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Old 01-23-2012, 01:32 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Mturbo View Post
Yeah the mech's I work with say if its not flying than more than the butt connector is not necessarily. but as I said before I do see where you are coming from, and I think I might go ahead and get a heat gun and soldering iron just to get the more important wiring jobs done correctly.
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Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
For the record, I use 3M barrel connectors and heat shrink on anything mission critical that sees any serious vibration. I used to work in the load cell industry, and we were CONSTANTLY repairing solder connections on cells used in vibration heavy environments. I properly sized, properly crimped barrel connector is MUCH less brittle than a solder connection.
This is exactly what my wiring guy told me. Butt connectors are supposed to be superior to solder in a vibration-heavy environment, hands down, but only if you do everything right.

Thing is, most people don't do everything right (including me, sadly) so they get an unnecessary bad reputation.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:34 AM   #62
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Cheeseball Harbor Freight shielded butt splices != good barrel connectors and heat shrink. Period.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:37 AM   #63
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Cheeseball Harbor Freight shielded butt splices != good barrel connectors and heat shrink. Period.
I'm blatantly threadjacking. Would you guys that crimp be willing to recommend good connectors? Do you recommend connectors that use that...integrated heat shrink stuff? How do you size connectors properly? Would you be willing to give some dos and don'ts?

I can only offer props, but I would love to learn as much as I can about doing it right.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:40 AM   #64
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I can only offer props, but I would love to learn as much as I can about doing it right.
+1 in regards to EVERYTHING haha.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:43 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
Cheeseball Harbor Freight shielded butt splices != good barrel connectors and heat shrink. Period.
You mean something like these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...-14-67521.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...ack-66793.html
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:45 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by vehicular View Post
For the record, I use 3M barrel connectors and heat shrink on anything mission critical that sees any serious vibration. I used to work in the load cell industry, and we were CONSTANTLY repairing solder connections on cells used in vibration heavy environments. I properly sized, properly crimped barrel connector is MUCH less brittle than a solder connection.
This is exactly correct. And, whenever I have a termination (ring terminal, spade terminal, etc.), a high quality crimp connector crimped with ratchet-type crimpers is what I use. I still prefer to join two wires by twist, solder and heat shrink, although I don't have a problem with a high quality butt connector crimped with a proper crimper. Unfortunately, on cars, I usually only see the autozone crud.

I also like to use the MIL-STD Tefzel wire for heat, corrosion and abrasion resistance. I guess I've spent too much time around aircraft. But, after all, aren't we making these Miatas fly?

Given that few will invest in quality crimping supplies and tools, I feel more comfortable recommending solder and heat shrink for repairing wires. Gives decent performance with little up front cost.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:00 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by blaen99 View Post
I'm blatantly threadjacking. Would you guys that crimp be willing to recommend good connectors? Do you recommend connectors that use that...integrated heat shrink stuff? How do you size connectors properly? Would you be willing to give some dos and don'ts?

I can only offer props, but I would love to learn as much as I can about doing it right.
Wire:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html

Butt Splices:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lonsplices.php
or
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...dmo4363884.php

Ring Terminals:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...insulterms.php

Spade Terminals:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/pidg.php

Crimp Tool:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lcrimptool.php
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:03 AM   #68
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I think I'm going to have my younger Bro go up and get help from vehicular so as to get the rig ready to drive, then when i get back to the states i will take it from there. i got big plans for this car. But i would be more comfortable starting from at least a safe car to drive.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:11 AM   #69
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Yeah, I'm going to be sticking with soldering. I greatly appreciate this but the cost involved to crimp properly compared to solder is insane. If I have to choose between FM rails and crimping, I'll take the frame rails!

But seriously, thank you! It is much appreciated, props for you bro!
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:34 AM   #70
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Here's a site with some good info:

http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page207.html

They also sell a quality ratchet crimper and terminal kits for quite a bit less than Aircraft Spruce. Lots of tutorials too.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:47 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
Here's a site with some good info:

http://terminaltown.com/Pages/Page207.html

They also sell a quality ratchet crimper and terminal kits for quite a bit less than Aircraft Spruce. Lots of tutorials too.
On a related note, what are your recommendations for heat shrink, sizing, etc.? How about for wire conduit?

I'm going to have to make a big heat shrink order shortly because I can't find any adhesive shrink wrap locally, plus I'd really prefer to get conduit in the same order, so I'd love to hear more recommendations, and it does tie into the crimping!
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:33 AM   #72
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The accordion black plastic cover is crap, just wrap it in duct tape. For heat shrink buy a $10 variety box, and put the smallest size over the finished wire. I use a lighter; it leaves a little brown mark on the heat shrink but is a lot faster than holding your soldering iron under it forever. Could probably use a hair dryer too, but that's a lot bulkier and clumsier.
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:36 AM   #73
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You can solder a wire to a wire. It won't let you down.
But NEVER solder a connector to a wire. It will rip off in little time.
Also, use solder with flux inside. Do not use products like S39. They will corrode all metal parts and they will just rot away.
And yes: no soldering alowed in aircrafts. It is a safety thing. Soldered joints can let go under vibrations. A good crimp is better, but only if made watertight.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:31 AM   #74
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You can solder a wire to a wire. It won't let you down.
It will still break at the solder spot.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:19 AM   #75
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I was poking around Harbor Freight's site and came across this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet...ool-97420.html

This looks exactly like the crimper I use. And it's only $12 and got some great reviews by guys that use it for a living. For $12, it's certainly worth a shot. I sure paid a lot more than that for mine.

Harbor Freight is hit and miss, but sometimes you get lucky with them.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:06 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetball View Post
I was poking around Harbor Freight's site and came across this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratchet...ool-97420.html

This looks exactly like the crimper I use. And it's only $12 and got some great reviews by guys that use it for a living. For $12, it's certainly worth a shot. I sure paid a lot more than that for mine.

Harbor Freight is hit and miss, but sometimes you get lucky with them.
yea its a hit and miss sometimes but the tools usually carry a lifetime warranty, and if it breaks your out like 20$
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:12 PM   #77
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Get back on track guys...personally i think the OPs car dies because hes missing the vice grips on the fuel line fuel control method.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:42 PM   #78
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So, how are we off track? I'll bet those HF ratchet crimpers could also be used as fuel line vice grips. C'mon man!
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:20 PM   #79
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So, how are we off track? I'll bet those HF ratchet crimpers could also be used as fuel line vice grips. C'mon man!
I think he is right, if you use multiple rubber bands and some hockey tape you could do just as good a job as any ol vice grips would do. Just my 2 pennies.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:55 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
The accordion black plastic cover is crap, just wrap it in duct tape. For heat shrink buy a $10 variety box, and put the smallest size over the finished wire. I use a lighter; it leaves a little brown mark on the heat shrink but is a lot faster than holding your soldering iron under it forever. Could probably use a hair dryer too, but that's a lot bulkier and clumsier.
a $10 heat gun works about a million times better than a lighter. and it has a ton of other uses. one of my most favorite tools.
I used to use a lighter for heat shrink, but frankly, it gets old. And forget about using a lighter in awkward, tight spots (think wiring harness).

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-wa...112-96289.html
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