What is this?
04-13-2010, 11:18 AM
#3
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Location: Falls Church, VA
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Not necessarily. If you have an ECU with a MAP sensor you could just replace that hose with a little air filter. But if you still depend on the AFM/MAF then yes it will need to be plumbed to the intake so as not to let unmetered air into the engine.
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04-13-2010, 12:47 PM
#5
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Location: Chesterfield, NJ
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I checked my IAC's and they leaked boost while Paul checked his and they didn't. So I always plumb them into the intercooler pipe just to be sure I don't have a boost leak.
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04-13-2010, 01:10 PM
#6
not to bring back old topics from the dead, BUT ... has any of the members (koto?) who removed the IAC valve had any idle/driveability issues? I haven't seen any follow up posts.
I'm asking for two reasons:
A, I removed the PS and AC so the only noticeable load at idle should only be the lights.
B, My IAC **** the bed and in a moment of stupidity, I forgot to remove the wax sensor on the intake before having it powder coated so I can only assume that it's junk as well. Considering tossing the whole sha-bang as the car is only driven in summer/early fall months so cold starts aren't a huge issue.
-zach
I'm asking for two reasons:
A, I removed the PS and AC so the only noticeable load at idle should only be the lights.
B, My IAC **** the bed and in a moment of stupidity, I forgot to remove the wax sensor on the intake before having it powder coated so I can only assume that it's junk as well. Considering tossing the whole sha-bang as the car is only driven in summer/early fall months so cold starts aren't a huge issue.
-zach
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04-13-2010, 01:12 PM
#7
not to bring back old topics from the dead, BUT ... has any of the members (koto?) who removed the IAC valve had any idle/driveability issues? I haven't seen any follow up posts.
I'm asking for two reasons:
A, I removed the PS and AC so the only noticeable load at idle should only be the lights.
B, My IAC **** the bed and in a moment of stupidity, I forgot to remove the wax sensor on the intake before having it powder coated so I can only assume that it's junk as well. Considering tossing the whole sha-bang as the car is only driven in summer/early fall months so cold starts aren't a huge issue.
-zach
I'm asking for two reasons:
A, I removed the PS and AC so the only noticeable load at idle should only be the lights.
B, My IAC **** the bed and in a moment of stupidity, I forgot to remove the wax sensor on the intake before having it powder coated so I can only assume that it's junk as well. Considering tossing the whole sha-bang as the car is only driven in summer/early fall months so cold starts aren't a huge issue.
-zach
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04-13-2010, 01:22 PM
#8
I have cold-start driveability issues, but I can't say for sure that it's IACV delete related. The main thing that sucks is that the idle goes from an indicated 1k RPM idle to 2-2.2k once warmed up. I suspect my dashpot may have something to do with that though, because if I manipulate it manually it goes back down.
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04-13-2010, 01:32 PM
#9
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Location: Chesterfield, NJ
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Paul doesn't run an IAC on his current car, with the BEGI cast intake mani and aftermarket 70mm TB. No A/C or P/S and little ol' headlights. He doesn't have issues, but he did want me to make him an IAC plate like I made Ed so he can add it to his system after not having it for a while.
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