Anyone running staged injectors?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,011
Total Cats: 7
From: Illinois
EDIT: the part of idle control that is the most PITA for me is compensating for electrical load. My alternator is getting old and I like my 4 H4 headlights, stereo, A/C on high, etc. My battery voltage/injector duty cycle table is much different than the default for the RC440's.
It's been a long time so I may be a little off here, but when I first received my unit (mid 30's SN, 2005 I think) the "battery voltage" was accurate at idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle (any variation of TPS) it would quickly ramp to zero. It would screw up a few trims. Sent it back and had the diode fix and it's been fine/accurate ever since.
You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.
You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.
Elite Member
iTrader: (22)
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,224
Total Cats: 3
From: Sunny Spanish speaking Non US Caribbean
Jeff, I've been trying to pm you about oil gears but your inbox is full. Please send me an email to: rfernandez@codetel.net.do.
Thanks,
Rafa
Thanks,
Rafa
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,011
Total Cats: 7
From: Illinois
It's been a long time so I may be a little off here, but when I first received my unit (mid 30's SN, 2005 I think) the "battery voltage" was accurate at idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle (any variation of TPS) it would quickly ramp to zero. It would screw up a few trims. Sent it back and had the diode fix and it's been fine/accurate ever since.
You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.
You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.
I have the idle feedback pretty close but because of the a/f drift it'll never be accurate. Some days it's -12 learned value. Other days it's +8. Sometimes it's right on about -1 or -2. I can't get it stable and figured that's just the way it is. What's interesting is the EMS can see the headlights turning on, the vent blower on #3 or higher, and load on the power steering. You can see the state of the inputs change in Setup>Parameters>Inputs yet you can't program idle compensation for any of those. The factory ECU did.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Greasyman
General Miata Chat
2
Sep 28, 2015 10:44 AM






