ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
#202
As far as to answer your original question, I don't know how to quantify how strong either diff really is. I've heard of people breaking stock Miata diffs at stock power levels, and I've heard of 7.5s living in Mustangs up to 400+hp for a while. I've also heard of the exact opposite. I'd put the stock 3.90 diff back in your car and see what happens if it were me. If you go out trying to break it, you will, but if you drive it like a human being, you may never have an issue...
#203
Again, i am most certain that the 1.8 diff is strong enough for 350 plus wtq, however I believe the worm gear start shearing in the torsen unit somewhere near 300 wtq. Its in a thread on m.net, I just haven't located it.
I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...
Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.
Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...
Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.
Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
#205
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Again, i am most certain that the 1.8 diff is strong enough for 350 plus wtq, however I believe the worm gear start shearing in the torsen unit somewhere near 300 wtq. Its in a thread on m.net, I just haven't located it.
I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...
Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.
Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
I would think you will have no issues driving it sensibly, even at much higher power levels, but it may only last one good launch, then blow she goes...
Hell, look at failflop, he's making a bajillion horsepower, with videos to prove it, and his is still intact.
Edit: found it http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=315963
But damn, I was looking forward to the 3.42 CTS diff. The ratios are already silly with the 1.8 powa.
Megan says do it right the first time.
Oh, and I'll probably sell it before I reach 2000miles. I don't think I'll enjoy daily driving a racespec 2618 piston/wall clearance. Or I will find another $500 junkyard engine (coincidentally what the head job cost), leave it stock internally and swap that in there. That would have been smarter.
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Yep, wingadig is still there.
Strong enough? A long torque arm/ppf is better but obviously not as simple at that heimjoint solution. i can make it more strong-looking than that pic. And by that I mean cleaner and Tigged. The lower bolt is still cantilevered though
Strong enough? A long torque arm/ppf is better but obviously not as simple at that heimjoint solution. i can make it more strong-looking than that pic. And by that I mean cleaner and Tigged. The lower bolt is still cantilevered though
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It's in compression. The body of the joint i'd do as one piece of probably some tool steel we have here, not that snot of weld there in the middle. You'd want it as short as possible too.
The heim makes it simple to adjust pinion angle too. Win.
The heim makes it simple to adjust pinion angle too. Win.
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Cheerio Tim. We--of the Spear-Danes in the days of yore--say thou shall put a thick-*** plate between thee darn trans and diff. Thee shall henseforth welds that shiz up; thou shall make haste and throve in honours--bright fire ball in the sky.
Last edited by Braineack; 02-22-2012 at 08:42 AM.
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I have essentially done something similar to that photo above albeit with a Ford Explorer housing (Ford 8.8" carrier). It works great, no issues.
I think what is shown in that picture would be fine. Personally I would use poly diff bushings. As far as single shear on the bolt, use a large grade 8 bolt, properly torqued, and it will be plenty strong. An aluminum doubler plate welded onto the cut PPF at the heim joint attachment point would help with load distribution, but I'll guess it is not strictly required.
I agree, I also like the easy driveshaft angle adjustment with the heim joint. That is a win.
I think what is shown in that picture would be fine. Personally I would use poly diff bushings. As far as single shear on the bolt, use a large grade 8 bolt, properly torqued, and it will be plenty strong. An aluminum doubler plate welded onto the cut PPF at the heim joint attachment point would help with load distribution, but I'll guess it is not strictly required.
I agree, I also like the easy driveshaft angle adjustment with the heim joint. That is a win.