You will be fine at that lower boost level without the IC. My intake temps right now are lower than the ambient temp. This is coming from humid hot weather out here on the island too. When tuning it, just start out at 6 degrees and ramp it from there a degree at a time. Today I am going to mess with the upper rpm's and see if I can add a degree back in to the mix.

 

I had my car set to 6 for a while, drivability was awfull. I put in the emanage and set it to advance the timing 4 degrees at less than 1psi, then gradually pull up to 6 degrees at 8psi. I set the base timing back to stock. This is with no IC or H20 and no dyno, so I am being a little cautious. Anyway, the difference was like night and day after that.

With an IC and H20 you may not have to pull very much timing at all.

 

With my emanage, I am pulling only 2 degrees of timing right now. My base timing is set at 12 degrees, so in essence, I am at the stock timing when in boost. Just the food for thought, just start low and go from there, I think you will be surprised how much timing you can run with the WI

 

WI is great and stuff, but it is still a mechanical system. What happens when it craps out under boost? Hello rebuild.

 

With WI and an IC you can get away with stock timing. With JUST WI or IC but not both I would retard about 4* @ 8-10psi and 2* for 5-7psi. Thats just me, you gain a small amount of power from increased timing but is it worth blowing a motor over?

 

thanx guys.. i think i will put it all together drop the timing to 6* and just play it as i go from there. just keep my ear open for knock

 

Start with it retarded and slowly feed it back in. I would imagine that with just the WI you will have no trouble running 10 degrees.

 

how about the fact that my WI is only controlled by a on off psi switch?? i was catchin some slach in flash chat today about that. They are tellin me it will not work well at all without a progressive controller of some kind... Any imput?

 

Get a pressure switch and a relay, that will ensure that it switches on when it is supposed to, an on off switch is going to be real difficult to switch on when you are getting ready to go into boost. I have leds for when the pump receives power and also a pressure gage mounted in the cab, that is about all that I can do for the reliability, but I am using a high mileage motor, so I am expecting the motor to go soon. When I get the money and the time, I will run an intercooler also.

 

Will it work well without the controller...yeah. Are your results going to be a lot more impressive if you have more control....yeah. Just look at the logs for the S4. He pretty much doubled his results by having more control over the system. I did a basic kit on my buddies SRT 4 and he is able to make 400 whp on pump gas. The ecu allows 30 degrees advance at 20 psi. Intake temps stay at ambient under boost. Prior to the Devils Own kit the ecu allowed 22-24 degrees.

Here are the S4 results.


New updated results from the S4. What a huge difference tuning the controller makes.
Blue is the latest results after more tuning.
Dark Purple is with a little tuning
Pink is the from the earlier posted logs. 0 tuning.
Red is no water injection

 

i have a pressure switch and a relay.. Just not a progressive controller like on the devils own kit, i guess i can always add that later

 

signifigant extra g's pulled between 45-70mph. were you putting in more boost as well (compared to red) and keeping the temps that low? that's insane.

 

i wish i had the data logging equipment you have

 

I am just using the basic kit right now, I like it for now, and when I get the money and some other supporting mods that I want first, I will get the controller from WideOpenTuning. You will be fine with the pressure switch and the relay, just take your time getting the thing tuned properly, and you'll be good. Then decide if you want a progressive controller, and if you do, add it. Just decide and go for it man. Good luck.

 

3rd Gear and 22 psi of boost on all runs. He dropped damn near .25 seconds it the time it takes to accelerate through the top of 3rd gear alone. For under $300 thats a hell of a mod.