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I buy almost all my couplers from speed daddy on ebay. Almost all the cheap couplers are going to come from the same few chinese factories.
Aluminum pipe is aluminum pipe if you are going to be cutting it.
Good call man, I ended up going with ebay for the silicone and siliconeintakes.com for the piping. Knocked about $50 the total vs if I had gone with all siliconeintakes stuff. Now I just have to suffer through waiting on ebay shipping....
I am waiting on my charge pipes and decided to mount the turbo. I hooked all the water lines up and the oil feed, but the drain was a bitch to get over the fitting I have. I spent like 20 minutes laying under the car just wiggling the hose on. After double checking all the connections I decided to start the car up and check for leaks. First though, I stuck the crossover tube and MAF/filter/snorkel back on upside down so I can have filtered air. It looks ridiculous but if its stupid and it works it's not stupid right? well too bad my **** doesnt work. After about 1 minute of idling i notice a little smoke coming off the turbo. I turned the car off and noticed a small leak at the oil feed inlet port on the top of the turbo (yes, I clocked it so the drain is straight down). I wasn't quite sure if that was what was burning so I wiped it away and cranked the fittings down. Then, I tried again with the same results (the leak lessened but the turbo smoked just as much).
My thoughts at this point are I have some sort of restriction. I think the most likely culprit is the drain line; I really had to smash it up against a thick coolant hose and I wouldn't be surprised if the small bend of about 10 degrees is enough to back the oil up. Tomorrow I will try flipping the drain fitting around to possibly give me a better, less kinky angle. If that doesn't fix it, I'll have to replace/move the coolant line.
I guess another possibility would be my coolant lines? The kraken kit came with banjo bolts but no copper washers so I bought some of those and cranked the bolts down pretty tight. would it be possible for the coolant to be sealed off resulting in a too-hot turbo? now that I'm typing this out it doesn't make much sense since I only ran the ran for a minute or two. the turbo did get hot enough too smoke nearly instantly though.
Alright go ahead and **** talk me but include some tips if youre going to bother with a reply
One big worry in the back of my mind is aluminum shavings from my drill/tap job getting into the turbo somehow. I used plenty of grease and replaced the oil afterwards but man that was a lot of ******* metal in my pan.
Double check the fittings you are using. Did you get your oil feed line from Kraken? I don't know what they supply, but for the turbo you bought on the product page it specifically says:
This turbo requires a 3an feed line. A 4an feed line will NOT work.
As for the aluminum shavings, did you at least attempt to flush it? If you're that concerned about the aluminum shavings, you have bigger things to worry about then the shavings "getting into the turbo"
Double check the fittings you are using. Did you get your oil feed line from Kraken? I don't know what they supply, but for the turbo you bought on the product page it specifically says:
This turbo requires a 3an feed line. A 4an feed line will NOT work.
As for the aluminum shavings, did you at least attempt to flush it? If you're that concerned about the aluminum shavings, you have bigger things to worry about then the shavings "getting into the turbo"
I'm using the -3 fitting.
I haven't flushed it, I wanted to circulate the oil and allow the filter to pick up some and I will just be changing the oil and filter this weekend.
In terms of the smoking issue: I re-ran the drain line around the other side of the radiator hose it was impeded by. The turbo itself no longer emits smoke but the tailpipe shot a few clouds out. It is likely that the original smoke I saw was indeed just chinese juices burning off. Either way, I ordered
on the recommendation of a redditor on /r/miata in the hopes that I can replace the 2 rubber hoses and metal bracketed hose entirely in order to completely free up the space under the turbo.
fixed the smoking problem. The radiator hose replacement helped make room for the drain line and compressor outlet silicone elbow, but did not eliminate the smoke. The only remaining possibility was that the drain line was backing up due to lack of downwards slope. I disconnected the line on the pan side and pointed the hose straight into a bucket, ZERO smoke from the exhaust. All I had to do was chop about 1-1/4" off the drain line and reconnect it. This way the hose was forced to point at the fitting at a slight angle (rather than leveling out as it connects to the oil pan) but it made all the difference.
The last of my charge pipes are coming tomorrow and we should be boosting by this weekend! the plan is to drive it around Friday night and double check everything for leaks, then throw it right back up on the stands to install the FM stage 1 clutch that was delivered yesterday. My (used 1.8l) flywheel is at a machine shop right now getting resurfaced so that should be ready for the install this weekend.
Edit: I will post some pictures when I get home because I was surprised at how just a slight angle change on the drain line from 0° (perfectly parallel to the ground at the fitting) to maybe 10° completely changed the flow of the oil. I'm sure someone in the future will appreciate the documentation.
Welp, we're boosted! I gotta remember how to edit my signature now..
I didn't get around to doing the clutch this weekend but the stock one seems to be holding at the current power level. I'm running wastegate pressure that equates to 8.5lbs max according to the MAP sensor. holy **** is this thing fun!!!
Remaining issues include a pretty major oil leak near the drain fitting (I think I may need to jb weld it into the block). I will have to clean the whole engine off and try to find that this week. It is enough oil to cause smoke after a pull which I don't like. Unfortunately I don't have the pics I promised but that will have to wait until I clean everything up down there because it is pretty gross lol.
As another 1.6er I'm curious how you're boosting. Post up a 3rd or 4th gear pull when you get the car on the road again. What are you using for an ignition table?
that oil leak I mentioned in the last post is bad. real bad, like oil all over my downpipe and basically anything under the turbo bad. The good news is I pulled the turbo tonight to check everything out and the only thing that was suspect was the drain flange gasket. See pic. Seemed to be soaked through and some oil was found dripping down the exterior of the hose. Guess that’s what I get for using the included gasket fromthe $15 drain flange from amazon...
I ordered a new one (ATP) and the car is parked until then. Taking the chance to clean the whole engine bay so I can track leaks better if they persist. I’m just curious if a gasket leak on the drain side is even possible to spray (yes, spray) oil all over the place down there?? I’m not sure how much oil runs through that drain during driving but I guess it could be enough to match up with the leaked amount. But there isn’t any pressure past the drain so why would it spray out?
just to cover my bases I also checked and cleaned the block feed fitting and put threadlocker on it. Seemed to be dry around that area. I’m also JB welding the fitting into the oil pan so that is covered.
But there isn’t any pressure past the drain so why would it spray out?
Because there is actually a lot of air moving through the bay at speed. I had my drain line loosen at the turbo which resulted in a James Bond style smoke screen while making a high RPM on-ramp pull. Oil leaked at the turbo fitting and was blown directly at my downpipe and anything else below and behind it.
I didn't need it, but I had a fire extinguisher in the trunk. You should too.
... resulted in a James Bond style smoke screen while making a high RPM on-ramp pull. Oil leaked at the turbo fitting and was blown directly at my downpipe and anything else below and behind it.
This is all too similar to my issue. High rpm + at speed is when the smoke gets worst. Really hoping the gasket will solve this.
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
I didn't need it, but I had a fire extinguisher in the trunk. You should too.
I’m all for the fire extinguisher. Is there a popular one people like on here? I’ve seen a lot of cheap ones used in YouTube videos while someone is on track and they seem to just puff a little powder out. I don’t want to need to use it and have it be ineffective...
Because there is actually a lot of air moving through the bay at speed. I had my drain line loosen at the turbo which resulted in a James Bond style smoke screen while making a high RPM on-ramp pull. Oil leaked at the turbo fitting and was blown directly at my downpipe and anything else below and behind it.
I didn't need it, but I had a fire extinguisher in the trunk. You should too.
Thread revival! I never updated after my oil leak thing. I tracked it with UV dye; my turbo drain line was backing up. chopped it to a better length and everything has been fine since November. The FM stage 1 clutch barely feels heavier than stock. and the car is so much damn fun! ive put about 8k on it with no issues. Will update when I do diff+axles+wheels+tires (:
Thread revival! I never updated after my oil leak thing. I tracked it with UV dye; my turbo drain line was backing up. chopped it to a better length and everything has been fine since November. The FM stage 1 clutch barely feels heavier than stock. and the car is so much damn fun! ive put about 8k on it with no issues. Will update when I do diff+axles+wheels+tires (:
Nice, did you end up doing the diff and axles yet?
10-10-2018, 12:52 PM
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