Cheap Turbo Kit - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 05-02-2016, 05:49 PM   #21
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,775
Total Cats: 1,106
Default



This picture is the only thing you need to look at to make you swap in the 1.8 engine before you spend a single penny on turbo parts.
Attached Thumbnails
Cheap Turbo Kit-80-168533_turbo_too_small_80_blob_03177588c30e51b7876634d7caee8f32e0e72bba_43637df6a515cfe751712.png  
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 05:57 PM   #22
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,843
Total Cats: 271
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
This picture is the only thing you need to look at to make you swap in the 1.8 engine before you spend a single penny on turbo parts.
Area under curve

drug being turbo...
Girz0r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 06:31 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: NorthWest NJ
Posts: 1,062
Total Cats: 48
Default

Like everyone is saying, do your research. It will really depend on your end goals just what kit you want to go with. Also, search high and low and keep an eye out everywhere for good deals. My friend managed to pick up a "formerly" greddy kit for his 1.6 for $300 since the person didn't know what he had (we didn't either until I saw the kit in a good picture and noticed it wasn't a cast mani). Turned out to be a cerikoted ARtech manifold, 10mm inconel studs with locking hardware, upgraded down pipe, oil lines, heat sheild and intake piping. Along with the greddy TD04H-15g. Good deals exist, scower craigslist.

That said, when I am done toying with my supercharger and 1.6, I will be doing 1.8 with either a TSE kit or, if I feel confidant, making my own.

Stock clutch and dif are holding in my friend's car at 140-150ish hp (guessing). But it is just a street car with all season tires.
x_25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 06:39 PM   #24
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
Total Cats: -3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you forgot the 1.8L brakes...
I plan to upgrade everything, including a roll cage and whatnot, i gotta take this one step at a time I suppose, including some basic maintenance. got any ire brands to suggest?
fkyguy124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 06:46 PM   #25
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 15,669
Total Cats: 1,560
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fkyguy124 View Post
I plan to upgrade everything, including a roll cage and whatnot, i gotta take this one step at a time I suppose, including some basic maintenance. got any ire brands to suggest?
Roll cage or rollbar? Two very different things. One of them involves removing the side windows and gutting the doors.

I would change Shuiend's list to put replacing the 1.6 diff first. They fail at stock power with regularity.
sixshooter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 07:24 PM   #26
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
Total Cats: -3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
Roll cage or rollbar? Two very different things. One of them involves removing the side windows and gutting the doors.

I would change Shuiend's list to put replacing the 1.6 diff first. They fail at stock power with regularity.
Roll BAR, sorry. and understood ^^
fkyguy124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2016, 03:57 PM   #27
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Hayden, CO
Posts: 152
Total Cats: -1
Default

Great thread. Looking forward to seeing how this plays out.
bawward is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2016, 04:24 PM   #28
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Plano TX
Posts: 595
Total Cats: 2
Default

Ok I am sure this will get me flamed but.
If 1.6 its a long nose aren't used manifold less. I know they don't make near the power but for the budget minded ur saying they r trash.
When I changed to 1.8 it was a new manifold. Redo oil feed. Use same down pipe?

Seems he could start with 1.6 and upgrade later.
Just a thought
DON'T TAZE ME BRO
90 Turbo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2016, 04:55 PM   #29
TheCarPassionChannel
 
1993z32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 157
Total Cats: 79
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
This picture is the only thing you need to look at to make you swap in the 1.8 engine before you spend a single penny on turbo parts.
Preface: I am not supporting boosting a 1.6 instead of a 1.8.

There HAS to be something up with that excel dyno comparison. 1.6 making 150wtq @ 4000??? Did someone drill a hole in the wastegate flapper?
1993z32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2016, 05:31 PM   #30
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,775
Total Cats: 1,106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993z32 View Post
Preface: I am not supporting boosting a 1.6 instead of a 1.8.

There HAS to be something up with that excel dyno comparison. 1.6 making 150wtq @ 4000??? Did someone drill a hole in the wastegate flapper?
I will see if I can dig up more info later. I believe the 1.8 is my begi s1 setup that I ran years ago, and the 1.6 is an artech setup that curly tuned. Braineack would know for sure because he made the graph.
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 09:29 AM   #31
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,860
Total Cats: 1,788
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993z32 View Post
There HAS to be something up with that excel dyno comparison. 1.6 making 150wtq @ 4000??? Did someone drill a hole in the wastegate flapper?

There's nothing wrong with my excel dyno comparison (or that turbo).

That particular turbo isn't the fastest spooling, i can find plenty of plots with it on a 1.6L looking exactly the same, but on a 1.8L it just performs so much better.


That was Shuiend's setup vs. Curly. I'll find the plots.

Last edited by Braineack; 05-05-2016 at 09:55 AM.
Braineack is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 10:34 AM   #32
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
Total Cats: -3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90 Turbo View Post
Ok I am sure this will get me flamed but.
If 1.6 its a long nose aren't used manifold less. I know they don't make near the power but for the budget minded ur saying they r trash.
When I changed to 1.8 it was a new manifold. Redo oil feed. Use same down pipe?

Seems he could start with 1.6 and upgrad later.
Just a thought
DON'T TAZE ME BRO
I'll be honest, knowing this I MAY just buy a miata with a 1.8L instead on an engine swap. I don't have the garage for that at the moment and can't afford to rent a spot yet. I'd save money just getting a new one
fkyguy124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 11:11 AM   #33
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,860
Total Cats: 1,788
Default

yeah there's so much you have to do to get a 1.6L on the same level as a 1.8L, besides just the motor.
Braineack is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 11:12 AM   #34
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,775
Total Cats: 1,106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fkyguy124 View Post
I'll be honest, knowing this I MAY just buy a miata with a 1.8L instead on an engine swap. I don't have the garage for that at the moment and can't afford to rent a spot yet. I'd save money just getting a new one
If you don't already have a miata. Then starting with a 94+ is highly recommended. You get a better engine, a better rear end, better brakes, and better chassis bracing. The only reason I would ever tell someone to buy a 1.6 car is if they need it for a specific racing class, want a 93LE, or a color that only came in 90-93. Otherwise it is always better and cheaper to start with a 1.8 car.
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 11:29 AM   #35
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Israel
Posts: 418
Total Cats: -43
Default

+1
And better yet, get an nb2 with hard S/Sport suspension. Biggest brakes (You'll want that in an na sooner or later). Chassis bracing underneath, VVT for mid range torque. Better tire choices.
And the obvious things like a younger car, better shape interior/exterior and all that.
Unless you are absolutely broke, the 3k$ premium is worth it.
yossi126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 11:31 AM   #36
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
 
shuiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 13,775
Total Cats: 1,106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yossi126 View Post
+1
And better yet, get an nb2 with hard S/Sport suspension. Biggest brakes (You'll want that in an na sooner or later). Chassis bracing underneath, VVT for mid range torque.
And the obvious things like a younger car, better shape interior/exterior and all that.
Unless you are absolutely broke, the 3k$ premium is worth it.
Dependsd on location and if you have emissions testing or not. I personally will take a 94 over any NB2 just because you can get past a emissions dyno with a good cat and a good tune on a MS.
shuiend is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 11:39 AM   #37
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Israel
Posts: 418
Total Cats: -43
Default

I actually failed my first emissions with the megasquirt still n/a. I have an idea why, but I just wanted to get out of there so I plugged the stock ecu.
Next time will be with the turbo so the car won't even pass the visual, so smissions is the least of my worries.
yossi126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 12:13 PM   #38
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
Total Cats: -3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by yossi126 View Post
I actually failed my first emissions with the megasquirt still n/a. I have an idea why, but I just wanted to get out of there so I plugged the stock ecu.
Next time will be with the turbo so the car won't even pass the visual, so smissions is the least of my worries.
Did you replace the o2 Sensor with a wide band and remove the correct fuse? I don't think the stock narrow band will communicate properly. Either way you can probably replace the ecu when you need to get your sticker, then reinstall megasquirt until it expires again (take care of the sensor again though)
fkyguy124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 12:16 PM   #39
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 12
Total Cats: -3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
If you don't already have a miata. Then starting with a 94+ is highly recommended. You get a better engine, a better rear end, better brakes, and better chassis bracing. The only reason I would ever tell someone to buy a 1.6 car is if they need it for a specific racing class, want a 93LE, or a color that only came in 90-93. Otherwise it is always better and cheaper to start with a 1.8 car.
That's what I hear a lot. Isn't the compression ratio also better or was that on later models?
fkyguy124 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-05-2016, 12:52 PM   #40
Sadfab Union President
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,690
Total Cats: 113
Default

For whatever it's worth, a MKturbo setup on a 1.6 should have absolutely no problem making a torque curve like Brian has on that 1.8 excel chart there. It should take more boost to do it, but mine will overspool 16 pounds at 3,000 rpm on a 4th roll and I'm not even using e85 any more. I seem to be just as fast as a slightly heavier NB running the same kit on the 1/4, which is cool.



Everyone else has made valid points on the 1.8 superiority for all the other reasons, but the 1.6 is not much worse than a stock rod 1.8 when set up right on the cheap. My car came cheap enough and I trusted myself to show restraint while upgrading weak parts. As I've built my setup swapping to a 1.8 is just a manifold away, and maybe cutting and rewelding my downpipe once or twice.
Attached Thumbnails
Cheap Turbo Kit-mjbjf4c.jpg  
deezums is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Review: SADFab Delrin Bushing Kit Arca_ex Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 61 05-15-2017 10:57 AM
Turbo Question JCB GT2560s Herbst DIY Turbo Discussion 11 05-13-2017 10:55 PM
Miata Turbo Shuts Off faviles5566 DIY Turbo Discussion 37 04-11-2016 07:11 PM
I want to buy a used working turbocharger MUlticamzebra1990 WTB 1 03-27-2016 03:39 PM
Questions about alternator control in my Exocet boileralum MEGAsquirt 6 03-19-2016 08:07 PM


Tags
auto dynasty, kit, miata, turbo

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:42 AM.