I'll know something this weekend then.

 

Get one of these from BEGi:
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...roducts_id=299

or one of these from Flatout Motorsports:
http://www.flatout-motorsports.com/c...roducts_id/255

Either will allow you to put a temp sensor into the main line coming out the back of the head without having to drill/tap anything. I'm using BEGi's "upper rad hose spice" with a GM CLT sensor on my TEC3.

The other option if you are afraid of messing up your new head and you are using a hardpipe under the ITM, get a bung welded onto it and plug the CLT there.

 

but you can't put the temp sensor on the radiator side of the t-stat, it has to be on the engine side or you're going to have huge temp differentials from the engine to the sensor in the winter.

 

Why will this not work? I can use the plug on the bottom right, above the water nipple for the green topped senor, then hopefully use the plug in the side of the water neck for the gauge sender.




1.6 car with a 99-head, FM coil bracket, 99 front water neck. lol

 

I don't see any reason that won't work.

So when you install this motor are you going to install your 1.6 CAS on the exhaust cam or do something else?

 

On the exhaust cam, how everyone else does it. Will it interfere? I can't check that because I don't have the 1.6 out yet. I just need to get a 160* bend water hose and I can use the rest of the bell re-route kit.

I wish i had thought of this sooner, but my damn garage is like a jigsaw puzzle of "extra" parts...most of the parts I plan on using are in labeled bags, but apparently when I get into the junk pile, I find cool **** like this.

 

I used the JR spacer and a waterneck off a Kia that aimed the hose to the coldside. I tapped the head for the heater core hose, put the small one prong coolant sender on the driver side of the 99 head right near where I tapped for the heater hose nipple. I tapped that 30mm plug that goes in place of the OEM waterneck for the coolant temp sensor, then lengthened the wires. The thermostat went between the head and JR spacer, heater hose nipple is in the head so it is before the thermostat.

My new problem with the reroute is the IC to TB pipe is in the way of my original reroute hoses. I have to get some more rubber coolant hoses to re-reroute things.

Anyone have an extra ignition coil bracket for a 1.8L. Mine is broken on the driver side where it bolts to the valve cover.

 

Hustler, the 1.6 CAS will go right in the '99 head. Only one bolt will line up, not a big deal.

 

I have the BEGI reroute too. Mine wouldn't fit with the factory flange. The sensor with the green top was tight against the firewall and the connector could not be plugged in. I had to put a freeze plug in the back of the spacer then I fabricated a flat aluminum plate to go on top of that.

I did essentially what Stephanie is doing for you. I tapped the spacer for the 2-prong sensor and also for a heater nipple. The 99503 spot is where I put the single prong sensor. It fit perfectly.

Haven't started the motor yet, hope it works.

 

****, I forgot about the heater port. This **** is gay.

 

damn hustler, if you post another pic of that motor outside the car i am going to ship a rabid monkey with aids to dallas to rape you, then bite you to give you the rabbies, then rape you one more time just to let you know who is boss, then the rabid aids monkey is NEVER going to call you back again.

 

I'm so ******* frustrated. I lost all the studs from my **** during ceramic coating, broke a bolt in the head today, still don't have reroute parts, some begi parts are getting shipped to the wrong state, and I apparently am missing the alternator tensioner bracket.

If I could do it all over again, I'd just stick with the 1.6.

 

Depends on what you're using the for I suppose. It's been awhile since I've done my reroute, but isn't the green top sensor the one that was top of the t-stat cap, between the engine and the rad in the OEM setup?

 

Install the thermosensor in the port where the bolt/plug is. Drill out the end of the coolant feed that runs to the mani and use that end as your heater core feed. Then chop/weld the neck on the mixer (or use a 90 hose) so it goes ~90* to the right UNDER the coil pack.

 

ok, look at the circle you drew...doesn't that little nipple go to the oil cooler, which is now gone? Can't I just cap that like my 1991?

Do you think I can drill out the back where the circle is and fit a 90* barb there? this could work afterall.

Where should I go to find taps?

 

Yes- you can just cap it OR you could feed the turbo... I can't remember if the 99 needs a coolant source for anything else on that side, but if not, cap it.

You might also be able to remove that piece using some of that CRC Freeze on it and twisting... Then again, drilling it out and tapping it allows you some room for error. And it looks like it would put your 90 fitting far enough out on the head. Harbor Freight sells an NPT tap set for cheap. I've used them on aluminum only, but they never failed me.

btw- this is yet another place a cheap mig would help. Using brass fittings really cuts back on the internal diameter, whereas a right angle welded on using some tubing would retain the diameter of that OE pipe (assuming it's as big as it appears).

 

I guess I could also just chock the pipe off my bell flange, put a heater port in it, and get on with my life...I just have to find someone who can weld aluminum.

anyone have a link to the JR spacer? I can't find that ****.

 

Here you lazy bastard.

http://www.miatamania.com/shop/OrderByPart.aspx
Enter part number 051-046

 

What do you think about this ?

Wonder if we can get some dimensions...I'll find out.
Another groupbuy? lol

Edit: Dude I talked to is a total tool, says "the dimensions is 1 inch thick and has two holes"
That spacer is for a chevy small/big block, so if anyone knows the dimensions please post them up.

 

are you sure that's the right one? I thought it was $50.