ronniebiggs

Bit of update. I drove the 100 miles today with a few observations. The car was running hotter and the temp gauge almost went up to 3/4 which is much hotter than normal. Afr guage was at about 16 but would flick back and forth to 14 depending on my throttle position. It would make the gauge rise when doing 70mph. If the timing want correct that would cause the engine to over heat wouldn't it?

It also would start missing when I took it on boost around 5 psi ish. Only changes I have made are to the area of the ignition map below 100kpi. I used the table above that starts around 33 in the bottom right corner. I copied all the figures and left the rest as the map was. I never made any alterations to fuel.

It does smell rich I think. I also set the gaps back to 1.1mm from 0.8

ronniebiggs

Double post from my phone sorry

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Dude you need to learn how to tune a fuel and timing map and when and why.

You also need to learn how to look at the logs.

If you did what Brain said your dwell should be fine.

Do a pull in 4th gear to redline at WOT and log it. If you go lean (above 13AFR) in boost, lift. Look at the AFRs in the log. If they're fucked, correct your fuel map. Relog after you adjust. Don't touch timing for now. Keep going until your AFRs look good. Then report back on your results.

If you are missing I recommend decreasing the gap, not increasing it. I would start at .5mm Brain may not agree and that may not produce max power but it should be a consistent spark and eliminate that potential issue.

ronniebiggs

Thanks for the advice. I have no laptop at the moment but when I get one I will do some logs and report back. Thanks for the advice.

Could to much timing make the car overheat? I assume it may be running lean and therefore could be overheating

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Whose timing map are you running?

Post a screenshot of your timing map.

Running lean in cruise won't make you overhheat. EGTs are also highest at stoich.

Your overhheating is probably an unrelated issue.

ronniebiggs

This is teh map im now using. I entered everything under 100kpa (Not including the 100kpa line.

The car idles with a miss fire. But weirdly it goes then comes back but most the time its there.
If you hold the revs constant below 3k it missfires every 2 secs or so.

It wont take the boost it feels like it hits the boost inhibitor even though its only at 5psi.

Im having a play around now but its hard work as I still havent got a laptop. Is it possible for someone to show me a fuel table that would match the ignition table above so I can compare?

Would a bad tune cause this miss?

I did a bit of reading about the setup of the tuning when idling and there was a piece which mentioned tuning the car so when it trys to jump with the revs it knocks back the ignition and so idles perfect. I cant think where the hell I red it can anyone elaborate on this as I cant find wher I read it first?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I think you're talking about the ECU pulling/adding timing to try to hit an RPM target at idle.

Honestly, what you're talking about doesn't sound like a big deal. How does the car drive?

ronniebiggs

I changed the map slightly using the other map from my other post "how do you get 300bhp..."

I changed the spark plug gaps back down alittle to 0.9mm and that seemed to resolve the idle dropping issue. I also turned off the EBC function as im still on MBC at present. I then took it for a drive and gave it WOT and it seemed ok for the first 2 pulls. Maybe alittle bit of pinking from the engine and holding back slightly. Then I took it on the bypass (Freeway) and again WOT and it started to miss under boost. Its like there is too much boost and the fuel/ignition isnt right to cope.

Thats the feeling I get. I never had any of these problems before going COP so I cant understand hy it would happen now.

ronniebiggs

I tried to get the revs to stop dropping today by keeping the revs at about 2100rpm and then adding and removing fuel from the fuel map to try and see if it helped. Strangly sometimes it stopped and then it would restart. But most the time it would keep dropping.

I noticed a change in the tone to the engine so I started to pull of the connectors for the COPS and 1 of the COPS had failed. So I changed that for a spare I had and then continued removing the COP connectors and I noticed another had gone! (Didnt sound like it was on 3 or 2 pots but when you removed the COP it wasnt clicking away as they do when the spark is arcing to the plug just as you remove the COP).

Am I melting COPS like no tomorrow as thats 3 gone now?

Or do you think they where damaged previously before I changed all the battery Dwell and they just decided to give up?

It makes sense in some respect as the car was misfiring on boost badly. Just hope I havent got something wrong thats causing this problem.

On a positive note the Revs are working now thanks to the resistor MOD.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

ronniebiggs

Just replaced a coil and now the car seems to running excellant. Im going to set the gaps back to what Brain recommended and play with the tuning as it is pinking at high boost I can hear it as I give it WOT.

Its strange how its just started I never noticed any pinking before.

Full boost will usually be above 100kpa range wont it?

My ignition map has changed under the 100KPa mark but above its still the same. Thats the only think I can think might be causing the pinking.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I sense imminent engine death

ronniebiggs

I hope not!

I will have to go and really try and listen but im sure it did pink. Maybe its time to take it back to the same tuner but just for him to make sure there is enough fuel and ignition at the top end of the map.

Either that or I give it a go myself.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

This will be you.

ronniebiggs

lol

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

how did you determine which cop to replace?

fooger03

iTrader: (2)

threadjack

I've had a problem with start-up since installing COPS, for the first 5-10 seconds after startup, there's a miss, after which the problem goes away completely. Occasionally the car will die during this 5-10 seconds. If the A/C is on when the car is started, it will almost always die. This only happens if the car has been turned off for 30 minutes to an hour prior to starting. It seems more prevalent if the engine is still hot (leaving a restaurant) than if the engine is ambient (leaving for work in the morning). It is not repeatable a second time in succession.

I made 2 changes at the same time - I changed to COPS; and at the same time, I also removed the EGR system. I made no changes to the tune when I did this, and the problem began. I have since made changes to post-start enrichment, fuel map, dwell, idle airflow, etc., and have been more or less completely unsuccessful in solving the issue.

Any suggestions?

1slowna

iTrader: (1)

very low timing will cause high egts and can cause overheating. Grab a timing light and double check.

ronniebiggs

I just removed the connectors and listened to the engine note. Then I pulled the cop up alittle bit and on a good coil you could hear the spark clicking as it arched bak to the plug. when I pulled a bad one there was no clicking noise and so either no or a weak spark. Its running great now but I cant determine if I have pinking. I have been giving it WOT most the time and its still going so it cant be that bad or it would have blown by now.

Just on with modifiying the exhaust at the moment as it was to low. When it fixed I will try an listed for pinking and report back but I think all is well

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

(zack morris's phone)

ping. Not pink. Its and adjective describing a noise not a color.

BarbyCar

iTrader: (1)

In the UK it is, in fact, called pinking. I sh*t you not.