COP running really bad.
Please check your compression when warm, and post results.
Note: When the engine is cold, empty the water reservoir tank, fill up the radiator, and go for a drive, boost it to redline, and then check how much water went into the water reservoir once it is cold again.
How much time does it take for the engine to go from cold to warm?
Will it heat up if you let it idle for 10 minutes or so after a good pass of under boost?
When was the last time you changed the radiator cap?
Does is still hesitate whenever you start boosting? I read you said like around 4 to 5 psi or so...
Note: When the engine is cold, empty the water reservoir tank, fill up the radiator, and go for a drive, boost it to redline, and then check how much water went into the water reservoir once it is cold again.
How much time does it take for the engine to go from cold to warm?
Will it heat up if you let it idle for 10 minutes or so after a good pass of under boost?
When was the last time you changed the radiator cap?
Does is still hesitate whenever you start boosting? I read you said like around 4 to 5 psi or so...
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 280
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From: Darlington, UK
LOL Yes it is called pinking over here "Knocking (also called knock, detonation, spark knock, pinging or pinking) in spark-ignition internal combustion engines occurs when combustion of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder starts off correctly in response to ignition by the spark plug, but one or more pockets of air/fuel mixture explode outside the envelope of the normal combustion front."
Please check your compression when warm, and post results.
Note: When the engine is cold, empty the water reservoir tank, fill up the radiator, and go for a drive, boost it to redline, and then check how much water went into the water reservoir once it is cold again.
How much time does it take for the engine to go from cold to warm?
It takes a few mins of steady driving to get to normal operating temp. But if I give it WOT straight away it will get to the same temp very fast
Will it heat up if you let it idle for 10 minutes or so after a good pass of under boost?I dont think so. I have let it tick over many times and ive not noticed it heat up to a level that concerned me before. I know the fan cuts in and the it cools down
When was the last time you changed the radiator cap?
I fitted a larger alloy rad about 9 months ago and the cap is brand new with the rad
Does is still hesitate whenever you start boosting? I read you said like around 4 to 5 psi or so...No its stopped now I sorted the cops. It pulls like hell
Note: When the engine is cold, empty the water reservoir tank, fill up the radiator, and go for a drive, boost it to redline, and then check how much water went into the water reservoir once it is cold again.
How much time does it take for the engine to go from cold to warm?
It takes a few mins of steady driving to get to normal operating temp. But if I give it WOT straight away it will get to the same temp very fast
Will it heat up if you let it idle for 10 minutes or so after a good pass of under boost?I dont think so. I have let it tick over many times and ive not noticed it heat up to a level that concerned me before. I know the fan cuts in and the it cools down
When was the last time you changed the radiator cap?
I fitted a larger alloy rad about 9 months ago and the cap is brand new with the rad
Does is still hesitate whenever you start boosting? I read you said like around 4 to 5 psi or so...No its stopped now I sorted the cops. It pulls like hell
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 280
Total Cats: 0
From: Darlington, UK
I'm still getting the pinging. Just reduced my ignition map by about 3 on each of the higher values and it's ticking like a time bomb. The original map as bad as it was had the highest values at 7k rpm set at 25. The other values where less and at these values all seemed well on the pinging front.
I changed the map to one posted on my other thread and essentially this made the map look nicer and the highest value went up to 37 at 7k rpm. All the values seemed to flow nicely on the graph. However this ignition advance is killing the engine.
Is it a case that the ignition looks correct with a map like the one a few posts back and is it time to alter the fuel map? Or is it time to revert back to the original map but tune it to look better and flow instead of been rough?
I changed the map to one posted on my other thread and essentially this made the map look nicer and the highest value went up to 37 at 7k rpm. All the values seemed to flow nicely on the graph. However this ignition advance is killing the engine.
Is it a case that the ignition looks correct with a map like the one a few posts back and is it time to alter the fuel map? Or is it time to revert back to the original map but tune it to look better and flow instead of been rough?
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