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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-19-2008, 05:05 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
EDIT: the part of idle control that is the most PITA for me is compensating for electrical load. My alternator is getting old and I like my 4 H4 headlights, stereo, A/C on high, etc. My battery voltage/injector duty cycle table is much different than the default for the RC440's.
I didn't know AEM even fixed that trim. Isn't that part of the diode fix I keep hearing the guys at AEM forum talking about? My serial number is one that already has the "fix" but my voltage reading is all over the place. I zero'd out the voltage compensation map. It reads >16v except at idle then it jumps all over. Voltage at the AEM input is solid according to my DMM. Just one of many bugs I've found in the unit. I quit trying to keep track of them since AEM never answers me about it.
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:36 AM   #22
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It's been a long time so I may be a little off here, but when I first received my unit (mid 30's SN, 2005 I think) the "battery voltage" was accurate at idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle (any variation of TPS) it would quickly ramp to zero. It would screw up a few trims. Sent it back and had the diode fix and it's been fine/accurate ever since.

You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:24 PM   #23
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Jeff, I've been trying to pm you about oil gears but your inbox is full. Please send me an email to: [email protected].

Thanks,

Rafa
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Old 02-20-2008, 06:07 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
It's been a long time so I may be a little off here, but when I first received my unit (mid 30's SN, 2005 I think) the "battery voltage" was accurate at idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle (any variation of TPS) it would quickly ramp to zero. It would screw up a few trims. Sent it back and had the diode fix and it's been fine/accurate ever since.

You probably don't need the trim if your other idle parameters are perfect and your idle closed loop fuel control is set right. Mine are like 85% good and without the idle/voltage trim my car would most likely stall with the headlights and wipers on. Voltage goes down a lot on my car at idle.

I have the idle feedback pretty close but because of the a/f drift it'll never be accurate. Some days it's -12 learned value. Other days it's +8. Sometimes it's right on about -1 or -2. I can't get it stable and figured that's just the way it is. What's interesting is the EMS can see the headlights turning on, the vent blower on #3 or higher, and load on the power steering. You can see the state of the inputs change in Setup>Parameters>Inputs yet you can't program idle compensation for any of those. The factory ECU did.
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