coolant reroute sensor/begi kit
#22
Get one of these from BEGi:
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=299
or one of these from Flatout Motorsports:
http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...roducts_id/255
Either will allow you to put a temp sensor into the main line coming out the back of the head without having to drill/tap anything. I'm using BEGi's "upper rad hose spice" with a GM CLT sensor on my TEC3.
The other option if you are afraid of messing up your new head and you are using a hardpipe under the ITM, get a bung welded onto it and plug the CLT there.
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=299
or one of these from Flatout Motorsports:
http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...roducts_id/255
Either will allow you to put a temp sensor into the main line coming out the back of the head without having to drill/tap anything. I'm using BEGi's "upper rad hose spice" with a GM CLT sensor on my TEC3.
The other option if you are afraid of messing up your new head and you are using a hardpipe under the ITM, get a bung welded onto it and plug the CLT there.
#23
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Get one of these from BEGi:
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=299
or one of these from Flatout Motorsports:
http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...roducts_id/255
Either will allow you to put a temp sensor into the main line coming out the back of the head without having to drill/tap anything. I'm using BEGi's "upper rad hose spice" with a GM CLT sensor on my TEC3.
The other option if you are afraid of messing up your new head and you are using a hardpipe under the ITM, get a bung welded onto it and plug the CLT there.
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=299
or one of these from Flatout Motorsports:
http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...roducts_id/255
Either will allow you to put a temp sensor into the main line coming out the back of the head without having to drill/tap anything. I'm using BEGi's "upper rad hose spice" with a GM CLT sensor on my TEC3.
The other option if you are afraid of messing up your new head and you are using a hardpipe under the ITM, get a bung welded onto it and plug the CLT there.
#24
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Why will this not work? I can use the plug on the bottom right, above the water nipple for the green topped senor, then hopefully use the plug in the side of the water neck for the gauge sender.
1.6 car with a 99-head, FM coil bracket, 99 front water neck. lol
1.6 car with a 99-head, FM coil bracket, 99 front water neck. lol
#26
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I wish i had thought of this sooner, but my damn garage is like a jigsaw puzzle of "extra" parts...most of the parts I plan on using are in labeled bags, but apparently when I get into the junk pile, I find cool **** like this.
#27
I used the JR spacer and a waterneck off a Kia that aimed the hose to the coldside. I tapped the head for the heater core hose, put the small one prong coolant sender on the driver side of the 99 head right near where I tapped for the heater hose nipple. I tapped that 30mm plug that goes in place of the OEM waterneck for the coolant temp sensor, then lengthened the wires. The thermostat went between the head and JR spacer, heater hose nipple is in the head so it is before the thermostat.
My new problem with the reroute is the IC to TB pipe is in the way of my original reroute hoses. I have to get some more rubber coolant hoses to re-reroute things.
Anyone have an extra ignition coil bracket for a 1.8L. Mine is broken on the driver side where it bolts to the valve cover.
My new problem with the reroute is the IC to TB pipe is in the way of my original reroute hoses. I have to get some more rubber coolant hoses to re-reroute things.
Anyone have an extra ignition coil bracket for a 1.8L. Mine is broken on the driver side where it bolts to the valve cover.
#29
I did essentially what Stephanie is doing for you. I tapped the spacer for the 2-prong sensor and also for a heater nipple. The 99503 spot is where I put the single prong sensor. It fit perfectly.
Haven't started the motor yet, hope it works.
#31
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damn hustler, if you post another pic of that motor outside the car i am going to ship a rabid monkey with aids to dallas to rape you, then bite you to give you the rabbies, then rape you one more time just to let you know who is boss, then the rabid aids monkey is NEVER going to call you back again.
#32
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damn hustler, if you post another pic of that motor outside the car i am going to ship a rabid monkey with aids to dallas to rape you, then bite you to give you the rabbies, then rape you one more time just to let you know who is boss, then the rabid aids monkey is NEVER going to call you back again.
If I could do it all over again, I'd just stick with the 1.6.
#35
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Do you think I can drill out the back where the circle is and fit a 90* barb there? this could work afterall.
Where should I go to find taps?
#36
Yes- you can just cap it OR you could feed the turbo... I can't remember if the 99 needs a coolant source for anything else on that side, but if not, cap it.
You might also be able to remove that piece using some of that CRC Freeze on it and twisting... Then again, drilling it out and tapping it allows you some room for error. And it looks like it would put your 90 fitting far enough out on the head. Harbor Freight sells an NPT tap set for cheap. I've used them on aluminum only, but they never failed me.
btw- this is yet another place a cheap mig would help. Using brass fittings really cuts back on the internal diameter, whereas a right angle welded on using some tubing would retain the diameter of that OE pipe (assuming it's as big as it appears).
You might also be able to remove that piece using some of that CRC Freeze on it and twisting... Then again, drilling it out and tapping it allows you some room for error. And it looks like it would put your 90 fitting far enough out on the head. Harbor Freight sells an NPT tap set for cheap. I've used them on aluminum only, but they never failed me.
btw- this is yet another place a cheap mig would help. Using brass fittings really cuts back on the internal diameter, whereas a right angle welded on using some tubing would retain the diameter of that OE pipe (assuming it's as big as it appears).
#37
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I guess I could also just chock the pipe off my bell flange, put a heater port in it, and get on with my life...I just have to find someone who can weld aluminum.
anyone have a link to the JR spacer? I can't find that ****.
anyone have a link to the JR spacer? I can't find that ****.
#38
#39
What do you think about this ?
Wonder if we can get some dimensions...I'll find out.
Another groupbuy? lol
Edit: Dude I talked to is a total tool, says "the dimensions is 1 inch thick and has two holes"
That spacer is for a chevy small/big block, so if anyone knows the dimensions please post them up.
Wonder if we can get some dimensions...I'll find out.
Another groupbuy? lol
Edit: Dude I talked to is a total tool, says "the dimensions is 1 inch thick and has two holes"
That spacer is for a chevy small/big block, so if anyone knows the dimensions please post them up.
Last edited by Zabac; 07-23-2008 at 02:00 PM. Reason: info