Clocking turbo=fail...
#21
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GAHHHHH
Ok, no you do not have to loosen the bolts you circled. They are for taking the turbine wheel backing off. You already have the bolts loose that need to be, at least it looks like you do.
Now, what you need is some heat with a torch and a dead blow hammer. Put the center section in a vice so it will not rotate, heat up the turbine housing, and wack the flange a few times. That should get it free.
The problem is the center section and the turbine are cast iron, allowing for rust if let to sit. That and all the carbon deposits from the exhaust help to fuse the two together.
Ok, no you do not have to loosen the bolts you circled. They are for taking the turbine wheel backing off. You already have the bolts loose that need to be, at least it looks like you do.
Now, what you need is some heat with a torch and a dead blow hammer. Put the center section in a vice so it will not rotate, heat up the turbine housing, and wack the flange a few times. That should get it free.
The problem is the center section and the turbine are cast iron, allowing for rust if let to sit. That and all the carbon deposits from the exhaust help to fuse the two together.
#22
I'm Miserable!
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: North Carolina
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After much swearing and throwing the deadblow around the shop. It came loose, I literally had to walk around the center section with the torch for about 12min constant.
thanks for the info guys, sorry to bother you all. Car is done and ready for the dyno, ready to sleep now and dream about mt.net saving me from the anti-clocking dragons.
Drank too much.....
thanks for the info guys, sorry to bother you all. Car is done and ready for the dyno, ready to sleep now and dream about mt.net saving me from the anti-clocking dragons.
Drank too much.....
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