250-300WHP Build
 

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Only took you about a year to finally realize...

Dude seriously stop. You need to do a ton of reading on here still before you do anything.

https://mkturbo.com/9097NA8.html

1. Buy the mkturbo complete kit and have him keep the ecu to save you some money.
2. Buy the supermiata radiator and reroute
3. Engine parts
   1. FM engine rebuild kit
   2. ARP head studs
   3. Manley or Eagle rods
   4. OEM pistons
   5. Damper of your choice
   6. Machine work if needed

Thats a start for a block rebuild and good affordable turbo kit that is proven.

Maybe you should let your engine shop decide whether you need undersize bearings or not. Also, "reman" heads are usually nightmares. I wouldn't trust that anything on it has been rebuilt correctly, or the valves shimmed right.

I wouldn't buy a flywheel off of ebay. This is something you're trusting to turn at 7000+ RPM without exploding and cutting off your feet. Mine is the SFI rated unit from FM.

The janky spec miata AFPR? Which is basically a stock unit with a hole drilled in the body and a set screw threaded in? For !!!$150$!!!? Go buy a fuellabs 545 for $175 and be done with it.

Just build the fuckin shortblock for fuck's sake. 9.0:1 is what most NA8's are and you're not going to need to spend another $1000 on machine work to do it all over again later.

Strongly agree with this. If you are opening up the motor just build it right the first time with good components that way you dont have to later.

It's awesome that after allllll this reading and posting you've done, you've come up with that parts list.

Top marks.

Two or three threads ago, we all told you that OEM gaskets were the only ones that were worth a damn. Now, you're telling us you're going to buy a bunch of Mahle gaskets.

It appears you do not listen to the advice you're given.

Why should we spend any time giving you advice here?

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Sounds great have fun. Stop asking us for input please.

If you dont want to listen to our advice why even ask for it. We keep telling you what you plan to do is wrong and you insist that because you did it before it must be good.

So not very far, then

lol at this entire thread. What a f - ing waste of time suggesting anything beyond this point in time.

I love this place.

Well, who said you needed to buy a kit? Buying the gaskets individually usually gets you the best price. You just gotta know what you need and don't need.

Cxracing turbo kit? As in manifold, turbo, downpipe? Seriously???

Do you see a single person on this site running a cxracing turbo kit?
No? I wonder why that is....?

I know, I know, you know some ricer kids, who told you all their ricer friends run it. So it must be good.

But seriously, you know nothing, and you dont listed to good advise. Stop posting and go to a skidders forum.
They will all praise your turbo build choices.

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Might as well swap stock pistons for supertech and use arp rod and main bolts too.

Now we're getting somewhere.

Stock pistons are fine up to 300whp with good fuel and careful tuning. ARP mains are a requirement at 250whp+ IMO. OEM oil pump is fine at 300whp, but reusing old oil pumps is like reusing condoms. New Mazda oil pump is less than $150 from Comp.

Why are you replacing the oil pressure sender?

@Robb M. Why does the WYSIWYG editor delete everything I type after a less-than sign?

Again, wouldn't it be cheaper to piece the rebuild kit separatly? If you're on a set budget like you keep mentioning, you should piece togethet the gaskets to see how much money you might save.

The mishimoto radiator will work but you might need a adapter radiator hose so that it reaches the radiator inlet. Something like gate hose # 22382 might work. I don't recall how tight the squeeze was.

+1 for Scroggins, I just picked up my short block from them 3 days ago. They do excellent work.

Edit: If you want, I can look for the "new" oil pump that I got from the PO of my short block. I will have to look to see if I still have it.

Okay so new oil pump.. Conflicting on the pistons though. I'm going to stick with the stock ones, I don't plan over 300whp to keep my 6-speed in one piece. But I'll add main studs to the list, the Manley rods already have ARP bolts included.

Well I can get a gasket set from Jim Ellis Mazda, that would save me a lot since I already have a new timing set and I'd still have everything I need. The kit from them is $202.50, I would just have to buy the ACL bearings, spark plugs, and sealant separately. Thanks for the hose part number, I'll reference it if I end up needing it. I'll look into the condition of my oil pump and see if it needs to be replaced, if so I'll let you know!

Check priority mazda parts in Tyson VA - I usually find them to be cheaper.

Would you look at the condition of your condom before you used it again?

Get a new oil pump like the pro said. Please.

Use once then leave it off for the next go round. So just leave the oil pump off when you go to run the new motor.

Well, that was nice while it lasted.

I've debated whether or not to post anything. Your machine shop will tell you if you need to bore the block or can get by with a hone after they measure it. Then they will tell you how much of an overbore you will need, just like they will tell you if you need to turn the crankshaft down or not.

I just threw up in my mouth a little bit but jesus point taken on that :rofl:

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I'm giddy with excitement for the obligatory melted piston photos!

Please video the first couple passes with boost in 5th or 6th gear. Some good pulls from 1k rpm on up. Dont puss out.

Don't forget to use these Supermiata HB ARP head studs to hold all that power in. Just torque to 90 ft-lbs like the instructions say

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you want 9.5:1 pistons for 93 and e85 mixed use.

pump gas only you want 8.6:1

11:1 will knock on pump gas with any respectable amount of boost, so running e85 is pretty mandatory.

have you ever seen any one run 11:1 pistons here??

who cares if you up the boost by 1-2 psi to compensate for the lower compression? boost is free, pitted/melted pistons from DET are not.

9:1 will give you NA8 stock power with plenty of room for timing and boost. 11:1 is fuckin insanity

No, that's not the heavy duty one. What Supermiata is advertising is the Chrysler 2.2L 4cyl headstuds to be used in miata heads. Thicker diameter stud. Tested up to ludicrous boost according to their site.


I use the ones that you linked, but I'm low compression (8.6:1) and not pushing ludicrous boost. Had I known I'd have access to e85, I'd have gone with higher.

So, uh, does anyone want a set of 90-05 Miata ARP studs? I feel like I always buy expensive parts just before better options come about.

11 to 1 is for naturally aspirated engines or e85 only. 8.6 is used for 93 octane and big boost. 9.x will cause your timing map to be more detonation limited on 93.

It was mainly in jest. You should be fine

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Too lazy to look. What turbo are you going to use?

Last I heard a cxracing 2871 turbo "kit"

You're fine. I'm using normal ARP head studs. I was just playing around.

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IMHO the tater doesn't add enough power over the 2560 to be worth the significant hit in spool. If you want more power than 2560 levels from a Garrett, I would (and did) go with a GTX286x. EFR supposed to be an even better choice, but that's got more significant implications for the rest of the kit.

--Ian

2860 with a good exhaust housing doesn't give up much hit in spool and does make more power. Whether it's enough of a jump in power to justify paying for a Tial housing remains to be seen.

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Gross.

Why not a efr 6258 with a kraken manifold and 3" downpipe?

Best budget baller setup on the market

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I’ll look into it, never tried EFR turbos before.

How many people in your research on this site have suggested the setup that you're talking about?

This is a continual cycle.

You find something that sucks, claiming you researched. Get called out, given other options. You then come back with something else that nobody in history has ever recommended.

The cycle repeats. It's awful. Break the cycle.

Forget ewg, they are stupid and just complicate the exhaust routing. With the efr 6258 there are no boost creep issues.

This is exactly what I am running, for the cost. There is No better setup

$850 kraken cast manifold, 3" Downpipe and oil lines/fittings
$1260 brand new efr 6258 turbo - iwg, has integrated Bov and ebc, so no need to buy those separately.

This turbo is a spool monster and proven to handle up to 425whp on a miata.

Light years ahead of the disco potato 2860 spool and power wise

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holy crap, we just went from a potato to an EFR. Good choice.

Since you don't know a GTX from a GT, it should be noted that a potato is not a GTX. There's about a 15-year technology gap between the two.

And the EFR is even better than the GTX.