Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats. (https://www.miataturbo.net/)
-   DIY Turbo Discussion (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/)
-   -   250-300WHP Build (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/250-300whp-build-99569/)

achulz 03-14-2019 12:17 PM

250-300WHP Build
 
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Jacobmx5_ 03-14-2019 12:32 PM

Only took you about a year to finally realize...

matrussell122 03-14-2019 12:47 PM

Dude seriously stop. You need to do a ton of reading on here still before you do anything.

https://mkturbo.com/9097NA8.html
  1. Buy the mkturbo complete kit and have him keep the ecu to save you some money.
  2. Buy the supermiata radiator and reroute
  3. Engine parts
    1. FM engine rebuild kit
    2. ARP head studs
    3. Manley or Eagle rods
    4. OEM pistons
    5. Damper of your choice
    6. Machine work if needed
Thats a start for a block rebuild and good affordable turbo kit that is proven.

TheScaryOne 03-14-2019 12:50 PM

Maybe you should let your engine shop decide whether you need undersize bearings or not. Also, "reman" heads are usually nightmares. I wouldn't trust that anything on it has been rebuilt correctly, or the valves shimmed right.

I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.

The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.

Just build the fuckin shortblock for fuck's sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.

matrussell122 03-14-2019 12:53 PM


Originally Posted by TheScaryOne (Post 1526624)
Maybe you should let your engine shop decide whether you need undersize bearings or not. Also, "reman" heads are usually nightmares. I wouldn't trust that anything on it has been rebuilt correctly, or the valves shimmed right.

I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.

The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.

Just build the fuckin shortblock for fuck's sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.

Strongly agree with this. If you are opening up the motor just build it right the first time with good components that way you dont have to later.

concealer404 03-14-2019 01:01 PM

It's awesome that after allllll this reading and posting you've done, you've come up with that parts list.

Top marks.

Savington 03-14-2019 01:02 PM

Two or three threads ago, we all told you that OEM gaskets were the only ones that were worth a damn. Now, you're telling us you're going to buy a bunch of Mahle gaskets.

It appears you do not listen to the advice you're given.

Why should we spend any time giving you advice here?

dleavitt 03-14-2019 01:07 PM


Originally Posted by achulz (Post 1526618)
Amazing lack of research

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd5668d350.gif

LukeG 03-14-2019 01:10 PM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0e26c2338e.gif

achulz 03-14-2019 01:20 PM

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concealer404 03-14-2019 01:21 PM

Sounds great have fun. Stop asking us for input please.

matrussell122 03-14-2019 01:23 PM

If you dont want to listen to our advice why even ask for it. We keep telling you what you plan to do is wrong and you insist that because you did it before it must be good.

Savington 03-14-2019 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by achulz (Post 1526637)
I understand OEM gaskets are best but Mahle is pretty reputable as far as I know

So not very far, then

ryansmoneypit 03-14-2019 02:12 PM

lol at this entire thread. What a f - ing waste of time suggesting anything beyond this point in time.

Morello 03-14-2019 02:27 PM

I love this place.

skylinecalvin 03-14-2019 02:38 PM


Originally Posted by achulz (Post 1526637)
... I think the FM rebuild kit is a little overpriced. $720 for the NB2 kit and it doesn't even come with rings? I understand OEM gaskets are best but Mahle is pretty reputable as far as I know, I've used their parts for other engine rebuilds and I have no complaints. That and I already have quite a few components on hand, so buying the FM rebuild kit would leave me spending a lot more money for things I don't need 2 of. I already bought their front timing component kit for instance.

Well, who said you needed to buy a kit? Buying the gaskets individually usually gets you the best price. You just gotta know what you need and don't need.

borka 03-14-2019 02:42 PM

Cxracing turbo kit? As in manifold, turbo, downpipe? Seriously???

Do you see a single person on this site running a cxracing turbo kit?
No? I wonder why that is....?

I know, I know, you know some ricer kids, who told you all their ricer friends run it. So it must be good.

But seriously, you know nothing, and you dont listed to good advise. Stop posting and go to a skidders forum.
They will all praise your turbo build choices.

achulz 03-14-2019 03:20 PM

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matrussell122 03-14-2019 03:24 PM

Might as well swap stock pistons for supertech and use arp rod and main bolts too.

Savington 03-14-2019 03:31 PM

Now we're getting somewhere.

Stock pistons are fine up to 300whp with good fuel and careful tuning. ARP mains are a requirement at 250whp+ IMO. OEM oil pump is fine at 300whp, but reusing old oil pumps is like reusing condoms. New Mazda oil pump is less than $150 from Comp.

Why are you replacing the oil pressure sender?

@Robb M. Why does the WYSIWYG editor delete everything I type after a less-than sign?


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