Built 1996 Turbo Track Weapon
12-19-2020, 10:38 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 8
Built 1996 Turbo Track Weapon
Cormier Miata Build Sheet – Built 1996 Miata
FOR SALE:$14,500 ($16,500 - $2,000 engine allowance) New price: $12,500 ($14,500 minus $2,000 engine allowance)
Located in Dallas, TX 75225
Pics: https://www.flickr.com/gp/191210382@N07/3oM324
After 6 years I'm selling my bad *** track miata and replaced it with a 2019 Camaro ZL1 1LE. Last track event was September 2020. I'm getting old and tired of trailering the car. Nice to drive to and from the track with just a helmet, cooler and a few tools. NOT PARTING THIS CAR!!
I am the 3rd owner of this turbo Miata. It started life as a spec Miata, but was soon converted to a FlyinMiata turbo car in 2011 with all the necessary go fast goodies for an endurance race car. It is a sister car to a turbo miata Keith Verges used at 25 hrs at Thunderhill many moons ago. It was never raced with the turbo and has spent its life as a DE track car. It is not street legal in its current configuration. I purchased the car in October 2014 and made significant upgrades. This car is extremely fast and well sorted. A no compromise track car with reliability and safety at its core.
Last Dyno’d on 11/1/2019 (Dynojet at MER, Cresson): 215whp and 186wtq to the wheels at 9.5psi. Significantly more headroom for power. This is a conservative tune by design. To pound the sh_t out of it with confidence.
Major overhaul with fully built engine finished 4/19. This is not the original engine. I know it was replaced at least once, about a year before I purchased it from my friend. Joe Gibbs BR30 break in oil and proper break in performed. The tune on this car is very linear. It doesn’t actually feel like a turbo car. No noticeable lag. No sudden rush of boost. It is designed for drivability on a road-course. At various stages of build the car was dyno tuned by Steve Kan of PRT Performance, a well-known tuner here in Texas. His shop and dyna are located in Lewisville, but he travels all over the world tuning cars. PRT Performance | Lewisville Performance Shop | Dallas Auto Services | Dyno Tuning. Other tuning performed by Alex Burian and MER.
Most of the performance development on this car has been performed by Alex Burian and John Wagliardo. Both are experienced miata mechanics, tuners and racers. Miata’s are their personal cars, including a turbo miata pushing 350hp. The car is currently under the care of the guys at MER in Cresson, on the property of Motorsport Ranch race track.
2,273 lbs without driver, 5/8 tank of fuel and an empty Cool suit cooler in trunk.
The Bad
• Not perfect repair on driver door from likely SM contact from before 2011
• Frame rails flattened in spots
• Small crack on inside panel of hardtop
• Cylinder #3 has what appears to be slight piston slap. Ticking noise and a little oil fouling on plug. ($2,000 engine allowance)
The Good
• Everything else
MODIFICATIONS (anything prior to 2014 came with the car)
Engine & related
Flyin Miata air box, semi-sealed box, with filter – 4/15
Removed both pop-up headlights – driver side converted to CAI box, fed by Naca duct on light lid – 4/15
Flyin Miata II Turbo system with gt2560r turbo - 2011
Flyin Miata hard lines for turbo water supply- 4/19
Flyin Miata hard lines for Turbo oil drain – 4/19
Kinugawa actuator – 8/15
Straight pipe exhaust, no muffler – heat wrapped – 8/16
M-Tuned Coolant re-route kit – 4/15
Oil catch can – unknown brand - 2011
Walbro fuel pump 190 – 6/16
RC 550 injectors – 2011 (professionally cleaned 2015)
TSE Coil on Plug kit – 6/16
AWR cross-flow radiator with single fan – 2011
Koyorad radiator cap 1.3 bar – 18.9 psi – 4/15
Stant 185 thermostat – 4/15
TrackDogRacing air-to-air intercooler 16x8x3 aluminum made for FMII turbo kits - 2011
LRB radiator air diversion panel - 2011
Hydra EMS 2.7 – updated 4/15
FM Oil filter relocation kit - 2011
Setrab 50-625-7612 25-row series 6 oil cooler (9.25x7.5x2 core dimensions) mounted behind radiator - 2011
Ingersoll Rand programmable boost controller – 2011 (not currently connected – running straight off of wastegate)
CP forged pistons 83mm/9:1 SC7540 – 4/19 (block was in perfect shape – no need to hone)
Manley forged connecting rods – 4/19
APR Head studs – 4/19
Supermiata valve seats – 4/19
Wiseco rings – 4/19
New water pump – 4/19
New oil pump – 4/19
Supermiata oil pan baffle – 4/19
ACL main bearings – 4/19
ACL rod bearings – 4/19
ACL Race thrust bearings – 4/19
New timing belt – 4/19
All new seals and gaskets
Interior
Ultra Shield racing seat (driver) with halo, and custom made, adjustable roll cage bracket - 3/13
Ultra Shield racing seat (passenger - open design) – 3/13
AIM MXL Pista Digital display and race data acquisition – 3/13
Sensors: Oil temp, water temp, EGT, speed, knock, oil pressure, battery, GPS
AEM boost gauge – 2/2020 (replaced unknown brand of boost gauge)
AEM air/fuel gauge – 6/17
NRG Innovations Gen 2.5 quick release (SRK-250), rose gold body and ring, with 2 (20mm) NRG spacers (total of 40mm) – 6/19
Momo Mod 78 steering wheel – alcantara 350 mm – 6/15
Steering lock drilled out - 2011
Clutch interlock bypass - 2011
Long acre convex rearview mirror – 6/17
New OEM glass windshield – 6/17
Teamtech Rampac Harnesses camlock 5-pt (driver and passenger) – new December 2018
Coolshirt emergency safety pull release connectors – 6/20
Full custom roll cage – 2009 (car was a spec miata before upgrades started in 2011)
5x racing air bag delete cover – 5/15
5x racing floor pan grip plate – 5/15
Exterior
15x10 Konig Dekagram wheels (purchased new 1/19) et 25 – 3/19 with 245x40x15 Maxxis Victra RC-1 – tire Manufacture date 4118. About 40% tread remaining.
15x10 6UL (purchased lightly used 3/19) et25 Tungsten – 5/19 with 245x40x15 G-force Rival - Manufacture date 3017
Cut fenders and carbon miata fender flares – 4/19
Supermiata forged alloy 19mm lug nuts – 6/19
Flyin miata hood louvers and custom vented bumper and hood – 10/14
Left Lane Designs lower fender vents – 1/20
TDR dual hood lift kit – 10/14
Cut rear bumper – 3/16
Gloss white paint respray exterior and interior – not perfect but really good overall – 4/13
Plasti dip paint scheme over white paint. Great protection for paint for the last 5 years – 7 different paint schemes from 11/14 – 5/19. Fun way to change it up.
Led 3rd brake light conversion – with 3 second flasher – 3/18
Flat floor from subframe to R spoiler – ½” birch – 4/19
Adjustable splitter attached to flat floor – ½” birch – 4/19
Blackbird adjustable plexi trunk spoiler – 4/19
OEM hardtop with oem glass, white – pre 2011
Naca duct vented quarter windows – mother natures AC
Drivetrain
6-speed from 2001 – unknown miles, but professionally rebuilt 5/18 by Wagliardo
MiataRoadster shifter kit – 5/18
3.9 diff – 5/18
TDR ppf power brace – 7/15
ACT Stage 1 heavy duty organic clutch – 4/19 (1,800 miles)
ACT prolite steel lightweight flywheel – 4/19 (1,800 miles)
E30 front hub conversion – Racer kit with Timken bearings and Bimmerworld extended studs – 7/19
MR2 rear hub conversion with Timken bearings and ARP extended stud – 7/19
Suspension
Gen 2 xida coilovers 800/500 – 5/16
Needle thrust bearing set – 5/16
Supermiata coaxial billet top mounts – 5/16
Energy suspension bushing kit with zerks grease fittings – 5/16
Prothane Diff bushing kit – 5/16
Blackbird engine drop mounts – race version
Supermiata end links – 5/16
Supermiata sway bar kit (front Racing Beat tubular) 1.125” x .188 wall (54107) 2-hole – 5/16
Rear sway 15mm 5x racing 3-hole – 3/15
AWR front sway bar reinforcement braces – 4/19
Supermiata front end service kit (UBJ, LBJ, OTR – 2,500 miles since refresh) – 3/17
Extended ball joints 3/20
Brakes
Wilwood 7112 Dynalite front caliper - 5/16
Wilwood 11” front rotors – 4/19
Wilwood rotor hats – 5/16
Rear oem sport brakes – 5/16
Carbotech xp10 front/xp8 rear
Wilwood brake proportioning valve with remote adjuster in dash – 5/16
3” Brake ducts with hose from R front spoiler – 4/19
Flyin Miata master cylinder brace – 3/15
Steel braided brake lines – 5/16
OEM Sport non-abs booster and new master cylinder – 4/19
Misc
Professionally depowered rack – 5/16
Exhaust/transmission tunnel heat shielding – 4/19
Compression - test 3/13/2020
#1 190
#2 180
#3 175
#4 185
Suspension settings – 3/13/2020 alignment with new alignment bolts
Camber: LF -3.5 RF -3.5
LR -2.8 RR -2.8
Toe: F 0 R +3/16
Caster: L 6.0 R 6.1
Corner Balanced 3/13/2020 – 2,485 with driver (185) with 9/10ths fuel
LF 684 RF 639
LR 605 RR 557
Cross 50.3%
Sorted on track – by Darin George, owner of MER at Motorsport Ranch Cresson (1.7ccw), 3/13/2020
78 degrees on a green track, 50% life tires (Maxxis RC1), Carbotech xp10f xp8r
Best lap time before alignment and sorting (baseline) 1:24:50
1. Best lap session 1 after alignment and corner balance 1:23:70
2. Best lap session 2 after adjusting brake bias, tire pressures, and shock settings 1:23:10
3. Best lap session 3 after adjusting brake bias, tire pressures, and shock settings 1:22:90
*SM fast lap same conditions: 1:26
FOR SALE:
Located in Dallas, TX 75225
Pics: https://www.flickr.com/gp/191210382@N07/3oM324
After 6 years I'm selling my bad *** track miata and replaced it with a 2019 Camaro ZL1 1LE. Last track event was September 2020. I'm getting old and tired of trailering the car. Nice to drive to and from the track with just a helmet, cooler and a few tools. NOT PARTING THIS CAR!!
I am the 3rd owner of this turbo Miata. It started life as a spec Miata, but was soon converted to a FlyinMiata turbo car in 2011 with all the necessary go fast goodies for an endurance race car. It is a sister car to a turbo miata Keith Verges used at 25 hrs at Thunderhill many moons ago. It was never raced with the turbo and has spent its life as a DE track car. It is not street legal in its current configuration. I purchased the car in October 2014 and made significant upgrades. This car is extremely fast and well sorted. A no compromise track car with reliability and safety at its core.
Last Dyno’d on 11/1/2019 (Dynojet at MER, Cresson): 215whp and 186wtq to the wheels at 9.5psi. Significantly more headroom for power. This is a conservative tune by design. To pound the sh_t out of it with confidence.
Major overhaul with fully built engine finished 4/19. This is not the original engine. I know it was replaced at least once, about a year before I purchased it from my friend. Joe Gibbs BR30 break in oil and proper break in performed. The tune on this car is very linear. It doesn’t actually feel like a turbo car. No noticeable lag. No sudden rush of boost. It is designed for drivability on a road-course. At various stages of build the car was dyno tuned by Steve Kan of PRT Performance, a well-known tuner here in Texas. His shop and dyna are located in Lewisville, but he travels all over the world tuning cars. PRT Performance | Lewisville Performance Shop | Dallas Auto Services | Dyno Tuning. Other tuning performed by Alex Burian and MER.
Most of the performance development on this car has been performed by Alex Burian and John Wagliardo. Both are experienced miata mechanics, tuners and racers. Miata’s are their personal cars, including a turbo miata pushing 350hp. The car is currently under the care of the guys at MER in Cresson, on the property of Motorsport Ranch race track.
2,273 lbs without driver, 5/8 tank of fuel and an empty Cool suit cooler in trunk.
The Bad
• Not perfect repair on driver door from likely SM contact from before 2011
• Frame rails flattened in spots
• Small crack on inside panel of hardtop
• Cylinder #3 has what appears to be slight piston slap. Ticking noise and a little oil fouling on plug. ($2,000 engine allowance)
The Good
• Everything else
MODIFICATIONS (anything prior to 2014 came with the car)
Engine & related
Flyin Miata air box, semi-sealed box, with filter – 4/15
Removed both pop-up headlights – driver side converted to CAI box, fed by Naca duct on light lid – 4/15
Flyin Miata II Turbo system with gt2560r turbo - 2011
Flyin Miata hard lines for turbo water supply- 4/19
Flyin Miata hard lines for Turbo oil drain – 4/19
Kinugawa actuator – 8/15
Straight pipe exhaust, no muffler – heat wrapped – 8/16
M-Tuned Coolant re-route kit – 4/15
Oil catch can – unknown brand - 2011
Walbro fuel pump 190 – 6/16
RC 550 injectors – 2011 (professionally cleaned 2015)
TSE Coil on Plug kit – 6/16
AWR cross-flow radiator with single fan – 2011
Koyorad radiator cap 1.3 bar – 18.9 psi – 4/15
Stant 185 thermostat – 4/15
TrackDogRacing air-to-air intercooler 16x8x3 aluminum made for FMII turbo kits - 2011
LRB radiator air diversion panel - 2011
Hydra EMS 2.7 – updated 4/15
FM Oil filter relocation kit - 2011
Setrab 50-625-7612 25-row series 6 oil cooler (9.25x7.5x2 core dimensions) mounted behind radiator - 2011
Ingersoll Rand programmable boost controller – 2011 (not currently connected – running straight off of wastegate)
CP forged pistons 83mm/9:1 SC7540 – 4/19 (block was in perfect shape – no need to hone)
Manley forged connecting rods – 4/19
APR Head studs – 4/19
Supermiata valve seats – 4/19
Wiseco rings – 4/19
New water pump – 4/19
New oil pump – 4/19
Supermiata oil pan baffle – 4/19
ACL main bearings – 4/19
ACL rod bearings – 4/19
ACL Race thrust bearings – 4/19
New timing belt – 4/19
All new seals and gaskets
Interior
Ultra Shield racing seat (driver) with halo, and custom made, adjustable roll cage bracket - 3/13
Ultra Shield racing seat (passenger - open design) – 3/13
AIM MXL Pista Digital display and race data acquisition – 3/13
Sensors: Oil temp, water temp, EGT, speed, knock, oil pressure, battery, GPS
AEM boost gauge – 2/2020 (replaced unknown brand of boost gauge)
AEM air/fuel gauge – 6/17
NRG Innovations Gen 2.5 quick release (SRK-250), rose gold body and ring, with 2 (20mm) NRG spacers (total of 40mm) – 6/19
Momo Mod 78 steering wheel – alcantara 350 mm – 6/15
Steering lock drilled out - 2011
Clutch interlock bypass - 2011
Long acre convex rearview mirror – 6/17
New OEM glass windshield – 6/17
Teamtech Rampac Harnesses camlock 5-pt (driver and passenger) – new December 2018
Coolshirt emergency safety pull release connectors – 6/20
Full custom roll cage – 2009 (car was a spec miata before upgrades started in 2011)
5x racing air bag delete cover – 5/15
5x racing floor pan grip plate – 5/15
Exterior
15x10 Konig Dekagram wheels (purchased new 1/19) et 25 – 3/19 with 245x40x15 Maxxis Victra RC-1 – tire Manufacture date 4118. About 40% tread remaining.
15x10 6UL (purchased lightly used 3/19) et25 Tungsten – 5/19 with 245x40x15 G-force Rival - Manufacture date 3017
Cut fenders and carbon miata fender flares – 4/19
Supermiata forged alloy 19mm lug nuts – 6/19
Flyin miata hood louvers and custom vented bumper and hood – 10/14
Left Lane Designs lower fender vents – 1/20
TDR dual hood lift kit – 10/14
Cut rear bumper – 3/16
Gloss white paint respray exterior and interior – not perfect but really good overall – 4/13
Plasti dip paint scheme over white paint. Great protection for paint for the last 5 years – 7 different paint schemes from 11/14 – 5/19. Fun way to change it up.
Led 3rd brake light conversion – with 3 second flasher – 3/18
Flat floor from subframe to R spoiler – ½” birch – 4/19
Adjustable splitter attached to flat floor – ½” birch – 4/19
Blackbird adjustable plexi trunk spoiler – 4/19
OEM hardtop with oem glass, white – pre 2011
Naca duct vented quarter windows – mother natures AC
Drivetrain
6-speed from 2001 – unknown miles, but professionally rebuilt 5/18 by Wagliardo
MiataRoadster shifter kit – 5/18
3.9 diff – 5/18
TDR ppf power brace – 7/15
ACT Stage 1 heavy duty organic clutch – 4/19 (1,800 miles)
ACT prolite steel lightweight flywheel – 4/19 (1,800 miles)
E30 front hub conversion – Racer kit with Timken bearings and Bimmerworld extended studs – 7/19
MR2 rear hub conversion with Timken bearings and ARP extended stud – 7/19
Suspension
Gen 2 xida coilovers 800/500 – 5/16
Needle thrust bearing set – 5/16
Supermiata coaxial billet top mounts – 5/16
Energy suspension bushing kit with zerks grease fittings – 5/16
Prothane Diff bushing kit – 5/16
Blackbird engine drop mounts – race version
Supermiata end links – 5/16
Supermiata sway bar kit (front Racing Beat tubular) 1.125” x .188 wall (54107) 2-hole – 5/16
Rear sway 15mm 5x racing 3-hole – 3/15
AWR front sway bar reinforcement braces – 4/19
Supermiata front end service kit (UBJ, LBJ, OTR – 2,500 miles since refresh) – 3/17
Extended ball joints 3/20
Brakes
Wilwood 7112 Dynalite front caliper - 5/16
Wilwood 11” front rotors – 4/19
Wilwood rotor hats – 5/16
Rear oem sport brakes – 5/16
Carbotech xp10 front/xp8 rear
Wilwood brake proportioning valve with remote adjuster in dash – 5/16
3” Brake ducts with hose from R front spoiler – 4/19
Flyin Miata master cylinder brace – 3/15
Steel braided brake lines – 5/16
OEM Sport non-abs booster and new master cylinder – 4/19
Misc
Professionally depowered rack – 5/16
Exhaust/transmission tunnel heat shielding – 4/19
Compression - test 3/13/2020
#1 190
#2 180
#3 175
#4 185
Suspension settings – 3/13/2020 alignment with new alignment bolts
Camber: LF -3.5 RF -3.5
LR -2.8 RR -2.8
Toe: F 0 R +3/16
Caster: L 6.0 R 6.1
Corner Balanced 3/13/2020 – 2,485 with driver (185) with 9/10ths fuel
LF 684 RF 639
LR 605 RR 557
Cross 50.3%
Sorted on track – by Darin George, owner of MER at Motorsport Ranch Cresson (1.7ccw), 3/13/2020
78 degrees on a green track, 50% life tires (Maxxis RC1), Carbotech xp10f xp8r
Best lap time before alignment and sorting (baseline) 1:24:50
1. Best lap session 1 after alignment and corner balance 1:23:70
2. Best lap session 2 after adjusting brake bias, tire pressures, and shock settings 1:23:10
3. Best lap session 3 after adjusting brake bias, tire pressures, and shock settings 1:22:90
*SM fast lap same conditions: 1:26
Last edited by pcormier66; 05-03-2022 at 11:46 AM.
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0
0
12-26-2020, 12:36 PM
#3
Newb
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 6
Total Cats: 0
Hey "pcormier66"
I'm shopping for a track ready Miata.
And, I like the specifics you listed in your post.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
1. You mentioned being tired of "having to trailer it."
I also think it would be a LOT better to be able to drive it to the track.
What changes would it take, ... in order for me to make the car street-legal?
Please email me a list the changes necessary to pass State Inspection.
2. Do any parts, wheels, tires, etc., or any other extras come with the car?
If so, ... then please send me a list.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
Thanks! Jeff
(757) 503 - 0558. cell
jeffrey.schaffer.2@us.af.mil
I'm shopping for a track ready Miata.
And, I like the specifics you listed in your post.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
1. You mentioned being tired of "having to trailer it."
I also think it would be a LOT better to be able to drive it to the track.
What changes would it take, ... in order for me to make the car street-legal?
Please email me a list the changes necessary to pass State Inspection.
2. Do any parts, wheels, tires, etc., or any other extras come with the car?
If so, ... then please send me a list.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
Thanks! Jeff
(757) 503 - 0558. cell
jeffrey.schaffer.2@us.af.mil
Reply
0
0
12-26-2020, 12:39 PM
#4
Newb
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 6
Total Cats: 0
Hey "pcormier66"
I'm shopping for a track ready Miata.
And, I like the specifics you listed in your post.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
1. You mentioned being tired of "having to trailer it."
I also think it would be a LOT better to be able to drive it to the track.
What changes would it take, ... in order for me to make the car street-legal?
Please email me a list the changes necessary to pass State Inspection.
2. Do any parts, wheels, tires, etc., or any other extras come with the car?
If so, ... then please send me a list.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
Thanks! Jeff
(757) 503 - 0558.
I'm shopping for a track ready Miata.
And, I like the specifics you listed in your post.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
1. You mentioned being tired of "having to trailer it."
I also think it would be a LOT better to be able to drive it to the track.
What changes would it take, ... in order for me to make the car street-legal?
Please email me a list the changes necessary to pass State Inspection.
2. Do any parts, wheels, tires, etc., or any other extras come with the car?
If so, ... then please send me a list.
Anyway, if you still have it for sale, ... then Please call me.
Thanks! Jeff
(757) 503 - 0558.
Reply
0
0
12-26-2020, 07:53 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 8
Jeff, thanks for your interest. There are benefits to trailering a car. You don't need to make any adjustments to suspension settings, tire pressures, brake pads, change wheels and tires, etc. And of course if the car breaks, or you get a flat, you have a means to get home. My issue is my trailer is in storage about a 30 minute drive from my home. Not very convenient. And I'm getting old and lazy.
Certainly there are also benefits to driving to track, then on track, then home. No need to hassle with loading/unloading is a big one. But I still tow a small trailer with a set of track wheels/tires, basic tools, jack, etc. It's not hassle free.
I don't know what your specific laws are for inspection but here is a basic list of what you would need to do at a minimum
1. Reinstall headlights - I have both assemblies, motors and lamps. Brake lights and turns signals are in working order.
2. Muffler and catalytic converter - my car has an open exhaust that dumps out just in front of the rear axle
3. Horn. My steering wheel has the center button and wires for it but the horn itself is missing
This is a list of other considerations you should think about or research
A. Full roll cage on the street, without a helmet, could be a little dangerous should you have a collision. Metal pipe is not very forgiving. But if you are strapped in tight, that may not be an issue for you
B. You may need to have the OEM seatbelts. You would need to research this for your area. I do not have the OEM seat belts
C. The racing seats are very comfortable for short durations - 45 minutes. A moderate to long road trip might get uncomfortable. There is not much padding. Not to mention the high spring rates. This is a suspension designed for the smooth surface of a race track.
D. The drivers seat is a containment style. You have limited sight lines. Great for racing and DE's, not so much on the street
E. No heater. I've removed the heater core and all the ducting from behind the dash. No AC should be a given.
F. With the cool suit cooler in the trunk, there is very limited storage. Even without the cooler it's limited.
G. The wipers work, and have new blades, but the washer jets, motor and reservoir have been removed.
H. OEM speedometer has been removed. However, the AIM dash unit has a speed sensor. Sensor somehow got tangled around the axle and ripped the end off. I have a new sensor and wire ready for install.
In my opinion, trailering this car is the way to go. But no harm in it being street legal. If you are still interested I'd be happy to call you tomorrow.
Philip
Certainly there are also benefits to driving to track, then on track, then home. No need to hassle with loading/unloading is a big one. But I still tow a small trailer with a set of track wheels/tires, basic tools, jack, etc. It's not hassle free.
I don't know what your specific laws are for inspection but here is a basic list of what you would need to do at a minimum
1. Reinstall headlights - I have both assemblies, motors and lamps. Brake lights and turns signals are in working order.
2. Muffler and catalytic converter - my car has an open exhaust that dumps out just in front of the rear axle
3. Horn. My steering wheel has the center button and wires for it but the horn itself is missing
This is a list of other considerations you should think about or research
A. Full roll cage on the street, without a helmet, could be a little dangerous should you have a collision. Metal pipe is not very forgiving. But if you are strapped in tight, that may not be an issue for you
B. You may need to have the OEM seatbelts. You would need to research this for your area. I do not have the OEM seat belts
C. The racing seats are very comfortable for short durations - 45 minutes. A moderate to long road trip might get uncomfortable. There is not much padding. Not to mention the high spring rates. This is a suspension designed for the smooth surface of a race track.
D. The drivers seat is a containment style. You have limited sight lines. Great for racing and DE's, not so much on the street
E. No heater. I've removed the heater core and all the ducting from behind the dash. No AC should be a given.
F. With the cool suit cooler in the trunk, there is very limited storage. Even without the cooler it's limited.
G. The wipers work, and have new blades, but the washer jets, motor and reservoir have been removed.
H. OEM speedometer has been removed. However, the AIM dash unit has a speed sensor. Sensor somehow got tangled around the axle and ripped the end off. I have a new sensor and wire ready for install.
In my opinion, trailering this car is the way to go. But no harm in it being street legal. If you are still interested I'd be happy to call you tomorrow.
Philip
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0
12-26-2020, 08:09 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 8
Jeff, forgot to answer your last question. Car comes with everything listed, including both sets of wheels and tires. I do have a list of parts I was planning to sell that you are welcome to. We could work a deal on those.
OEM Coil - new in box (but I have converted to COP so the OEM coil is useless)
Mazdaspeed competition motor mounts - only a few hundred miles on them
4.10 diff
Stock NA front calipers
Front SS brake lines
Manual in-cabin boost controller - Turbosmart
Kmiata diff arm reinforcement plates - new in box
Miatacage padded front glass carrying case with a set of front windows you can use for storage or transport
20mm steering wheel spacer - new in box
Toyota coils - set of 4. My replacement set identical to the COP currently installed.
Odds and ends like a few different sized sway bars for front and rear, used rotors, many of the parts I removed from the car to save weight, some seals, washers, various nuts and bolts, used brake pads with meat on them.
OEM Coil - new in box (but I have converted to COP so the OEM coil is useless)
Mazdaspeed competition motor mounts - only a few hundred miles on them
4.10 diff
Stock NA front calipers
Front SS brake lines
Manual in-cabin boost controller - Turbosmart
Kmiata diff arm reinforcement plates - new in box
Miatacage padded front glass carrying case with a set of front windows you can use for storage or transport
20mm steering wheel spacer - new in box
Toyota coils - set of 4. My replacement set identical to the COP currently installed.
Odds and ends like a few different sized sway bars for front and rear, used rotors, many of the parts I removed from the car to save weight, some seals, washers, various nuts and bolts, used brake pads with meat on them.
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12-29-2020, 09:55 AM
#7
Newb
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 6
Total Cats: 0
Phillip, Hello and Good-Morning!
Wow, you write an awesome Email response. :^)
Organized, complete, succinct, and informative.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to write.
And, I’m sorry for my delayed reply.
But, this is my office Email address.
And, … today is my first day back in my office.
1. I’d agree about the pros and cons related to trailering.
My trailers are stored at home, so no “30 min drives” for me.
2. I appreciate the specific details related to getting the car a State inspection.
I think adding lights and a horn are the 2 issues that I’d address.
3. Reference your list of ‘other-considerations.’
A. Bumping my head on the roll cage is a concern.
How much head clearance do you have from the cage?
And, what size are you? Because, size may affect ‘my’ head clearance.
I’m 5’9” and 165 pounds.
B. I’ll check on the harness versus OEM seatbelt laws.
But, I’m pretty sure that a harness is legal, better, and safer.
C. True comments about seat padding and associated comfort.
I probably wouldn’t have thought of that.
And, also true about the ‘rough-ride’ due to stiff springs.
D. I’d agree that ‘limited-vision’ isn’t good when you’re driving on the street.
That issue kept me from buying the newest version of the Camaro.
E. Many people remove the heat and AC in order to reduce the vehicle weight.
But, I’d accept a weight ‘disadvantage’ in order to remain comfortable.
F. Miata cars don’t have much of a trunk, so adding ‘anything’ limits that area.
G. I’d prefer to be able to squirt and clean my windshield, especially in case of road dirt, oil, etc.,
Adding that capability wouldn’t add much weight and it would be fairly easy.
H. Any speed indicator would work for me.
I only need to be able to determine how fast I’m going.
Well, … there are somethings for me to consider and some others to tweak.
But, my ‘bottom-line’ is, … that I’m still interested.
Cheers! Jeff
Wow, you write an awesome Email response. :^)
Organized, complete, succinct, and informative.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to write.
And, I’m sorry for my delayed reply.
But, this is my office Email address.
And, … today is my first day back in my office.
1. I’d agree about the pros and cons related to trailering.
My trailers are stored at home, so no “30 min drives” for me.
2. I appreciate the specific details related to getting the car a State inspection.
I think adding lights and a horn are the 2 issues that I’d address.
3. Reference your list of ‘other-considerations.’
A. Bumping my head on the roll cage is a concern.
How much head clearance do you have from the cage?
And, what size are you? Because, size may affect ‘my’ head clearance.
I’m 5’9” and 165 pounds.
B. I’ll check on the harness versus OEM seatbelt laws.
But, I’m pretty sure that a harness is legal, better, and safer.
C. True comments about seat padding and associated comfort.
I probably wouldn’t have thought of that.
And, also true about the ‘rough-ride’ due to stiff springs.
D. I’d agree that ‘limited-vision’ isn’t good when you’re driving on the street.
That issue kept me from buying the newest version of the Camaro.
E. Many people remove the heat and AC in order to reduce the vehicle weight.
But, I’d accept a weight ‘disadvantage’ in order to remain comfortable.
F. Miata cars don’t have much of a trunk, so adding ‘anything’ limits that area.
G. I’d prefer to be able to squirt and clean my windshield, especially in case of road dirt, oil, etc.,
Adding that capability wouldn’t add much weight and it would be fairly easy.
H. Any speed indicator would work for me.
I only need to be able to determine how fast I’m going.
Well, … there are somethings for me to consider and some others to tweak.
But, my ‘bottom-line’ is, … that I’m still interested.
Cheers! Jeff
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0
01-22-2021, 12:11 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 8
I have an offer to purchase the engine, turbo setup, intercooler setup, oil cooler, etc. I'm curious if there is any interest in a rolling complete track car without an engine. Transmission would stay.
Price options
$14,500 with engine
$12,500 without engine. Perhaps there is someone who has a miata track car project in mind with an engine swap. This roller would be the perfect platform.
Price options
$14,500 with engine
$12,500 without engine. Perhaps there is someone who has a miata track car project in mind with an engine swap. This roller would be the perfect platform.
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05-03-2022, 11:44 AM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 88
Total Cats: 8
Bump - new price: $12,500 ($14,500 - $2,000 engine allowance). I have not actively tried to sell my baby. Wife is putting the pressure on. Willing to let this go fing cheap at $12,500. No change to the car since original post. It's been sitting covered on a trickle charger. Started right up in March 2020. Runs strong.
Perfect for:
1. Taking directly to the track for some fun
2. Spend the allowance to investigate the ticking then take directly to the track for some fun
3. Engine swap. Everything else is in place for any other motor you might dream up.
Not street legal. Bring a trailer. I would also consider selling my 16' open trailer with winch - $2,000
Perfect for:
1. Taking directly to the track for some fun
2. Spend the allowance to investigate the ticking then take directly to the track for some fun
3. Engine swap. Everything else is in place for any other motor you might dream up.
Not street legal. Bring a trailer. I would also consider selling my 16' open trailer with winch - $2,000
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Ryephile
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