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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-17-2014, 08:01 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
Enjoy your reduced performance.
That fact that you've somehow convinced yourself that's having less torque is quicker/better performance and that having more boost at redline is safer makes it even better.

seriously, why aren't you toying with Rotrex superchargers?
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:46 AM   #42
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Do you genuinely not understand or am.I being trolled?
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:58 AM   #43
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No troll. I 100% completely understand how ridiculous you are. Otherwise I'd accuse you of trolling.
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:56 AM   #44
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It's almost like you two are intentionally not actually reading what the two of you are posting.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:16 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
There for in order to hover at a specific torque (240 for example) boost needs to steadily increase past 4500rpm by a few psi, I tend to see 16 or 17psi at redline on typical 2560 setups. Some might describe this as creep. Call it what you will.
That is not creep. That is a controlled ramp-up of boost to compensate for tapering airflow. Creep is something you can't control.

I know what you're saying though, I sometimes do the same
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
It's almost like you two are intentionally not actually reading what the two of you are posting.
probably.

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Old 12-17-2014, 10:32 AM   #47
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Reduced performance... what?

He'll get more out of it by having that boost on sooner vs taper up and having more power under the curve.

Power under the curve is the best thing about being able to tune a car. If you only want some peaky top end... BLEH.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:46 AM   #48
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If you only want some peaky top end... BLEH.
Says the Honda boy.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:47 AM   #49
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Goddamnit.

He's saying hit your boost necessary to make your torque target, then taper up from there to keep the torque target from onset all the way to redline.

This gives you no less power anywhere, AND gives you more power up top.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:49 AM   #50
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with the assumption that torque output alone, not cylinder pressure, bends rods.

I would agree that, in an ideal situation, I'd rather make 15psi at 3K, then increase boost to redline to keep the TQ from dropping--which really isn't that dramatic on our motors in the first place if you can size the turbo correctly.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:53 AM   #51
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Then you guys are in agreement. Don't make me knock your heads together.
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Old 12-17-2014, 10:54 AM   #52
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DO IT!
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:39 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
with the assumption that torque output alone, not cylinder pressure, bends rods.

I would agree that, in an ideal situation, I'd rather make 15psi at 3K, then increase boost to redline to keep the TQ from dropping--which really isn't that dramatic on our motors in the first place if you can size the turbo correctly.
Ideal situation, like everyone with megasquirt and a mac valve?
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:32 PM   #54
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Quote:
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Says the Honda boy.
Oh ho ho... ima get you.
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Old 12-19-2014, 09:04 AM   #55
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SAV has the right idea in my view. Your set up is little different than the integral gate.

The right angle mounting of the gate places the valve/flow relationship square on the same geometry as the integral.

The gate should never be "like this." Again, no different than the integral, save a bigger valve. A bigger valve ain't the problem.

Turn the vent from the exhaust housing 90 degrees, leaning it directly outboard. Literally, bore a hole straight out from the inlet flange through the scroll as it begins to turn downward. Patch the present hole.

This puts the wastegate on a path with the centerline straight out from the manifold exit.

While doing that, check the valve seat on the gate, also.

corky
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