So, my problems are never ending. I bought an aem uego and installed it. Now it only reads 10.1:1 all the time. I used add-a-circuit for the power and it is grounded next to the TB. It seems to go through the initial self test where it cycles just fine.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Wes

 

Turned out to be a power issue. I moved the power to the blue clippy thing on the drivers side and that fixed the problem.

 

I love it when people fix their own problems. Good job.

 

What is the "blue clippy thing"? I also have the same problem. I hooked my EGT, boost, and wideband AFR gauge to an open fuse socket under the driver's side dash. The AFR gauge would go through the cycle, and then end up reading 10-10.1. The EGT gauge stopped working as well. Then I noticed when I signaled or put my hazards on, the EGT gauge would flick, like a clock that is stuck. So it is obviously a power problem.

Does it matter how many things you hook to one power source? (ie: does this make sense?)

Also, I've grounded several things to a grounding location under the dash, just to the radio side of the steering shaft...poor location? I could see it would be better (but more work) to ground to the screw where the block is grounded.

 

I just went by this thread to install mine.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...m+uego+install

Its really easy, just try a new ground/power source. I just got my power from the radio, and grounded it to where my radio was grounded too... and it seems to read just fine.

Gl.

 

wtf is up with this recent invasion of bastards?

 

You want to ground your wideband somewhere good. That does not include behind the radio. Ground it next to the TB where people ground their MS. Also, as i found out in my uego adventure, the driver's side fuse box is not a good place to pull from. Over at diyautotune they like to use the fuel pump relay as a source for power. This way, your wideband is getting power while cranking. Weird things can happen if the wideband goes on and off while cranking.

 

Are you referring to the ground by the headlight/fan connection?

 

If you are looking at the front of the motor, it is just to the right of the throttle body. Between the throttle body and the head. (My apologies to diyautotune for hotlinking to their image)

 

while you are messing with that ground, make sure you clean it up and put it back better than you found it. You may see some really weird problems otherwise.

 

I have a 1990, I don't think there is a grounding point there IIRC. There is a powder coated mounting hole for some sort of stand-off (?) I'll have to double check.

For now, I've sourced the power and ground from the 6-point plug just to the right of the shifter (I think it's a power window connector?). The location is convenient so the WB connector goes through the shifter opening in the tunnel. I have the AFR gauge in the air vent to the left of the steering wheel.

What is the benefit of the WBO2 sensor being powered while you are cranking the engine over? On my TEC3, there are settings to have the O2 sensor disabled above/below a certain CLT and also when it is reading above/below a certain voltage.

 

90-93:

 

Good info.

I'm just about to pull the trigger on one of these. For those that have the AEM unit, did it come with the sensor bung?

 

Yes, it came with a round, mild-steel bung with a lip. Quite a nice one, actually.

 

Well, i wouldnt think it would be good for the unit to come on when you turn the key on, go off when you crank and then come back on when the car starts. Just one more power cycle every time you start your car. Seems like it would shorten the life.