Clocking Garrett 2560 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to   Members

DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-19-2015, 06:20 PM   #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 151
Total Cats: -12
Default Clocking Garrett 2560

First off, I've done quite a few searches and have tried all the solutions provided on them. I'm in the middle of the install at the moment and need some more help than what I've gotten from the threads so far.

I'm trying to get my oil drain line pointing down at 6 o'clock and have loosened the bolts on my compressor housing and can freely rotate my compressor housing. However, the center housing (the middle piece with oil drain) will not move no matter what force I place on it. It seems that the other threads suggest that the compressor housing and center housing usually move together once loosened. I've loosened the other end but cannot remove it as I have 2 bolts that are being blocked by the oil drain from the center piece.

I've been hitting it with a rubber mallet, but am pretty afraid of breaking something in there.. Should I just be using a bit more force to loosen up the center piece?
Chowcow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 09:19 AM   #2  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 74
Total Cats: -2

Sorry,I have no first hand experience but try checking out a disassembly video on YouTube?
4strings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2015, 10:32 AM   #3  
Junior Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cary, NC
Posts: 494
Total Cats: 6

You need to loosen the bolts on the turbine housing, and use some needlenose pliers to squeeze the large snapring on the compressor housing while you try to rotate the CHRA. It can be difficult without the right tool. I ended up buying some huge angled needlenose from Harbor Freight and grinding a slanted edge into the tips a little to grip inside the snapring holes better. Don't even try it with a small set of needlenose, you will hate life.

EDIT:Ignore me, I misread the post so i think my advice is not helpful

Last edited by rigidbigelsworth; 04-22-2015 at 03:40 PM.
rigidbigelsworth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2015, 02:22 PM   #4  
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 281
Total Cats: 12

Remove the oil drain. Remove all bolts (4?) in the exhaust housing. Using a rubber mallet, carefully hit the exhaust housing until it comes off. Put it back together with the exhaust drain facing downwards. Put the bolts back in.
Leach0789 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 01:59 AM   #5  
iTrader: (76)
18psi's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 34,667
Total Cats: 3,003

you need penetrating oil and heat
most likely heat. to break the chra loose from the hotside
18psi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 04:49 AM   #6  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 1,328
Total Cats: 81

I used a (6 ft) pry bar. Prying between a block of wood and side of the oil drain.

You could probably use something smaller. But this was convenient. lol

No damage to any components.
Schuyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 11:24 AM   #7  
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Cranston, RI
Posts: 281
Total Cats: 12

What condition is this turbo in? I originally bought a heavily used turbo and was unable to separate or clock the components. Even 2 hours of labor at a shop couldn't do it. I ended up tossing it and picking up a newly rebuilt turbo instead.
Leach0789 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 03:35 PM   #8  
Junior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 113
Total Cats: 1

When I had a particularly stubborn 2560 before that wouldn't budge, a shop used a bar that they threaded into the oil drain port while the turbine housing was on a vise. This plus heat/torch and tapping with a dead blow hammer eventually allowed us to clock the CHRA.
bogly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2015, 03:58 PM   #9  
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: ATL
Posts: 765
Total Cats: 51

Heat, and "gentle" persuasion are your only answer (that, or giving up).
rwyatt365 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2015, 03:34 PM   #10  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 456
Total Cats: 6

I had to freeze the turbo, then heat up the outer housing and use a very large pipe to get mine loose. 2 days and it worked awesome, now it moves whenever I want it to.
MicaCeli is offline   Reply With Quote

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Garrett Turbo, 1.8 Oil Pan, & Misc. Stuff nbdooey Miata parts for sale/trade 9 08-30-2017 09:50 PM
LucaCarMods's Boosted Dutch Miata Build! LucaCarMods Build Threads 11 02-14-2016 06:13 AM
Complete BEGI S3 NB Kit, Full Enthuza 3" Exhaust, ACT HD Clutch, MS2 PNP, Wideband kronikker Miata parts for sale/trade 17 10-06-2015 10:18 PM
Noob to Miataturbo from MA JxPhan Meet and Greet 3 10-02-2015 02:17 AM
WTB Begi cast manifold & t25 turbo Heyitsryan WTB 0 09-12-2015 08:47 PM

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:49 PM.

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites.