Building a 1.6 w/t25 (56k would suck)
#1
Building a 1.6 w/t25 (56k would suck)
Still in one piece...
Little dirty and what all can i remove from the engine bay.
Before the snail is mounted
This is what the pistons looked like too.
Umm i think this needs replacing?
And this too...
So this is the post that i will keep up to date through the build with goals.
Stock 1.6 internals with new gaskets and bearings to push 200WHP with a sr20det t25 and all the parts from a greddy for now. Any help would be great.
#2
I would just get the flywheel resurfaced. Unless you want to upgrade to a 1.8 flywheel and clutch assembly.
In your case for 200 hp i would just use the 1.6 unit though and have it resurfaced for $30 or whatever your local shop charges. Then pick up something like an ACT HD clutch. Unless you want to go for the ebay F1 clutch.
In your case for 200 hp i would just use the 1.6 unit though and have it resurfaced for $30 or whatever your local shop charges. Then pick up something like an ACT HD clutch. Unless you want to go for the ebay F1 clutch.
#9
I was thinking about it but im rebuilding this motor at school for a grade and has to be done by end of december. So i didnt want to send out any parts and be stuck without them and get a bad grade. But no i know the inside and out of the b6 im planning on building another b6 with a bullitproof bottem end on it. Plus if anyone needs an engine built I have nothing to do this winter up here.
#10
Ok, Sorry it took this long to get the new pics posted I've been busy.
Here's the bottom end all back together at factory spec clerances and torque.
Is this right? I looked up where to tap like five times before drilling so i hope its right
Check out my welding skills..... JB Welding skills!
Pistons cleaned and new rings installed into the hoaned cylinders.
And here is a little somthing that I did in class when I was bord of looking at the mis-castings from factory.
Looks alot better than the first pics I posted.
Here's the bottom end all back together at factory spec clerances and torque.
Is this right? I looked up where to tap like five times before drilling so i hope its right
Check out my welding skills..... JB Welding skills!
Pistons cleaned and new rings installed into the hoaned cylinders.
And here is a little somthing that I did in class when I was bord of looking at the mis-castings from factory.
Looks alot better than the first pics I posted.
#11
Yes, the oil drain is right. I just did mine yesterday in that same spot:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13658
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=13658
#18
I used a hand dremal (Black and Decker RTX) $25 at your local Walmart, with a stone grinding bit to take out the high spots and sharp edges then the sanding drum bit but i use a sand paper with a sticky back wraped around it starting at 180g the 220g. Then I took some maroon scotch bright and cut it into little squares and screwed them down on the cut off wheel mandrel, so when the center tightens down the edges lift up creating a ball shape bit and it seems to work nice. I only had to spend $15 on the three bits to do this. It was alot cheaper to use sand paper and scotchbrite than buying the dremal bits that are made with it on them.
And now some questions if anyone can answer them?
Are the HLA's sapose to be soft or hard when you try to push them in?
I soaked them in oil when they where out and try to get some to fill up buy pushing on them untill air stop coming out of the hole. Half of them soft and half are hard. I know some might be bad due to that it had bad ticking after long drives and cold starts before the tear down.
And now some questions if anyone can answer them?
Are the HLA's sapose to be soft or hard when you try to push them in?
I soaked them in oil when they where out and try to get some to fill up buy pushing on them untill air stop coming out of the hole. Half of them soft and half are hard. I know some might be bad due to that it had bad ticking after long drives and cold starts before the tear down.