hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Hey, if you're near an aviation or mechanized unit, see if you can get some buds to help you. An avionics tech could really show you how to straighten out that wiring.

gearhead_318

iTrader: (1)

^That's a really good idea. However, I still think taking it back to stock and going from there would be best since you could fix any problems you man have now or in the future.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

In that case make sure to check out the FAQs in the DIY Turbo section. If you intend to keep it turbo'd then definitely check into the Megasquirt. It is the best standalone ECU for the price and isn't all that difficult if read up on it before hand. There is a section on this forum for the MS as well, read up in there and you will be good to go. If you fix the short cuts taken then you will probably have a fairly well sorted out setup.

Mturbo

Thanks for the help, I will get right on it.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

For a noob, you sir win at life. I'll chip in some more stuff that has gone unmentioned.

First off, if you get the MS, be certain to get an IAT sensor too. If you do that, then you can clean up the clusterfuck of clusterfuckery to the intake of the turbo. This also may be related to your stalling.

Secondly, clean up that heater hose from the front of the engine to the heater. You do NOT want a hose having the potential to rub against a stainless steel line like your intake line, it'll saw through it. Related, see if you can do something about that awful oil feed line.

Thirdly, the injector wiring has been mentioned, but it's fubared. Badly. This may be one of the first things that you want to fix - who knows if that rat's nest of wires is even working correctly?

Fourthly, as mentioned, fix the coils. I would personally use this chance to upgrade to COPs to get rid of a chunk of your mess instead of playing around with mounting coils - you could be suffering from issues related to spark, maybe, possibly, whether it's grounding or what have you.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Yeah on second glance, you can see the tail of the clamp to the left of the coupler.

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Yea I saw that but chalked it up to a zip tie from something below it. I still don't actually SEE a clamp, but I guess it's there, it would be a huge leak if it wasn't. Ghost clamp!

Mturbo

Thanks, Yeah I have my brother getting the parts and I am walking him through the smaller stuff that can be fixed ie the wiring using proper automotive butt connectors, taping all electrical connections, mounting the coils and extending the piping between the turbo and maf. I'm going to have him get it tuned (super low 6lbs) then when I get home from deployment. I can get on the big stuff. Thanks for the advice, I'm gonna keep a folder of the info I get so I can get the most out of my car when I get it finished.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

NOOOOOOO!!!!!

That's not much better than what you have (well, it is better than wire nuts).

To join two wires together, you solder them together and then use heat shrink tubing to make them weathertite. Again, get an avionics tech to help you. Not some dude from Autozone.

Quality = Reliability

You really should park this car until you get home.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

I'm with Hornetball in this camp, but the best wiring guy I know swears by butt connectors in the engine bay if you know how to crimp, use good connectors, and have a proper automotive crimper. Using the techniques he told me gave me bulletproof crimps in the passenger compartment, but I'm unwilling to experiment with them in the engine bay. YMMV.

Mturbo

A well done butt connector has always done just fine by me, especially when electrical taped correctly, it provides more protection than the stock plugs and connectors at least. I'm from a pretty dry climate though so maybe i have learned incorrectly for most areas. but i have built full wiring harnesses for my jeep using that setup and submerged the system in water/mud with no issue. Am i just lucky so far? and as far as the park the car deal, I honestly don't mind if he blows the car up, I was kinda planning on a full rebuild in the upcoming year or so. Its my 3rd car, not my daily driver, so worst thing that could happen is i loose some garage space for a while. give it 2 or 3 years, I'll learn up on this stuff and have one helluva car, I'm patient, willing to learn and willing to put in the effort. I guess I'll have to invest in a soldering iron and a heat gun as well ha.

blaen99

iTrader: (6)

I have no doubt that, if you have the tools, materials, and knowledge, crimps can be as good as solder as noted above.

If you've built a Jeep harness that you've done that too, I would not hesitate to use crimps. Just show the same diligence to crimps that you would to soldered connections.

Mturbo

yes sir but i do understand where you are coming from for sure.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

New guy survives initial devouring like a champ...



New guy, where exactly is the car?

FRT_Fun

iTrader: (19)

Who are the ******** that gave him neg props by the way?(looks like someone gave the whole first page neg props... pozzz props for everyone from me!) Best noob we have had in a while.

Anyways, also interested to know where this car is. There may be some locals willing to help.

Mturbo

Fort Bennings GA. and thanks, its not the first time i have been the new guy on the forum. Not to mention the welcome party i got when I got blood striped ( when you become an NCO in the Marines and they effectively render your legs useless. took me a few weeks to walk right. haha) but my brother would really like the help if there is someone near his base.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

I should have room in the shop after next weekend if he wants to bring it up to Huntsville, and I can start cleaning up the mess. My time isn't free, but I will be happy to cut you a deal if I can work on it as time permits between other projects. Your brother may be out of a ride for a while, but he's definitely not doing you any favors by driving it with whatever is wrong with it.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Yes, you've been lucky so far.

What you've done can work for a little while. But it won't last. All kinds of things dissolve and loosen electrical tape . . . oil, gasoline, cleaners . . . basically all the stuff that an engine compartment is exposed to. I'm constantly having to patch up the OEM electrical tape in my engine compartment, and I'll bet the dudes in Hiroshima "electrical taped correctly."

Anyway, you've got a car that sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. I'm recommending proven techniques that give YEARS of reliable service. I'm also recommending that you pair up with other Marines that have knowledge and training on doing high-reliability wiring.

Oh, BTW, I do use crimping where appropriate. But I don't use autozone-grade. Aircraft Spruce FTW.

Mturbo

Yeah the mech's I work with say if its not flying than more than the butt connector is not necessarily. but as I said before I do see where you are coming from, and I think I might go ahead and get a heat gun and soldering iron just to get the more important wiring jobs done correctly.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

For the record, I use 3M barrel connectors and heat shrink on anything mission critical that sees any serious vibration. I used to work in the load cell industry, and we were CONSTANTLY repairing solder connections on cells used in vibration heavy environments. I properly sized, properly crimped barrel connector is MUCH less brittle than a solder connection.