goes back to the heater hose.

I put on a fresh gasket on and began bolting up the new flange with the existing 12mm bolts. Top bolt went on fine but the bottom one didn't tighten all the way. Since the bolts are steel and the outlet flange on the water pump is aluminum I didn't want to force it. So I pulled out the bolt and noticed some shavings on the threads, so I think the hole on the pump's flange is stripped. What would you do?

1. Epoxy on the bolt since it's not a high torque application
2. Helicoil on the pump's flange
3. Replace the timing belt and water pump while I'm at it
4. Something else?

I would replace the water pump. Trying to repair the threads there would suck without pulling the pump, and once it's removed you might as well just replace it.

I knew that would be the answer, but I'm really not looking forward to the labor involved. The engine has 130k and I don't know the history so timing belt and seals are probably in order as well. :ugh:

Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement
 

Finally getting around to this. I will be replacing the timing belt, water pump, front crank seal, cam seals, valve cover gasket, tensioner and idler pulleys, camshaft angle sensor (CAS) seal, and thermostat outlet seal. I have a couple questions while I have everything apart.

1. For those of you with Protegé/Escort/Tracer valve covers, where did you relocate the breather tube? It looks like I can drill a 5/16" pilot hole and insert the tube just about anywhere on the valve cover. I've seen someone put it on the passenger side of the valve cover behind the PCV and run a tiny filter straight off the tube.
2. Any tips on mounting the coil pack bracket? The current plan is to tap the rear breather tube hole so I can stick a bolt in there for a homemade bracket
3. What is your opinion on adjustable cam gears? I am replacing the cam seals so I figured now would be the time to replace them if it's worth it. If OEM, has anyone powder coated them for sick club roadster style points?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9cb7fd7e87.jpg

Escort valve cover intake tube
 

I ended up tapping a 1/8" NPT hole on the valve cover. Who knew this would require an R-size bit for the pilot hole? Not me. Anyhow this allowed me to thread on a 1/8" NPT to 3/8" hose barb adapter which accommodated a tiny Spectre 9mm filter. Photos below.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b52203dff.jpgBrass adapter threaded on

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a3b4a86038.jpgMini cone filter shown (before installing hose clamp)

To plug the rear I tapped an m10x1.25 hole and put on a fine threaded flange bolt.

COP kit or not?
 

UPDATE: Timing belt, water pump, front crank seal, tensioner/idler pulleys, tensioner spring, cam seals, and CAS o-ring are done. I didn't do the thermostat seal because I'll probably do the coolant reroute in the near future. I also haven't bolted the valve cover back on because I'm not sure if I want to keep the OEM coil pack or install a COP kit.

Anyone running a Toyota/fab9/LSx COP kit with a similar setup to mine? Yay or nay?

I found a set of fidanza gears and threw em on. See below.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d8806106b.jpg

Mounted turbo
 

I ended up going with the COP kit from Fab9. After installing those (super easy) I bolted the valve cover with the bolts in the right order and to the correct torque spec range (43 - 78 INCH/lbs.) I put em around 60.

Next, I removed the plug in my oil pan and went to replace it with a 90º 1/2" NPT to -8AN fitting so I could connect the stainless drain line. Unfortunately the A/C compressor mounting bracket was preventing me from rotating the fitting clockwise to tighten it, so I had to remove it. This was a pain because I had already reinstalled my P/S pump and belt after doing the timing belt and it's never fun to go backwards when things should be progressing. Here's how it looks.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...074af6c047.jpgOil pad drain line

Here's how it looks with the turbo mounted:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a3119246f6.jpgTurbo mounted to exhaust manifold

Next up is installing the intercooler and piping. Getting close!

that 90 on the oil drain line is really really terrible

hornetball explained he did it that way because his car has A/C
hornetball explained we both have A/C so we did it that way
I put a 90 degree so the drain wouldn't have to go around all that
I'm not sure what I expected.

Look, if I did it again I might have the A/C discharged, remove the hoses and compressor bracket, and drill the side facing the driver side fender the conventional way. But I didn't do that, so I'm working with what I got. If it doesn't work out, I'm documenting the build so me and anyone who reads it can learn from my mistake. If it does, then at least we'll know there's one other dumb way to do it.

when your turbo starts puking oil, you'll know.
carry on

Heater core hose re-route
 

The unconventional routing continues. Here's how I ran my coolant lines to/from the turbo and how I re-routed the heater core hose–the one that used to be the hardline mounted on the exhaust side of the block. I actually re-used the 1.25" steel elbow and had a buddy weld a 3/8" NPT bung so I could attach a 5/8" hose barb to connect the heater core hose. Pics below.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...438d036339.jpgView from the top down

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ecb682db9.jpgStraight on view of the lower radiator hose

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8d6c6a90b.jpgHeater core hose routing

Vacuum Lines
 

I could use some help figuring out how to connect all my air lines.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...877e7f75a3.jpg

I've labeled them below

• A - Signal source fitting 1: Boost gauge
• B - Signal source fitting 2: Blow off valve (H)
• C - Signal source fitting 3: Cruise control
• D - Intake manifold: Cold side of intercooler piping (G)
• E - Wastegate actuator: ???
• F - Air intake: Plug it off
• G - Intercooler pipe, cold side: Intake manifold (D)
• H - BOV: Signal source fitting 2 (B)

Am I on the right track?

I have an electronic boost control (EBC) solenoid that I haven't installed. If I were to install it, it looks like I would connect the single side (2) to the wastegate and the lower port of the double side (1) to a boost source aka anywhere between the turbo and the throttle body, (G) for example.

D to H.
E to G.

everything else capped.

Thanks.

IAT sensor placement
 

Next up is finding a good location for the IAT sensor. I was going to put it on the end tank of the intercooler cold side, but as you can see the A/C condenser isn't going to allow enough room to fit the pigtail connection so I ended up plugging it.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae5f7c4966.jpg

I have a steel bung that could be welded into the pipe nearest to the outlet, but if there are other suggestions that don't involve welding, I'm all ears!

IAT bung
 

Yeah I couldn't think of a better idea either. I added a couple coats of flat black primer before installing. You can see the new IAT bung just below the IACV hose port.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ffad4486ea.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e19f73048c.jpg

Power steering reroute
 

When I first tried mounting the intercooler, the stock power steering "cooler" was blocking it. The stock cooler is basically just a hard line that makes a U-turn in front of the radiator. The shape reminds me of the heating element on an oven. Anyway that thing was preventing the FMIC from going in all the way so I cut the lines, flared on the end, and ran rubber hoses to a cheap accessory cooler. I zip tied the new cooler through the A/C condenser and onto the radiator.

Attachment 231986P/S hard lines - cut and flared

Attachment 231987cheap accessory cooler

Attachment 231988Cooler fastened to the A/C condenser

Attachment 231989Rubber hoses routed to accomodate the intercooler

Buttoning Things Up
 

With all the lines connected, I changed the oil filter and put all the fluids in: oil, coolant, and power steering. No visible leaks. I charged the battery overnight, hooked it up and...the car didn't start. :sad2: Disappointing to say the least. It cranks strong, but not so much as a sputter. I'll troubleshoot as soon as I'm feeling up to it and report my results.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...487b99bf88.jpg

So you had it running on megasquirt before all this right? Looks like you changed your coil setup.

I have $3.50 on no spark from wiring/setting issue.

That was my first thought, so I pulled the boot off the closest plug, grabbed a spare plug, put the spare plug in the boot, and cranked the motor while a buddy touched the plug threads to metal on the engine and looked for an arc. Sure enough there was a strong spark.

I tried cranking it for several seconds and eventually I got it to backfire. To rule out the COP kit variable, I pulled the iridiums, put the original plugs back in, and plugged in the OEM coil pack. Nothing. This leads me to the conclusion that I screwed up the timing when I was changing the timing belt. I'm not sure how, because I used the FM tooth holder tool, then double adjustable wrenches clamped together when changing the cam gears, but I don't know what else it could be. I'm open to theories.

So...can anyone link me to a tutorial on resetting the timing?

I never found the motivation to resume troubleshooting the timing so I had the tuner shop fix that before putting it on the dyno. The intake side was pretty far off. I'm not sure how I messed it up that bad, but apparently I did! Anyway, they got it to 175hp at the wheels. It drives like a different car.

Driving on the interstate home the temp gauge was hovering at the 1 o'clock position (if 12 is middle and 2 is at the far end of the hot side). I stopped about every 20-30 minutes over the course of 2 hours to let it idle and get the gauge back to the middle, which it did after only a few minutes of idling. Later that night I realized I never burped the system and topped off the coolant when it was on jack stands because I never got it started. I never experienced loss of power, heard hissing, or saw steam so I'm hoping that is all the car needs and no harm was done to the engine while it was running hot.

Stayin Fresh, Stayin Cool
 

UPDATE: I put the car on ramps and topped off the reservoir and rad. It took at least a quart. Drove it for another 20 minutes and it still got hot. Let it sit for about an hour, then put in more coolant. It took another quart or so, right to the fill line. Drove it hard for an hour straight and it stayed cool the entire time. It's amazing how a miata will stay cool when it has all 6L of coolant! Oil level is good, color looks good, it runs like a champ, and idles great so I think I am in the clear.

Are you running an undertray?

No. Previous owner must have removed it. That's a good idea. Where's the best place to pick up a replacement?

Any local miata parters in your area? If anyone's parting a car on craigslist, you can ask them as well. It's definitely the first thing I would try along with trying to seal the radiator a bit on top. If that all doesn't work, then hood vents and/or ducting, but I highly doubt that will be necessary. Running the undertray will probably do it. It forces way more air through the rad.

Oil spill
 

Today I noticed a small puddle in the driveway below the car. After careful inspection, the leak appears to be coming from the base of the oil dipstick tube. After quick research, I learned an o ring secures it to the block. I guess that's next on the list...

My biggest relief isn't even the cost. It's that 18psi was wrong about my 90 degree fitting on the oil pan working.

Dipstick o ring
 

Sure enough, I confirmed the culprit.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d8acf96864.jpg

The most expensive part is the quart of oil I lost in the process. For reference, here are the o ring dimensions:

• 1/2" OD
• 3/8" ID
• 1/16" thickness

Smog test
 

I had the car tested today and these were the results. In my county passing is 220ppm HC and 1.20 CO%. I currently have a low-mileage, high flow cat installed.

High Speed Test
HC: 533
CO: 0.03%
CO2: 10.7% / 2,433 RPM

Idle Test
HC: 39
CO: 0.0%
CO2: 12.6% / 679 RPM

Any tips on adjusting the tune to reduce hydrocarbons at 2,500 RPMs?

Make sure the car is fully warmed up. Make sure timing isn't weird. Make sure ignition is working 100% properly.

HC is unburned fuel.

Could also try to find an OEM catalytic converter, or just find some e85, add 30% fuel across the board and drive it easy and only do emissions on it.

https://www.smogtips.com/failed-high...carbons-HC.cfm

Tune
 

Thanks for the tips. You are referring to increasing every value in the Fuel VE table by 30% after filling the tank with E85?

I attached my current tune, for reference.