ABSURDflow Turbo KLDE Mazda V6 Thread
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Wickedcrazy vibrations seem to be less when the car is on the ground. I badly need an alignment.
Oh yeah, about that vibration, If I keep my hand on the intake manifold and rev it up, it's smooth as butter. I think the combo just shakes the interior resonance whatever. I may try a factory mustang/soft trans mount. That's tied directly into the FM Subframe rails directly under the seats.
Nice! Yeah 03 MCS is the wife's, and that's my daily driver 05 OBXT, basically the same drivetrain as your 07 LGT.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Here's how my engine bay is at the moment. I will install the turbo once the engine is broken in and I have a good tune in the boost-less part of the map.

I have the right side cam cover on because the timing marker is part of the cover.

BMW/Pierburg waterpump mounted. The hoses are routed where my old intercooler pipe once was.

I have the right side cam cover on because the timing marker is part of the cover.

BMW/Pierburg waterpump mounted. The hoses are routed where my old intercooler pipe once was.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Moar pics!
DIYAutotune's hall sensor was losing sync with trackspeed's crank trigger wheel once things got warm. I tested the sensor/wheel combo to work until ~.025" air gap, but I had to crank it down to ~.007 once warm to regain sync. This made me scared. So yesterday I made me a new cranktrigger wheel with some magnets. When testing, I could get something like .325" air gap with the magnets but I eyeballed it to around .125". All I did so far is start it up and it works, have to see if it's the sensor going wonky at temp that even the magnet can't fix.
Pics!



DIYAutotune's hall sensor was losing sync with trackspeed's crank trigger wheel once things got warm. I tested the sensor/wheel combo to work until ~.025" air gap, but I had to crank it down to ~.007 once warm to regain sync. This made me scared. So yesterday I made me a new cranktrigger wheel with some magnets. When testing, I could get something like .325" air gap with the magnets but I eyeballed it to around .125". All I did so far is start it up and it works, have to see if it's the sensor going wonky at temp that even the magnet can't fix.
Pics!



Whats even more awesome is that he made something on a Mill that I would normally make almost entirely on a lathe, then have to put in the mill to drill holes in it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Thank you. The center was milled out in a spiral so it looks trippy when the engine is running.
haha yeah I hear that. But I needed the slots to be concentric to the inner pilot diameter as best as I could do them, so that means those two had to be done at the same time. I ended up doing everything except the OD with it just clamped there.
Update time. I just recently put on enough break-in miles to feel comfortable driving my miata on the highway and hold a constant rpm for a while. I found at highway speeds I had a wicked violent vibration that was vehicle speed dependent and much higher frequency than a typical out of balance tire. After triple checking pinion angles, clearances, redoing a few mounts, etc, I finally had the balance checked on the 'balanced' driveshaft. It took only a small weight on the diff end, about the size of a quarter, but that $50 FINALLY fixed my major vibration issue. I'll put some more miles on her now and tune the cruise zones. The .63 5th gear takes some getting used to but should give me sweet fuel economy...cause that's what I was going for with this swap.
I'll install the turbo and build the intercooler & EWG Dump pipe when I next have time. I'd rather do it all at once instead of a little at a time; it will take longer til I have a free day but at least I will be able to drive the car until then.
Oh, and I have to get the alignment redone too. The guys said they couldn't get any lower than 4.5deg caster but I looked under and the front's rearmost adjustment cams are centered. Fail.
Update time. I just recently put on enough break-in miles to feel comfortable driving my miata on the highway and hold a constant rpm for a while. I found at highway speeds I had a wicked violent vibration that was vehicle speed dependent and much higher frequency than a typical out of balance tire. After triple checking pinion angles, clearances, redoing a few mounts, etc, I finally had the balance checked on the 'balanced' driveshaft. It took only a small weight on the diff end, about the size of a quarter, but that $50 FINALLY fixed my major vibration issue. I'll put some more miles on her now and tune the cruise zones. The .63 5th gear takes some getting used to but should give me sweet fuel economy...cause that's what I was going for with this swap.
I'll install the turbo and build the intercooler & EWG Dump pipe when I next have time. I'd rather do it all at once instead of a little at a time; it will take longer til I have a free day but at least I will be able to drive the car until then.
Oh, and I have to get the alignment redone too. The guys said they couldn't get any lower than 4.5deg caster but I looked under and the front's rearmost adjustment cams are centered. Fail.
Hey Tim, do you think that water pump bracket will last very long? It looks to be a big cantilever. It looks to be some pretty heavy gauge aluminum, maybe 1/4", but seems like road vibrations, pump vibrations will make short work of that. Unless it is bracketed, or its just temporary and I am talking out of my ***. Still a badass build.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
Yeah I was concerned about that while building it so I originally planned to make a vertical support on the outside edge, and I can still do so, but it is 3" wide 1/4" thick aluminum. T6 so it was a **** to twist and bend so I decided it was strong enough to survive the limited miles this car has in its future. Like you said, it's only subject to road vibration.
This is why i do my own alignments, but if that's the worst of your problems you're doing a superb job with all this custom work. Keep up the great work, and keep us updated!
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,146
Total Cats: 1,087
From: Lake Forest, CA
Just read the whole thread [over the last two days]. Awesome build, and great work! Excited to hear it roar under boost.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 7,035
Total Cats: 425
From: Chesterfield, NJ
I'm looking forward to seeing it boosted too. The weather has sucked this week, hopefully tomorrow I can drive it to work. I will try to maybe get the turbo on this weekend. Yeah right...
It has plenty of torque to accelerate appropriately from 40mph/1400rpm in fifth which is great, that's cruising speed around the back/farm roads around me. Hopefully the compressor won't surge though. But it is a HUGE drop from 4th haha. The other shifts feel like they used to cause those ratios are similar to the factory 5 speed.
75mph in 5th is ~2650rpm. And the exhaust is so much quieter than the 4cyl oddly enough. When I would be in between turbo builds and driving around with the factory header on the BP, I would have to stuff a baffle into the tail pipe wrapped in steel wool. With the V6 it's...quiet. Same exhaust.
It has plenty of torque to accelerate appropriately from 40mph/1400rpm in fifth which is great, that's cruising speed around the back/farm roads around me. Hopefully the compressor won't surge though. But it is a HUGE drop from 4th haha. The other shifts feel like they used to cause those ratios are similar to the factory 5 speed.
75mph in 5th is ~2650rpm. And the exhaust is so much quieter than the 4cyl oddly enough. When I would be in between turbo builds and driving around with the factory header on the BP, I would have to stuff a baffle into the tail pipe wrapped in steel wool. With the V6 it's...quiet. Same exhaust.
IIRC that slug you'll be putting on is not small by any means. I don't think it will create enough pressure or flow at 1400 to surge. But I know nothing of these KL's so I'm talkin outa my *** lol







