i have a gloshift gauge

 

What the ****? Since when was this place an AEM wideband love-fest?

 

I'm tuning a car with an aem. besides the calibrationbeingabout 2 afr off from ms, it warms up fast as **** compared to my LC1

 

Maybe you should set the calibration correctly in the MS. All the AEM widebands I work with line up perfectly with what the software reads, as long as you've set the curve in the software.

 

My lc1 loved to eat 02 sensors and give retarded readings to the megasquirt. Switched to a zeitronix and dont regret it. Spend money on a good wideband or else wonder why you melted a piston when the cheepo whideband showed all was ok.

 

They sell an analog version ... they've been selling it for a while now.



I have an AEM and an LC-1. I had Artech weld two bungs so that I could run a secondary O2 as a gauge/validation ... once the car is up and running I'll get to see a direct comparison in terms of reliability. I plan on using the LC-1 for the megasquirt and the AEM will be my visual reference. Why? Because not race car and I wanted matching analog gauges (I'm a designer ... these things are important to me).

All this LC-1 talk has me thinking I should change my plan or at least wrap the thing in lot's of reflective shielding.

-Zach

 

How fast is the AEM warming up?

This is one complaint i never understood about the LC1. Mine warms up in 10 seconds or less.

 

Its not high priced, and its not high quality.

Just shut up. Seriously. Every post you've made so far is retarded.

Since they've always been one of the easiest to install and set up, and despite not outputting as quickly as the innovates still get the job done just fine.

We've had this argument before in some other thread. LONNNNG discussion too, with Joe P chiming in among many others. The general consensus was that Innovate was more accurate and faster reading, but AEM was easier to set up and still worked fine for 99% of the setups on here (the 1%ers just being displeased with response time and the way it "averages" output sometimes rather than giving you to the .01 reading)

I've used nothing but AEM uegos for the past 5-6 years. Never had issues. About to try the Innovate MTX-L soon just cause they're the same price.

back on topic:

I wouldn't trust the "wideband" in OP to tune my car. But hey if I didn't care about the health of my engine, I'd probably try it lol.


Like 2-3 seconds tops

 

Your heater circuit might be a little fried, mine didnt start taking longer than 3-4 seconds on the subaru until after the controller sat on the down pipe for a couple hours, now its closer to the 10 second range. The AEM seems to be in the 3-4 second range too in the stock miata exhaust.

 

Maybe AEM should publish voltage outputs that are actually close to what it actually outputs?

I started with 0v = 10AFR and 4.250v = 18AFR

TS shows 1.2AFR richer.

I ended up today at 0.5v = 10AFR to get it within a few points. I need to bust out the DMM and see what the voltage to the MS really is.



also offtopic: 3 gauge a-pillars in a miata should be illegal.

LC1 warm-up time: 25 seconds on the dot, seems typical.
AEM: 2-3 sec.

 

Hrmm... i'll have to actually time mine. It might very well be less.

I know i can start the car, and by the time i've got my seatbelt on and throw it into reverse, it's already spitting out numbers.

 

a quick google search shows 30 sec as typical. it can vary based on how you performed your initial warm-up calibrations, which should be done with the sensor in the free-air, if it was reinstalled before that, it can take longer to warm-up after that. But 20-30sec is typical from every LC-1 I've ever touched, I believe the later firmware is faster, but causes other issues...not sure they ever fixed it, or what firmware I'm even on.

I've always had calibration issue with the AEM, but that was dealing with MSI, so that alone added another hurdle to solve. I should be able to calibrate it perfectly in MS3, just annoying it's no where close to the published voltages...where the LC-1 is only off by a little from the default values, typically due to the voltage offset.

 

Log from couple days ago shows an LC-1 warmup time of 11 seconds on a cold start. Mine is just over a year old and there was a new firmware out then that fixed the overheating.

2-3 seconds would be awesome. Not going to give up the AFR/boost combo gauge for it though.

 

Bought my LC-1 in like 2008 and promptly killed the first sensor because I was lazy and used stock sensor location. Welded on a new bung and bought a new sensor which lasted maybe 3 months. Switched up how my controller was wired and the third sensor lasted maybe 8 months, losing calibration every other week. Not saying it wasn't user error but after selling my LC1 and plugging in an AEM I haven't had to dick with it even once and the gauge reading is dead on ***** accurateTM with what tunerstudio shows for AFR.

Looks like they've got an inline version similar to the LC1 now, which I would've preferred..

 

Interdasting.

Gives me things to think about what the replacement for my LC-1 will be when/if it finally freaks out or breaks.

 

My original LC-1 lasted 3.5 years until I turned up the boost on my first turbo setup. My second one is still running fine after 3 years. I have had to replace the O2 sensor once because I over heated the first one. I added the DIY heat shield and have not had any more issues with it over heating.

 

I've had my LC1 and original sensor since 2006.

 

I bought mine used in early 09 and threw it on the car. Haven't done a thing to it since then. Works fine.


Would i buy another one if i were in the market today? Nah. More elegant solutions exist today. It's sure been rock solid for me, though.

 

The wideband gauge the op posted looks like its an Arduino Shield.

 

i love this flipping thing.

Innovate Motorsports 3844 MTX-L Complete All-In-One Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive

that is all i have to say.