I'd prefer to use the stock regulator. Since most everyone who will be buying one of these is running a programmable ECU, we are running stock pressures and big injectors.

 

Thats the only way I would run one. Part of the beauty of good engine management is controlling it all with your injectors instead of a expensive regulator and upgraded fuel pump.

Look at the FFS, a bung could be welded to the rail and a brass flange for the regulator could be attached, or the flange could be welded directly to it. That would be the most expensive part of the rail besides lines if you wanted braded.

 

It is funny how the Honda and Mazda folks differ. Honda folks seem to always use an aftermarket regulator once they get over 10+psi. Mazda guys love the stock FPR.

I ran an Aeromotive with my Standalone and 910cc injectors on my 1990 Miata. I used to run a base pressure of 50psi. A lot of injectors have a much better spray pattern at 50psi and therefore I like the higher pressure.

Now that I have my 2000 I will be doing thinks a little different, but similar. Might even install an FPR in my engine bay and a return (Once I go standalone) I like to build my 400hp project to support 600hp.

Enjoy!

 

Depending on if I get any offers on the motor or not, I will be running an aftermarket fpr as well.

<-- came from the honda world

 

can someone actually calculate when a larger volume fuel rail becomes needed? otherwise no i'll stick with the cheap homemade one.

 

FFS already has a billet fuel rail with substantial internal volume, and 3 NPT ports.

 

While that's true, and while it does appear to be a nice product, it's also $$$. Marc had a post on miata.net containing a price point teaser of $100 for this rail. Isn't the FFS rail $175?
When it's accounts payable, $100>$175. Accounts receivable is another story...

 

Id buy it at $75, no more than that. Id only want it because it might look better than the stock rail. With all the guys running 200+ whp on here on stock rail, its just hard to justify spending anymore.
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Ill do it if you get me the numbers I need.

 

what numbers do you need Loki? We need fuel flow ratings and internal rail diameters right? How exact would we have to be on the measurement?

 

what pressure you want to run, what flow you want. and current dimensions of the fuel rail ID. Ill probably come up with more when i sit down to think about it. I will need some information on gasoline: dynamic fluid viscosity (not so important cause im thinking that will be =1, and i will just get diameter change instead of absolute size)

 

i have a spare fuel rail sitting here, i'm not exactly sure how to measure the internal volume without cutting this thing in half.

 

well i just need length, and inner diamter

 

lol, i know how to calculate it but i don't know much i'm gonna measure inner diameter without cutting it in half

 

Measure the outside of the rail and then measure the thickness of the material used is the round tubes that hold the injectors in the rail. That thickness is most likely the same as the rail, maybe a little thicker. Then subtract that thickness area from the area of the rail.

 

9mm sqaure by around 295mm long

 

looks to be around 23.895cc

 

To figure out the internal volume of the rail...

(yes I realize this will not tell you internal diameter exactly, but you can get close, if you roughly know the length of the rail.)

If you have it off the car...

Plug all the holes but one.
Fill it with water.
Dump the water into something graduated.

Using the formula to calculate the volume of a cylinder, put in length of the cylinder, and volume of the water, to solve for diameter of the cylinder.

You should then be pretty close on both volume and diameter of the stock rail.

Craig

 

I don't think the formula for a cylinder comes into play when calculating volume of square tubing though. Good idea with the water.

 

come on man, I thought you were in college