Anyone with coolant reroute done in RHD car?
I have been searching for Qmax coolent reroute or Begi, but not sure if either kit will fit on an RHD car. I see that the Clutch hydralic unit or brake booster could be in the way.
Thanks Olderguy, did you use an spacer for the rear Tstate?
Do you mind telling me how you have made the coolent reroute for the RHD car via Hotside?
Do you mind telling me how you have made the coolent reroute for the RHD car via Hotside?
Last edited by Mimime; Apr 11, 2008 at 08:01 AM.
Drilled out the capped-off water line to mount the ECU temp sensor at the back of the head.
Used the 1.6 thermostat cap with top plugged with a hose to 1" copper line with small "T" into heater core, continued 1" copper line past turbo on body shelf to modified 1.8 thermostat in front, then to radiator.
Hose from out of the heater core around hotside fender to modified connector at bottom radiator hose. Original hard line from heater core removed and entry to water pump for that line welded closed.
Used the 1.6 thermostat cap with top plugged with a hose to 1" copper line with small "T" into heater core, continued 1" copper line past turbo on body shelf to modified 1.8 thermostat in front, then to radiator.
Hose from out of the heater core around hotside fender to modified connector at bottom radiator hose. Original hard line from heater core removed and entry to water pump for that line welded closed.
A reroute that cool and complex and there's no pictures. After spending all this time on the forum you do realize we're all visual learners right. Sounds slightly similar to mine I'll be doing.
I get too involved in the projects to take pictures until everything is working, then I don't want to disassemble all the later stuff to take the photos.
Drilled out the capped-off water line to mount the ECU temp sensor at the back of the head.
Used the 1.6 thermostat cap with top plugged with a hose to 1" copper line with small "T" into heater core, continued 1" copper line past turbo on body shelf to modified 1.8 thermostat in front, then to radiator.
Hose from out of the heater core around hotside fender to modified connector at bottom radiator hose. Original hard line from heater core removed and entry to water pump for that line welded closed.
Used the 1.6 thermostat cap with top plugged with a hose to 1" copper line with small "T" into heater core, continued 1" copper line past turbo on body shelf to modified 1.8 thermostat in front, then to radiator.
Hose from out of the heater core around hotside fender to modified connector at bottom radiator hose. Original hard line from heater core removed and entry to water pump for that line welded closed.
Second, With the brake booster in the way, how was it drilling the Nibble plug to fit the rear T. Sensor?
Will it be possible to relocate the sensor at the front, instead of one sensor, put two?
Last edited by Mimime; Apr 12, 2008 at 01:30 AM.
Doesn't have real good pics but you should get the idea.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14515
Or there are some more recent and better pics near the bottom of this page which give you a better idea.
http://mx5cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=29791
Tim
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=14515
Or there are some more recent and better pics near the bottom of this page which give you a better idea.
http://mx5cartalk.com/viewtopic.php?t=29791
Tim
Thanks Tim, you had just about gave me all the confidence I need.
Do you think its possible to find a fitting YELLOW for the heater core? IS there enough room?
Do you think its possible to find a fitting YELLOW for the heater core? IS there enough room?
I don't think there would be enough room, and you would probably want the heater outlet to be pre-thermostat too both so it get hot water quicker and to have an alternate route for the water to relieve pressure from the pump while the thermostat is closed.
You can always change the front outlet to the 1.8 one and shift the stock heater oulet and thermoswitch to the front of the motor without having to get a new outlet made specifically.
Tim
You can always change the front outlet to the 1.8 one and shift the stock heater oulet and thermoswitch to the front of the motor without having to get a new outlet made specifically.
Tim
For faster heating you want your heater hose after the thermostat. It lets the water warm up in the motor and then releases it.
I know when I take thermostats out for cooling issues the heater sucks. When winter hits, I buy one quick. It takes forever to warm up.
I know when I take thermostats out for cooling issues the heater sucks. When winter hits, I buy one quick. It takes forever to warm up.
If you cut the "bung" section off. That half inch or so of extra aluminum you might be able to retap the fixture or have something welded onto that to do the same thing.
Any reason why when i do my reroute i can't eliminate the hardline under the manifold for the heater inlet. Then instead get my heater inlet from a fitting in my spacer before the thermostat then letting the heater core dump back into the system on the otherside of the thermostat like mimime showed with that 90* on the outside of that thermostat outlet? You would have really short lines, the thermostat would see the warm coolant from the engine on both sides, and the heatercore would still be bypassing coolant for some preflow before the thermo opened completely.
Any reason why when i do my reroute i can't eliminate the hardline under the manifold for the heater inlet. Then instead get my heater inlet from a fitting in my spacer before the thermostat then letting the heater core dump back into the system on the otherside of the thermostat like mimime showed with that 90* on the outside of that thermostat outlet? You would have really short lines, the thermostat would see the warm coolant from the engine on both sides, and the heatercore would still be bypassing coolant for some preflow before the thermo opened completely.






