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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-19-2007, 11:25 AM   #21
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race car rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000 rpm. You're just short of that if you're seeing 4bar at 6k - but you're also using the stock gauge AND you're not racing. I would be comfortable with what you're seeing- and you've got improved temps (I'm assuming).
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:13 PM   #22
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Hmm I've never had warm pressures that high. I'm using an electronic sender autometer gauge.

I get 50+ psi cold idle.
12-15 psi idle warm.
Max of 50-55 psi or so when warm.
Max of 40-45 psi in the hottest part of summer.

I'm currently running 10W40 if I remember correctly. I have run 15W50 in the past but I stopped, for reasons I can't recollect. Maybe I wasn't able to find any at the store. I have stuck with mobil 1 synthetic for years.
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:15 PM   #23
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Also, if you guys are willing to wait a little bit for all my parts to arrive, I will have a new post with complete parts list, pictures and instructions for doing a cheap and high capacity oil cooler/remote mount setup that uses the tru-cool 24 row cooler and ford mustang v8/2.3T oil filters. Total cost including fasteners, tubing and all parts is still well under 200 shipped and finished.

Mounting point of the cooler is under the hood latch and oil filter is mounted behind the front fender, in front of the passenger side wheel.
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Old 08-19-2007, 06:00 PM   #24
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From spec miata forum, from "Bob Thornton - Race Engineering"
Quote:
Mark, our testing shows power loss with pressures above 42 psi at 6800 rpm, we shoot fore 38 psi at 6800 with the oil hot.

On the low side any thing below 33 psi hot at 6800 will result in damage to the engine.

All of this is dependent on oil types and other variables.

What kind of guage is used?

Bob
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Old 08-20-2007, 04:26 AM   #25
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Ah, Thanks for the replies.
My oil pressure hits about 40 kg/cm2 when at high rpms.
Seems to be alright. Help has been greatly appreciated
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:10 AM   #26
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Keep in mind that when building a race engine for max power, longevity is sacrificed. I should have made my race car statement in context - that was for an club racing engine intended to race a few seasons. A "loose" engine makes more power at price of excessive tolerances that produce premature (again relatively speaking) wear. So in "our" environment it would probably be wiser to yield to more pressure in the interest of preservation, rather than running less for a few more hp.

Probably an important section to note also:
All of this is dependent on oil types and other variables.

Just a thought - you have a comment coming from an engine builder who builds incredibly powerful "stock" engines. What's the likelihood of accurate information coming from somebody who's success and livelihood rely upon trade secrets? For example, we were dyno tuning an ITA Miata which made 116rwhp. When asked how that compared to an off the shelf RE SM engine we were told that it was "in line" by a "representative". When we got to the track we asked an SM racer what they're fresh RE engine dyno'd at an were told 125rwhp.
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Old 08-20-2007, 11:52 AM   #27
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No argument there. I would rather my engine last forever than make another 5 hp from oil pump power losses.
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