Windows95

With all the lines connected, I changed the oil filter and put all the fluids in: oil, coolant, and power steering. No visible leaks. I charged the battery overnight, hooked it up and...the car didn't start. Disappointing to say the least. It cranks strong, but not so much as a sputter. I'll troubleshoot as soon as I'm feeling up to it and report my results.

SpartanSV

So you had it running on megasquirt before all this right? Looks like you changed your coil setup.

I have $3.50 on no spark from wiring/setting issue.

Windows95

That was my first thought, so I pulled the boot off the closest plug, grabbed a spare plug, put the spare plug in the boot, and cranked the motor while a buddy touched the plug threads to metal on the engine and looked for an arc. Sure enough there was a strong spark.

I tried cranking it for several seconds and eventually I got it to backfire. To rule out the COP kit variable, I pulled the iridiums, put the original plugs back in, and plugged in the OEM coil pack. Nothing. This leads me to the conclusion that I screwed up the timing when I was changing the timing belt. I'm not sure how, because I used the FM tooth holder tool, then double adjustable wrenches clamped together when changing the cam gears, but I don't know what else it could be. I'm open to theories.

So...can anyone link me to a tutorial on resetting the timing?

Windows95

I never found the motivation to resume troubleshooting the timing so I had the tuner shop fix that before putting it on the dyno. The intake side was pretty far off. I'm not sure how I messed it up that bad, but apparently I did! Anyway, they got it to 175hp at the wheels. It drives like a different car.

Driving on the interstate home the temp gauge was hovering at the 1 o'clock position (if 12 is middle and 2 is at the far end of the hot side). I stopped about every 20-30 minutes over the course of 2 hours to let it idle and get the gauge back to the middle, which it did after only a few minutes of idling. Later that night I realized I never burped the system and topped off the coolant when it was on jack stands because I never got it started. I never experienced loss of power, heard hissing, or saw steam so I'm hoping that is all the car needs and no harm was done to the engine while it was running hot.

Windows95

UPDATE: I put the car on ramps and topped off the reservoir and rad. It took at least a quart. Drove it for another 20 minutes and it still got hot. Let it sit for about an hour, then put in more coolant. It took another quart or so, right to the fill line. Drove it hard for an hour straight and it stayed cool the entire time. It's amazing how a miata will stay cool when it has all 6L of coolant! Oil level is good, color looks good, it runs like a champ, and idles great so I think I am in the clear.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Are you running an undertray?

Windows95

No. Previous owner must have removed it. That's a good idea. Where's the best place to pick up a replacement?

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Any local miata parters in your area? If anyone's parting a car on craigslist, you can ask them as well. It's definitely the first thing I would try along with trying to seal the radiator a bit on top. If that all doesn't work, then hood vents and/or ducting, but I highly doubt that will be necessary. Running the undertray will probably do it. It forces way more air through the rad.

Windows95

Windows95

Today I noticed a small puddle in the driveway below the car. After careful inspection, the leak appears to be coming from the base of the oil dipstick tube. After quick research, I learned an o ring secures it to the block. I guess that's next on the list...

My biggest relief isn't even the cost. It's that 18psi was wrong about my 90 degree fitting on the oil pan working.

Windows95

Sure enough, I confirmed the culprit.


The most expensive part is the quart of oil I lost in the process. For reference, here are the o ring dimensions:

• 1/2" OD
• 3/8" ID
• 1/16" thickness

Windows95

I had the car tested today and these were the results. In my county passing is 220ppm HC and 1.20 CO%. I currently have a low-mileage, high flow cat installed.

High Speed Test
HC: 533
CO: 0.03%
CO2: 10.7% / 2,433 RPM

Idle Test
HC: 39
CO: 0.0%
CO2: 12.6% / 679 RPM

Any tips on adjusting the tune to reduce hydrocarbons at 2,500 RPMs?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Make sure the car is fully warmed up. Make sure timing isn't weird. Make sure ignition is working 100% properly.

HC is unburned fuel.

Could also try to find an OEM catalytic converter, or just find some e85, add 30% fuel across the board and drive it easy and only do emissions on it.

https://www.smogtips.com/failed-high...carbons-HC.cfm

Windows95

Thanks for the tips. You are referring to increasing every value in the Fuel VE table by 30% after filling the tank with E85?

I attached my current tune, for reference.