Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

Those K vibes are killer. K swapped Miata's in GLTC have had a bunch of ACT pressure plates. They are seeing broken pressure plate straps which lead to big vibrations, inoperable clutches, and even catastrophic failures. Good thing you're keeping the SPM pressure plate and it's holding up well.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Broken straps on pressure plates are pretty typical of reverse loading them, usually due to poor rev matching. Haven’t seen a lot of OP’s type of failure outside of FM’s stage 1 happy meals. Tough to diag when you know it’s been over torqued.

Wingman703

Miataturbo! I need aid/coaching advice from those that know NCM well. I came into the weekend thinking a 2:10 would be fairly easy to hit, and a 2:05 would be a good challenging goal. I feel I am incredibly off pace, as practice today my best was a 2:14.4. Many people here are saying the track is slower/greener then normal, but I refuse to blame that on me being so slow. I only have my laptops to work with, so unfortunately no data overlay. But if the NCM gurus see anything major that I'm screwing up... Please, please give me tips.
Where I feel I'm loosing some time:Need more entry speed into T1, perhaps not even a downshift into 3rd, hold 4th all the way into T2 and skip that upshift?I overcooked T6 lap... It's so tricky to guage my braking marker for this one. ABS has saved my *** multiple times here. Carry more speed over the crest of 15 into 16. It's so scary to do though! The car almost completely unloads there and has gotten sideways a few times. I should/could probably be deeper into the throttle exiting T23 onto the front straight. Facing down that tire wall is definitely unnerving though.

engineered2win

Turn 1)
Carry more speed in. It sounded like you were actually on the throttle between 1A and B, which should never happen. You just need to brake enough to make 1A. Then depending on your setup you can trail brake into 1A or get it turned in and brake in a straight line into 1B. I treat 1A like the bus stop at Mid Ohio club course. The Miata should be happy riding those curbs too, unless you're really stiff, which really straightens out this chicane.

Turn 2/3)
With enough grip and power, which you should have, you can basically treat this like 1 increasing radius corner. Ideally you're about a car width off the apex through 3, so that you're carrying as much speed as possible into the straight, but not losing time going way out wide. Don't go trying to blitz the braking zone into 2. It's slightly downhill and off camber and carrying too much speed into 2 pushes you into the quite rough rumble strips or way wide at 3. Which you were a good ways off the apex in 2.

5)
This is very similar to 16. You're braking too much at 5. I like to brush, which for your power level is probably a medium brake before the 1 marker and roll off and settle the car with the throttle. You can carry immense speed into the brake zone for 6 if the car is balanced. You'll actually need a fairly high amount of throttle mid corner to maintain the optimum slip angle. However, there is basically no runoff so if things go wrong they go really wrong.

6) This is sloping away from you, so you can't carry as much speed into it as you would expect. And the exit is where it slopes away the most, so it requires patience.
7-8-9) Use all the curb.

10) Stay about a car width right of the inside curb. You want to straighten out this downhill brake zone into the slowest turn. Typically aim for the 3rd painted section of curb from the left as a reference point. Also avoid the curbs here, which like the outside of 2 are quite rough.

12) You can really smash the right curb if you're pushing flat out, but it's really hard on the car. However, there are a lot of crashes here due to people getting on the throttle while the car is unsettled and looping it into the wall. If it limits your ability to get on the throttle, then I would suggest avoiding the right curb. I'd avoid the curb until you get more confidence and then you can play around with smashing it, but I'd just prioritize trying to get the power down for the 2nd not-a-straight straight.

15) Similar to 5, but with some elevation. Brake quite hard into the face of the hill then roll off and settle the car with maintenance throttle. You can basically carry enough speed through 16 that you naturally end up on the outside of the track for the brake zone into 17. It's the other big cajone turn, where there's basically no runoff, but tons of time to gain if you dare.

18) This is kinda tricky. Some guys hug the inside of the track all the way around and some guys use like 1 car width off the inside. Whatever you do you need to be to the far right and parallel to the track entering 19, which is downhill into the sinkhole.
19-20) If you point the car at the inside of 20, which is going uphill out of the sinkhole, braking will naturally cause you to drift right. You want to be about a half car width off the inside of 20. Too far to the inside of 20 and you compromise your line into the chicanes and too far right and you just end up traveling a longer distance.
Then it's connect the chicanes and ride those curbs. The only one I would suggest possibly avoiding is 23, if like Deception, is causing you to significantly wait to go WOT. There is also the pit wall right there too.

Give em hell. I hope the asian fusion food truck is there. That's probably my favorite of all the midwest tracks, with the BBQ truck at Pitt Race a close 2nd. We also stop at Montana Grill every year.

doward

What he said^

Overall the lap looked pretty leisurely. It may not have felt that way, so maybe i'm off base, but hopefully some more big track seattime will let you turn it to 11 mentally.

It might be too late to watch incar from similar cars, but TomO driving Marcus' Kmiata and my 2:19 lap with 143whp can show the min speed/aero bravery sections.

The big spots I noticed in your video were Sinkhole and up into/through the esses. You can out-in-out a bit more at the bottom and up the hill in order to late apex the exit of sinkhole and better allow treating the last of the esses as extra straightaway. You have 200 more HP than ive ever driven at NCM, so that may be harder than it looks, but pretty beneficial.
That will organically mean you have more speed through 1A into 1B, and if you do not change your brake zone for 1A, you'll naturally be correct through 1B without that extra dab of throttle.

T5 and T17 are sneaky fast as mentioned above. They take confidence/bravery. Might be worth dialing in a bit more wing for an aero-push on purpose just to add to the confidence factor.

Hopefully it comes to you, but its a super busy, long, complicated and bravery-required track. I have never set a benchmark there that I feel is even 90%, so dont beat yourself up too hard.

OptionXIII

I've been doing quite a bit of research on Afco setups and I've noticed two things in this picture.

1. Pad is overhanging the edge of the rotor at the top. You may want to check if the mounting bolts have enough slop to move to position the edge of the pad on the edge of the rotor bevel. I am not certain as I don't have a Brofab/Jerfspeed kit and am still working on placing my caliper, but I think the brackets may be up/down or L/R side specific. You may try flipping the brackets or swapping them to see if the overhang changes as well. The pad overhang makes sense when looking at how you had to clearance the top of the caliper, but not the bottom.

2. It looks like you have staggered piston calipers. Are you sure the calipers are on the correct side? This picture looks like it was taken behind the left hand wheel, and I see the lower (leading) piston looks larger. I'm pretty sure it should be configured so the smaller piston is leading. I can check my own Afcos later which are labelled with stickers. But these two sources are available now and agree.

EBC Brakes Racing – Brake Pad Tapered Wear and How to Avoid or Correct It - EBC Brakes
Tech Tip: Why Staggered Pistons Are Important for Brake Calipers – Gorsuch Performance Solutions

I don't think either of these things would fix all your issues, but it could help a lot with wear regardless of what pad you use next.

Wingman703

Inital install was indeed flipped-this was corrected before they were ever used. The caliper sits very high in the wheel if the brackets are reversed- I think, but am not certain, that shortly after I bought my adapters he started marking them right and left. I think the overhang looks worse in that photo then it is in person, the majority of it was buildup/pad slag/small edge from the taper on the rotor. At most its half a millimeter of an edge.
Interesting. When I first installed them, I inquired with Bronson which way to orient, and was told bigger piston on the leading edge, as the trailing edge of the pad would be hotter and require less force. I wonder if there was a mixup between us or leading vs trailing, as those sources seem trustworthy. For NCM, I simply swapped the pads and allowed the taper to even itself out, this seemed to work perfectly. But I think I'll switch the calipers over the off season after reading those articles. Thanks for the heads up!

OptionXIII

Here's what is marked as the left hand caliper both on the box and the caliper. The leading piston is smaller.

I've heard that the explanation is that the friction creates a moment on the pad face, pulling the leading edge harder into the rotor, and so you use a smaller leading piston to compensate. I've also heard the heat explanation for why the leading piston should be larger.

Wingman703

SCCA TT Nationals- or the alternate title, "In which I take my 400whp car to NCM and run midpack GLTC times"
Ok, it wasn't quite that bad, but



Man, the problems started right out of the gate for me and kept me busy all weekend. Thursday was practice day, and I needed it. I'd been to NCM once before in a stockish miata with airdam/wing aero. I remember it being an incredibly fun course with a handful of flat out sweepers to catch all the corvettes in, and a corner or two that made you pull your hair out trying to preserve momentum in. This is NOT the same course that I arrived at with my car, as its now has TERRIFYING high speed sweepers with inconsequential runoff areas(T5/16), twisty bits that taunt you into thinking they are flat but are juuuust twisty enough you have to blend out of throttle(T12, 22) as well as two low speed corners that laugh at you as you try and fail to put power down cleanly(T3, 10).
I pulled back into paddock after my first practice session in mental shambles having barely run a 2:17 and was greeted with an engine bay covered in oil- something on the lower drivers side had spewed big time and soaked everything. There had been a very, very small leak down there ever since I had the head/front cover off, but not near big enough to worry about or do more then wipe up occasionally. For whatever reason it picked now to go from a minor annoyance to a massive fire hazard. I tried a few methods to locate and deal with said oil geyser, but eventually decided it must be my oil drain line seeping at the timing cover port, as the pigmat I wrapped around it for a session returned fairly saturated. Note both the oil puddles on the splitter, as well as oil flung onto frame rails, oil filter, charge pipes, steering rack... God that was such a mess, and it happened for each of the three practice sessions Thursday.


As well as consistently dripping oil, the car also decided that keeping coolant in the coolant system was for losers, and 1-2 pints of coolant would just... go missing in a single session. As one would imagine, this lead to higher then normal coolant temps while on track. Practice sessions became a half lap warmup, bang out a quick flier at full boost(which continually dropped all weekend, ulgh another, separate issue...), limp it around in full cooldown mode for two laps then knock out another lap or two at a reduced boost level before the dash alarms kicked on again.
Suffice it to say, Thursday was spent more preventing the car from self immolating then turning laps. I miiiight have done a dozen laps at pace, and then a handful of laps in limp mode trying to cool things down.
So yes, by the time I posted Thursday asking for last minute coaching advice, I was fairly frustrated both at me and the car. Despite having studied video for the week leading up to the event, I felt so lost trying to find more speed and find the secrets of this really, really complex track.
The initial plan months ago had been to have a much more proficient codriver along with to help get me up to speed and give feedback on the car- Tom 'O or DJ were the prospects, but neither could make this event unfortunately.

Thursday night after the community hotdog grilling and car inspection party(For all those smart people not running in Unlimited classes, that inspection part is probably a bigger deal and prime opportunity to lodge protests) I pulled the hotside off to replace the suspected oil line with my spare, as well as try and find where all my coolant was going. I couldn't find anything wrong with the oil line once off the car, but replaced it anyway as I was in there, and all coolant system clamps and hoses were secure and didn't display any obvious signs of leaking. The coolant issue persisted all weekend, and I still don't know where its leaking from- its only when the system is fully pressurized, and it wont do it in the garage.



I finished out the day watching video from the laps I had completed and trying to figure out how to drive this track. @engineered2win , thank you for the timely response, which just helped confirm I was taking T1/2/3 wrong and wasn't being brave enough for 5 and 15.


Day 1 of TT competition dawned, and look who finally rolls up, fashionably late!


The Brigg's Motorsports car, piloted by Joshua himself. For those that don't know this car, its my car, but with a real budget and development. Quaife sequential, 700whp+ built motor, dry sumped, beautiful cage, all the aero, and a ton of tricks under the skin. We've met and hung out before at NASA SE events(Josh will talk your ear off about all sorts of technical details if you let him), the car's a blast to watch scream by.

I tried to really commit into the high speed corners to find time, but the car just refused to do it. Either the rear would step out and I would spend half the corner trying to pull it out of the marbles and back into the line, or the front would just go "lol no" and I'd again, plow into the marbles. It felt like every high speed corner was a clumsy dance of not putting the car into the wall, and every low speed exit was a test of my drifto skills to keep a lively rear end pointing rearward. I moved my front swaybar from full stiff to full soft and loosened up the shocks as well to try and get some confidence in the car, but it wasn't until the very last session during a cooldown lap I found a local blue miata to chase and help show me the line. Or at least, that was my thought when I saw him approaching in my rearview. Despite falling into lockstep behind him and matching his brake, turn in, and throttle points, I couldn't keep up with a lower aero, N/A Kpowered car in the corners. My car just pushed and slide where his gripped up and left me far, far behind, something that absolutely shouldn't be happening considering the aero, tire, and power advantage my car held.



I had a few long discussions with Briggs after the last session, and during that it came up that I was running on well, well heatcycled R7 takeoffs with 2021 datecodes. Josh mentioned that he had a "toast" set of 295 A7's sitting in the trailer. 6+ events, dozens of heatcycles, no longer fast for him, but I was more then welcome to try them and see if they were any better then my old R7's. What the hell I figured, couldn't be any worse, and the next day was "tracksprints"- short A to B, autoX-esc runs that wouldn't give me time to build the heat needed in an R7 anyway. If nothing else, the additional width of a 295 would be an advantage over my 245's.

Oh. My. God.

THE FITMENT
JUST LOOK AT THAT FITMENT
DEVINE!


Oh, and yeah, hooooo leee fuuuuck, those "trash" A7's had LEAGUES more grip then my old R7's. I gained a TON of confidence in the car during the short tracksprints, which, by the way, are so friggin hectic! The format is three runs on each of NCM's sub courses- East, a 40 second ish sprint, and west, a 1:20 or so treck. But your runs happen basically back to back to back. If you have a normal seatbelt and are on your toes, you have juuuust enough time to pop out and check tire pressures before hopping back in the car for your next go. Harnesses and a hans? Forget it, just stay strapped in and check your switch positions(or be like me, and forget to turn on your boost controller until you've left the line...). Absolutely no time for anything like watching video or looking at data, just go go go!
I did really good in tracksprints. Was it my hillclimb/autoX background, sheer luck, or the fatty 295's? Probilby a combination of all the above, but I hopped up a few places overall and in class after the day of sprints.
After we were done with sprints, there were two sessions of Ultimate Track Car Challenge practice. UTCC has jumped ship from NASA and is now at SCCA events for the time being, but as this was their first year with SCCA at NCM, organization was somewhat lacking and they told us ANYONE competing in UTCC could go out for the practice sessions, weather we had the practice sessions the day before or not. So I said **** it, lets see what I can knock out on the big course with these "new" tires, and promptly took 4 seconds off my time.


Now I'll be honest. I felt like I "cheated" to hit this 2:10 time. Its EVERYONES go to, default excuse for being slow "huuurr duuur muh tires r so bad bruh i haz no grip just ned tirz i swear". I threw an additional 80mm of stickier tire at the car per side, and still drove a pretty messy lap. I really think I could have done the same time on a lesser tire with more seat time and studying this course. But throwing raw grip at the problem had the desired effect and car go zoom. I want to come back to this track. I WILL come back to this track, and drive it less bad next time, on tires that aren't from last election cycle, with a car that can do more then two laps without croaking so I can get comfortable.
When a GLTC spec car with 180whp and 2500lbs goes a 2:14 at NCM... an unlimited car with 380whp, 2300lbs, and a crapton more aero should be capable of far, far more than a 2:10. As Leichty shows in the WF V8 car.

Anyway... big fat tires do big fat tire things, and the data shows there really wasn't a speed penalty despite the increased rolling resistance. But they did allow me to go deeper and faster into the higher speed corners, and put down power very effectively in 3rd gear. Minimum corner speeds were up basically everywhere.
I'm also more then happy to share this AIM data with anyone interested in it-simply shoot me a PM with an attached email address and I'll fork it over. Red is my old R7's, blue is borrowed A7's.

Wingman703

The car had still been leaking oil after replacing the oil line Thursday night, turns out the oil line I spent an hour replacing and couldn't find an issue with... was not the culprit. So operation "slather everything in the good stuff" was greenlit, and I liberally applied sealant to everything that had even the smallest chance of leaking oil. Ugly? Yup, but by sheer luck I plugged the leak and didn't have issues with that side of the engine bay for the rest of the weekend.


The car wasn't content with eating coolant being its only issue, so after tracksprints the alternator started acting flaky, and then after the UTCC practice session it starting making a bad wining noise. I had a spare alternator, so I opted to swap it in Saturday night to preempt a total electrical failure. Unfortunately that alternator didn't fully solve my charging issue, and after some lengthy diagnosis, I found a large crimp on the main lead from the alternator to battery was intermittently cutting contact. I didn't have the proper tools to completely fix it, so I "recrimped" it with some vicegrips and crossed my fingers that it would last the final day without setting fire to my oil soaked engine bay.


Oh, you noticed the pigmat wrapped around the catchcan atmosphere vent? That's because the second I fixed the lower oil leak, it started vomiting oil out of the catchcan and coating the OTHER side of the bay, which till now had been spared the Exxon Valdez treatment. I *think* this was simply due to me overfilling the sump in an attempt to keep oil pressure during braking, but have yet to fully diag this incredibly annoying and hazardous issue. At least the oil leaks on the cold side of the bay now, away from all the hot firey stuff.

The alternator fix lasted for all of 1.5 sessions Sunday. First session was a complete mess due to the lead car(we were back to doing full course TT) doing an absolutely atrocious "gap" lap, being caught and holding up the entire pack into T2, and then I got a little overzealous into sinkhole and had a close encounter with the outside wall, as shown in the end of my "recap" video. Per SCCA rules, any 4-off invalidates your times from that ENTIRE session, so I tried to shed the grass off my bumper for a lap then brought it right in.


Session 2 I had clear track and had just started my flier when I saw battery voltage drop to 12.2 volt- the charging system had peaced out for good and my dash shut down with it. I threw down a mediocre 2:11 lap on battery power that would secure my P3 slot in Unlimited 1, then rolled it right onto the trailer before something ELSE could break. All told I put down 2 total laps Sunday. So yeah. I could use a TON more seat time at NCM.
Whos that goober, awkwardly clapping out of reflex for his own podium? At least I'm not the guy that inadvertently flips off the camera while trying to hold onto all his trophies...



So yeah. That was a week. It was a good week, yeah. I was really disappointed with how finicky the car behaved. Oil leaks, charging issues, boost control issues(christ, I didn't even get into that...) overheating... Between keeping my own car running and lending a hand to other cars around the paddock I was quite busy. Definitely something that could be improved. Just like my driving...

At least the car looks dam good at speed. MUH FITMENT

mr20turbo

NCM is our local club's track. I refuse to put my car on it. Props to everyone willing to turn a quick lap on it.

Sounds like a rough weekend, good job salvaging it. Tires are important.

bigben

I won't be able to ''unsee'' that fitment, 295s on 15x11s are definetly a must from now on
Man that looks like a lot of work for a few laps, well done!

Gee Emm

Yeah, if you want to turn in good lap times, good tyres are not an option, they are what will make it happen. As a racer on a budget, my budget always ran to the gun tyre for my competition. Fortunately it was good down to the cords, so I got as much life out of them as they had to give.

Good to see you on the podium, well done!!

doward

Teehee

Nice recovery man. 2:10 is flying.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Do a leak down, your engine is tired.

TL;DR: nice laps!

Love your car and setup, I just want to put the front air dam in the garbage and give your car to my coworker for a day or two (the gaps at the edges are killing me), then give you $1000/weekend for tires.

Wingman703

Let me put it this way. I've sold all but one set of my 9.5" wide wheels(which will probably be retained for street/wet tires). I will retain my set of 15x10's, but whenever I get a new set...(oh, and I'm fairly sure those were 12's, as when I joked about buying them from Briggs, he rapidly said they weren't for sale)
I think your doing yourself a disservice. Its one of the funnest, if most challenging tracks I've been on.
Thank you curly. Someone called it one of the "Miata hero cars" at NCM, and I did a double take... Its an underfunded, overdriven, speed taped shitbox that is stupidly fun to drive and makes the driver look halfway decent.
If the leakdown is in reference to it barfing oil, I don't think leaky rings are the issue. Compression numbers are solid, and oil burn is minimal. I think I just repeatedly overfilled it and it protested.
The airdam is one of the many, many items on the car that needs an overhaul. I used to have wickers attached to the splitter to cover that dam to wheel gap, but they ejected themselves over the years.

Speaking of many items on the car that need overhaul, I figured out why I was having boost control issues at NCM(street tuned up to 20PSI a week before, NCM struggled to hold 12-14PSI). I wondered where all that bronze colored dust on the hot side of the bay was coming from...


Apparently the wastegate rod was sideloaded and scraped away at the rod guide. Big 'ol leak under the diaphragm, EBC could only get my 7psi spring to hold 12-14psi. I found a brass spacer in the parts bins at work, drilled a wastegate rod sized hole in it, and epoxied it inside the can to give the rod a new sealing surface.
Juuuust to be sure, I also swapped the 7psi spring for a 14psi spring in preparation for Road Atlanta first week of November.

Kpower: "Our oil pans sit level with the bottom of the subframe, so no need to worry about hitting them!"
"We've run our racecar like that for years and don't have any issues, so you don't have issues, you just imagine them!"™


Nice 1/4" deep dent into the bottom of the pan. I don't even remember hitting anything or bottoming out like that, but it wasn't there before NCM so...
I guess fair's fair, it did apparently take a hell of a wack and isn't leaking(from there, and those drops are water), but ulgh. I'm half a step away from building my own pan, or heavily modifying theirs just like I did for the front sump.

Anyway. Gnashed my teeth over a the new dent in my oilpan. "fixed" my wastegate can. Pulled off the intake, fixed the wiring issue that took out two alternators(first wiring issue I've had on this car to date!). Went to start the car to function check and... it... doesn't... start? wtf? I drove it onto the trailer at NCM, pushed it off the trailer once home, used the starter to bump it into the garage and now its acting all stupid. Eventually with ample amounts of throttle it fires to life, but sounds horrible, like it's running on two cylinders. Swapping new plugs/coils in doesn't make a difference. Break out the laptop, everything works fine in test mode. Fire it up again... oh, still at 94kPa when running, ok, just have the mother of all vacuum leaks I guess? Spend two days replacing vacuum lines, manually testing the baro sensor in the MS, trying to figure out why it both runs like a two stroke, and doesn't make vacuum... Eventually a track buddy tells me it sounds like the timing is off, but I know this can't possibly be the cause... right?

****.
Apparently sometime during turning my last lap at NCM and bumping it into the garage, the tensioner failed and the intake cam slipped 6 teeth worth. Cause, the ratchet on the tensioner just wore out.
Note the rounded edge on the failed tensioner, allowing the piston to retracted and the chain to loosen.


Compared to the nice and pointy edge on the spare OE tensioner I had on the shelf:


This is only supposed to be an issue for people with big cams... which I don't have, still stock Z3 cams. So
There's a handful of aftermarket tensioners on the market, but they all state they don't fit the K24Z3. No idea on the differences, or if they just haven't been tested for fitment. Another issue to solve for the off season...
Anyway. A (used) OE tensioner thrown in, timing covers sealed back up, and she fired up like normal. I opted to not compression check after that. If some valves are bent a smidge, I'm not fixing it in a week, and there's only one event left for this year. What I don't know definitely can't hurt me, right?

Its only got to last for a half hour or so of lapping, and plan is to run allofit. I, no context, asked someone to pick a number between 200 and 340... so it was decided. For reference, the car made its 400whp/380tq numbers at 210kPa and 71% injector DC, and I didn't tune it past 220kPa on the dyno.



160mph down the back straight of Road Atlanta, a melted piston, warp speed time travel, yet another 2nd place finish, major aero part failure, or exploded 4th gear, which happens first? Find out first weekend of November in this exciting conclusion to my 2023 season!

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

This thread is one of my favorites. Keep up the good work. 300+kpa through a k series must be insane. Is that just your overboost setting, or have you modified your boost targets?

Wingman703

Currently targeting a "conservative" 270kPa, up from the previous target of 220kPa. If the clutch holds that much, I'll up that target to 300kPa for the final day of competition. I honestly suspect that I'll run out of injector DC or clutch before I can hit those higher numbers though, but only one way to find out.
​​​​And yeah, it sounds narly even at 220kpa. I suspect it's going to be a traction battle in 4th gear with the upped targets(previously 3rd struggled, but 4th hooked up fine)which should be fun as RA is going to be primary a 4/5/6 track, with maaaaybe one short drop to 3rd for T7.

doward

hmmmm, I wonder why?

Oh. Found it.

OptionXIII

Things like that oil pan dent, and blown up ACT being a not irregular thing on tracked K swaps, is exactly the sort of issues that have prevented me from following up on my multi year yearning for more power. Even one of the best swap kits out there still has issues that to me, just represent too much compromise. Pay to play involves more than just your wallet, and while I'll spend the cash I haven't yet been willing to pony up the other costs.

Awesome stuff dude. Keep pushing the limits.