Lowering Boost Method
#1
Lowering Boost Method
So I've been searching around to see if I can find a way to lower the boost in my T3. I know that lengthening the actuator rod will work but will make it spool slower.
Here is another method I found:
http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html
It looks interesting but the author doesn't give much details. Does this method help reduce the negative effects of lengthening actuator rods? What the benefit of adding this spring?
Thanks guys.
Here is another method I found:
http://www.denverspeed.com/wastegates.html
It looks interesting but the author doesn't give much details. Does this method help reduce the negative effects of lengthening actuator rods? What the benefit of adding this spring?
Thanks guys.
#5
Depending on what EMS you're using, the megasquirt base maps we have available are pretty damn close for just about any car. Close enough that you could retard the ignition a degree or two extra and bump the fuel a little rich and head down the road with autotune on safely at 7 psi. Atleast that's what I did.
#7
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how about not flooring it until it's tuned. you shouldn't really drive it until it is anyway. but not flooring it will keep you from full boost.
but leaving the WG open is fine. more importantly: what do you care if you build boost fast or not if the car's not tuned properly?
how about not flooring it until it's tuned. you shouldn't really drive it until it is anyway. but not flooring it will keep you from full boost.
but leaving the WG open is fine. more importantly: what do you care if you build boost fast or not if the car's not tuned properly?
#8
Depending on what EMS you're using, the megasquirt base maps we have available are pretty damn close for just about any car. Close enough that you could retard the ignition a degree or two extra and bump the fuel a little rich and head down the road with autotune on safely at 7 psi. Atleast that's what I did.
Once I get it tuned in "safe" then I'll hit up BEGi for some dyno tuning for power.
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