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Old 03-06-2008, 03:37 PM   #1
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Default Can't clock the turbo... Help?

So i picked up a mitsu t25 and im trying to clock the center to turn the drain downward and the compressor housing back to the top. But.... it's stuck! The turbo has never been apart and is out of a 98 talon. I have Break away on it and tryed the backing out of the 4 bolt against the center cast and still no luck?. Anybody have a good idea what next to do? Oh and its the style with the long neck on the compressor housing if that helps (not my pic) but like this with the wastegate removed.
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:39 PM   #2
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massive amounts of heat.
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:44 PM   #3
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Thats what i was thinking... I have to grab my MAP tourch from work tonight and see if it helps. And it dont help that its like 10* in my garage and can't feel my fingers prying on it. Would you think it could crack if I get it hot than cool down outside when its that cold out?
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:47 PM   #4
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Lots of force too. I put the rubber handle of a hammer in the exhaust inlet and pulled on that for leverage. Having two people doesn't hurt either.
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:53 PM   #5
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I've owned a couple of those. I had to use a 3 lb hammer to get it to rotate.
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:17 PM   #6
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So, you have the 4 bolts and the 2 clips off.
Do this:
Remove the compressor housing.
Spray the mating CHRA/Turbine mating joint with PBBlaster and let it sit for a few hours.
Put the whole thing in the freezer overnight.
In the morning, remove and clamp the CHRA in a vice.
Hit the turbine housing with a torch for about 5minutes... some light tapping is all it will need.

Make sure the CHRA is clamped in tight!!!
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:35 PM   #7
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damn sam, done this once or twice...lol

to OP, do try sams method and good luck with that, i know how painful the alternative can get, and im also a bit on the scared side of beating the turbo with a hammer, it just does not feel good
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:41 PM   #8
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My first "build" consisted of purchasing 5 blown DSM T25's, dismantling them, and using the best parts of each one to build 1 turbo. It lasted a couple hundred miles and then **** itself.

I learned... and bought a freshly rebuilt SR20det T25 and its been strong for 15kmiles.
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Old 03-06-2008, 08:45 PM   #9
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somehow i knew there was a story behind that specific of an advise
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:06 PM   #10
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As long as the wastegate is disconnected, will prying on it hurt anything? Is there anything in between the housings you can damage? I'm going to be clocking mine soon.
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:10 PM   #11
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Ok so I got it apart with bp blaster and mapp tourch but I used a screwdriver between the bolts and center. Will this work if I run charge outlet at like 5 0'clock ?
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Old 03-06-2008, 09:32 PM   #12
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as long as the oil feed is near vertical, you can run it in any configuration you want....
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:50 PM   #13
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The compressorhousing/CHRA/turbinehousing are 3 independent pieces that don't care at all how they are in relation to each other.

There are only 3 things that have to match. The turbine housing is going to be in a fixed position relative to the manifold. The CHRA must connect to the turbine housing so that when mounted on the manifold, the OIL INLET/OUTLET is vertical. The compressor housing must then mount to the CHRA so that the wastegate actuator is in the correct position to connect to the flapper.

If you need the compressor housing in a specific orientation for the outlet pipe... IE, you need the outlet to aim down, you may need to purchase/fabricate a bracket to mount your actuator to so that it will actually actuate.

The good thing about the DSM actuator is that it mounts to the back of the compressor housing. You can mount it anywhere on the back of the housing you want... just drill and tap new holes. I run a DSM actuator on my Nisan turbo cause it was so easy... you can drill/tap the back of any compressor housing and that thing will fit. Compressor housings or actuators that mount the actuator to the front of the compressor are much more limited in what you can do.
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:08 PM   #14
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The one in the pic is exactly what I use. I was able to clock mine ok with the oil drain down but I had to remount my actuator at a different location which as stated is quite easy. Drill a couple of new holes and tap them. Use loctite when bolting back on.
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:12 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the feed back it helped alot.
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Old 12-24-2014, 01:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
The compressorhousing/CHRA/turbinehousing are 3 independent pieces that don't care at all how they are in relation to each other.

There are only 3 things that have to match. The turbine housing is going to be in a fixed position relative to the manifold. The CHRA must connect to the turbine housing so that when mounted on the manifold, the OIL INLET/OUTLET is vertical. The compressor housing must then mount to the CHRA so that the wastegate actuator is in the correct position to connect to the flapper.

If you need the compressor housing in a specific orientation for the outlet pipe... IE, you need the outlet to aim down, you may need to purchase/fabricate a bracket to mount your actuator to so that it will actually actuate.

The good thing about the DSM actuator is that it mounts to the back of the compressor housing. You can mount it anywhere on the back of the housing you want... just drill and tap new holes. I run a DSM actuator on my Nisan turbo cause it was so easy... you can drill/tap the back of any compressor housing and that thing will fit. Compressor housings or actuators that mount the actuator to the front of the compressor are much more limited in what you can do.
Haters gunna hate, but I'd rather grave dig than start a new thread.

Sam, is this the magical DSM actuator you speak of? This install would be a ton easier if I could clock my T25 however I please and fix the wastegate bracket later...

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