codeman583

the Haltech is the E6k, and it is complete with the Harness all ready to roll. I may have to pose another thread regarding this alone as it does appear to be obscure. worst case I sell the Haltech and buy a MS system. I figure I could get what $500 out of the Haltech? they look to be $1000 new or thereabouts.

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a good idea to me. One of the first results on google was a dude on the Haltech forums selling one with a harness for $750obo. Although you may want to keep the connectors from the harness to make your MS harness.

I think now is a very exciting time to be getting in to MS with all the recent development in the MSExtra 2 code, especially the sequential code. I have been playing with MS1 for over a year now and having got it working pretty good (after a shakey start) I now feel like I'm starting from the beginning!!

codeman583

how much are the MS systems? what about the MSPNP? or? is this the best setup out there?

I didn't know the T28 was capable of that much power, I was going to be happy with around 200. I just want to spank some 5.0 stangs and send the rednecks here home with their tail between their legs.

also with the $142 Koyo radiators from partsgroup be enough to keep this cool? I figure for that price why leave any doubt? DO IT RIGHT!

looking for a good fair priced source for:

-ARP head studs, and head gasket
-bottom end rebuild kit... I am going with M-tuned rods so everything other then rod bearings
-gasket kits and seals.
-fuel pump to handle it for a reasonable price.

first motor build so I want to take the time to do it right, and not have a grenade under the hood, this will soon be my daily driver when I don't want to take the FJ60. or need to get good freeway mileage.

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

no, you dont need a damn turbo timer, theyre for ricers

codeman583

that has been my opinion for a long time... wondered what the heck they were for.

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

MS systems vary in price depending on how much of the work you do yourself MSPNP being the most expensive. Check out diyautotune for details. Oh and if you want to go for sequential injection then DIYPNP is probably your best/easiest bet.

Like I say power will depend on a lot of things but some people have seen 250 with the venerable old greddy.

The KOYO rad should do fine however, THOU SHALT DO A COOLANT REROUTE right? They're easy enough to do, $15 spacer from MOSS, $15 cover from a KIA and some piping.

codeman583

I thought I saw a DIY on here for the reroute. I will get that printed out, and pulled up, because I would be happy with 200-220 hp that is totally dead reliable, and no issues... so all these little sub $100 fixes and mods will be looked at to keep it running smooth and efficient.

Duckie_uk

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that before. I give it about a week before you are reaching for the MBC and telling your self "Its only one PSI, just one and only for a little while..I'll put it right back I swear" (queue manic laughter)

codeman583

thats why I am going to go ahead and spring for the m-tuned rods.... power is addictive.

codeman583

plans to get done this weekend.

-look for an old DOS based laptop to run the Haltech.
-strip the body off the front of the car; fenders, hood, front bumper/nose assembly.
-completely wash and pressure wash the car to get it clean for the build. degreasing underhood, and undercarriage.
-try and repair the damage to the drivers fender... $75 for a junkyard one, but that is $75 that I can put into an exhaust, stereo, toward a hardtop or whatever.
-try my hand at painting the hood using this method:
Home
Rickwrench, Alfa GTV, Falcon Squire, Corvair
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t37224-2/#post514561
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t5199/

not willing to shell out the big bucks when this is meant as a 50% daily driver, and 100% smile maker. more money for the performance.

I have rattle canned and gotten good results as well too, so I am more then happy putting in some elbow grease to save $1000+ and if it just looks like the Maaco $400-700 paint jobs then I think it is still money well saved.

Not sure what the color will be, may go with black then a flat bronze stripe, or white, or? going to try and stick with what the main colors are with Rustoleum as you can get them in the quart or rattle can, and have the same color code for touch-ups later, and the likelihood of them changing it is fairly thin I would think.

codeman583

Seems as there is some differences out there with people's setup's. I have searched and found loads of info, and am left with some questions...

1. Do I need a Manual or Electronic Boost Controller? would a EBAY $15 MBC do the trick or do I need something special?

2. with the setup I have would I want a 190LPH or 255LPH fuel pump?

3. turbo timers are waste of money rice rocket crap correct?

4. do I need a wideband? if so what brand and supplier?

5. other then what I asked anything else I should also consider?

please keep the flaming to a minimum, looking for some facts!

Thanks

Sparetire

These are IMO, but...

1) I used a Joe P MBC and loved it. It was a 30 something unit I bought online. MBCs are fine, especially on a budget. If you need something a bit more precise, they now sell little ceramic ***** for the typical MBC that allow it to respond much faster.

2) A 190 is fine for 90% of the people on here. No reason not to go with a 255 though IMO. Its not like it will hurt anything.

3) I just drive my car easy for the last few minutes befre shutting it down and let it idle a bit too. I live in PHX with a 24 psi 16G turbo VERY daily driven DSM and followed that rule and the turbo is still doing great and the engine now powers my buddies 1G. Turbo Timers are not a need IMO and you should defnitely spend the money elsewhere if you are on a budget.

4) The only two guages I put in my last project were a WB02 and a boost guage. IMHO a WB is the single most useful guage you can have for tuning. Often it will allow you to get your fueling and subsequently other aspects f your tune pretty close to optimal on the street and that can save you decent bucks in dyno time, which might pay for the WB right there. People here love the LC1s, I used a PLX SM-AFR with a DM5 guage and loved it. When I get off my *** and get a car its going right on there.

5) Consider reading about 2 million posts in here. Any fact I happen to have in my head is either from my last project or this site. I find it useful to look at what setups memebers have and how they feel about them. Let them invent the wheel. The "Hustler Regrets Thread" is a pretty good place to start, though it does have the effect of making me want nothing but the best parts, when in reality if you have modest goals basic hardware is going to do well.

rider384

iTrader: (3)

AHH! Don't sell those wheels, they're freakin' awesome! I just picked up a pair for 250 in good shape, though mine came off of an old school VW. I've seen 'em go for 500 restored and painted. And they look amazing on the Miata, don't sell them

chicksdigmiatas

iTrader: (11)

If you want, i have a sard turbo times, 30 shipped.

codeman583

all good info! I have been doing a lot of reading lately, so I just needed some clarification. no other turbo guys around here, so my main source of info is this site. and sometimes when reading through it its almost too much info.

I know, I am thinking of powdercoating them, and polishing the lip and keeping'em. I will look for another set of wheels/tires for autocross at another point.

6. What is a good budget FPR? can a person get away with the ebay special on this as well?
i.e. UNIVERSAL adjustable FUEL PRESSURE regulator CHROME new : eBay Motors (item 170460783825 end time Mar-27-10 22:56:48 PDT)

codeman583

ok to clarify

is there a Joe P version (quality yet inexpensive version) for an FPR?

also, anyone on here using the TRE Fuel Pumps? I have read a couple reviews where people liked them, and how quiet they were, can anyone here testify to them? Walbro is only $25 more... but the TRE has really good reviews online... user recommendations?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/255-L...item414d7c2a23

now all that being said can't a person get away with the stock fpr on injectors up to 550? I plan on running like 8-9 PSI until I can afford to build a good bottom end, so I want to keep the pressures down. would it be smarter to buy some midrange injectors like 360cc or something, and thenrun the stock FPR and fuel pump?

burrsg101

generally its a good idea to get a afpr when turboing ANY car that runs at a 1:1 ratio meaning 1 psi fuel increase per 1 psi boost increase. Factory turbo cars almost all run that way, and the higher pressure under boost will not only give better flow but better atomization. The TRE pumps are great. A 255lph tre doesnt flow quite as good in the higher pressures as a wally 255hp(high pressure) but you wont ever hit anything over like 50 or 60 psi anyway with a 1:1 fpr. I'm currently running a tre in my 1g dsm thats over 400 hp and it works great in there. Totally silent, flows well and I'm no where near maxing it.

codeman583

AFPR is Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator? anyone recommend a good one?

Sparetire

Many people call them FMUs in the Miata world, and some will raise fuel pressure at a greater than 1:1 raio with boost.

BEGI makes one, FM probably does too, I am sure there are a half dozen out there.

burrsg101

FMUs are different. They arent adjustable by just turning a screw like a afpr, they have special plates in them that have to be changed out to change the pressure, or the ratio that they increase at. With afprs all you have to do is turn the adjustment screw on the top and it raises base pressure. I've never heard of any afpr having a ratio of anything other than 1:1 because frankly running obnoxious amounts of fuel pressure isnt good for anything. I'm running a fuel lab afpr in my dsm and it works great and wasn't too pricey. There are others out there though, just do NOT buy one from ebay. There are good things on ebay but afprs are definitely not one. Same goes for there bovs.