Cant clock this pos t25 *rant* - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 10-29-2008, 04:56 PM   #21
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T4, you're in a very common place right now.
OEM turbo's that have never been apart and have gone through thousands of heat cycles are a bitch to disassemble... or in your case, clock.

Everybody is giving you good advice, just be patient.
Remove the compressor housing before doing any of this and be very careful through the whole process not to damage any of the compressor blades. You'll need the aforementioned large retaining ring pliers... Harbor Freight or Northern Tool FTW!

Then, penetrating fluid of some kind at least overnight. PBBlaster or Liquid Wrench are the 2 most common ones. Then, IN THE FREEZER OVERNIGHT!!! Following morning, clamp the CHRA in a vice... probably need a couple small wood blocks... there are flat spots on the oil/water inlet/outlets depending on your particular Garret model.

Then, hit that bitch with a torch all the way around the turbine housing... keep torch flame away from CHRA as much as possible. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CHRA IF YOU MAKE CONTACT WITH REGULAR METAL HAMMER!!! I have a small 3lb beater hammer, and I'm very careful to make precise contact on the heaviest parts of the turbine housing when smacking one of these off.

IIRC, you will 99% probably not be able to simply "clock" the CHRA if it's never been off the turbine housing. You can smack the flange all you want trying to get it to rotate, but when it finally budges, the thing will just pop off. When it finally pops, you'll have the room to remove the bolts that were being blocked by he fluid ports. Take the time to carefully inspect the inside of the turbine housing and the turbine blades.... post pics here if you think something doesn't look right.

When you've gotten everything lined up properly and are ready to tighten the 4 bolts again, be sure you tighten each bolt a little at a time, creating even distrubution of pressure. After each round of incremental tightening, smack the turbine housing with your hammer lightly to make sure things are fully seating.

Your only option for the bolts is an open-end wrench or crescent wrench... BE VERY ******* CAREFUL LIKE WHEN YOU TOUCHED YOUR FIRST BOOB when tightening the bolts so you don't round one off. If you round off one of the bolts, you're fucked bad because you can really only get the wrench on one facet at a time and you'll never be able to put enough pressure on the rounded side again to get it to turn far enough to engage the next facet.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:24 PM   #22
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Still can't get it off. I've tried heat, pb blaster, rubber mallet, pipe in the inlet...and still no turning...I'm running out of options here.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo_4 View Post
Still can't get it off. I've tried heat, pb blaster, rubber mallet, pipe in the inlet...and still no turning...I'm running out of options here.
You're not running out of options, they're still all the same. Unless it was welded on there it will come off eventually. Just keep at it. Did you try to keep loosening the bolts into the CHRA until it presses the housing off like I suggested?
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by wayne_curr View Post
You're not running out of options, they're still all the same. Unless it was welded on there it will come off eventually. Just keep at it. Did you try to keep loosening the bolts into the CHRA until it presses the housing off like I suggested?
Yeah but what they did was start to grind into the side of the housing and mess up the bolts/chra. I have the turbo in the oven right now and I'm going to see if I can get it out if it's really hot. We will see I guess.
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:41 PM   #25
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Put it in a shipping box and mail it to me. I will get that thing to move for you and only charge you $20. Otherwise try harder and listen to exactly what me and especially samnavy have wrote. Samnavy I think wrote the sticky on the turbo rebuild, which I followed and had much luck with. You said you were using a torch. Please don't even say a propane torch like used for soldering copper pipe. When I said I used a torch, I meant an acetylene torch like used for cutting / brazing.
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:07 PM   #26
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I don't have a torch. I've been using my oven. I was able to get the housing to rotate just now but it was the intake housing not the exhaust so that didn't help me out at all. After beating it with a mallet I've gotten it to back out like 1mm.
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:29 PM   #27
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I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!! klskjdlfskj!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just stuck it in the oven for 20mins at 400 degrees. Then with a combination of hitting it and turning the one bolt that hit the chra it finally came out!!! Thank jebus that's over with. Btw, it appears to be in tip top shape, no bent blades, no shaft play :-)
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:45 PM   #28
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Congratulations with your dilema! Parts like these that have been through thousands of heat cycles are many times a real bitch to deal with. I'm glad you got it and best of luck with your setup.
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Old 10-31-2008, 09:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Brake fluid makes a damn good penetrating oil too. So is Kroil, but it's known to cause cancer in Cali. So make sure you drive outside that state if you live there...

+1 to freezing it and then heating the part that's stuck. Thermal expansion FTW.

BTW, I was sent an ad from Kano Labs (Kroil), they have something that they think is better, Silikroil, Kroil with Silicone added. They also have a buy 1 get 2 deal going on.

As for Kroil, I haven't used anything better. Should be interesting to see the Silikroil work.

KanoLabs.com
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