COP Thread - Page 70 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 03-14-2011, 03:17 PM   #1381
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,892
Total Cats: 1,792
Default

you're going to put a relay on a capacitor?
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2011, 03:52 PM   #1382
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: SFL
Posts: 376
Total Cats: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you're going to put a relay on a capacitor?
I believe hes trying to double fix it.


hes using the OEM coil +12v to trigger a relay bringing a larger +12v wire to his COP's AND adding a capacitor to it.
MD323 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2011, 06:24 PM   #1383
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 455
Total Cats: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MD323 View Post
I believe hes trying to double fix it.

hes using the OEM coil +12v to trigger a relay bringing a larger +12v wire to his COP's AND adding a capacitor to it.
Actually, yes to the relay trigger and no, I'm not adding a capacitor.

My question to Zaphod was regarding this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod
"as an NB user I got 2 line with ground and +12V separated always for two cylinders. "
I don't understand what he means by "ground and +12v separated....", do you? And can you explain it to me? Is it because the '01+ NB have a form of COPS?
BarbyCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2011, 04:02 AM   #1384
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Schwarzenberg, Germany
Posts: 1,497
Total Cats: 81
Default

@ Barbycar - there is nothing you have to worry about.

Let me explain -

I got separate lines (ground and +12V) for cylinders 1+3 and for 2+4 (I am not really sure - it could also be 1+4 and 2+3)

My (Euro 1,6 NB) has an connector at the back of the valve cover, which gives my 2x ground, 2x +12V and the two trigger lines.
This seems to be some specialty of the 1,6 NB (which is not known in the US). The lines do come from the same source at the end.







I made my Cop conversion plug and play this way.

Now I have to put one cap in each of the lines.
Zaphod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-15-2011, 11:08 AM   #1385
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 455
Total Cats: 18
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
@ Barbycar - there is nothing you have to worry about.

Let me explain -

I got separate lines (ground and +12V) for cylinders 1+3 and for 2+4 (I am not really sure - it could also be 1+4 and 2+3)

My (Euro 1,6 NB) has an connector at the back of the valve cover, which gives my 2x ground, 2x +12V and the two trigger lines.
This seems to be some specialty of the 1,6 NB (which is not known in the US). The lines do come from the same source at the end.

I made my Cop conversion plug and play this way.

Now I have to put one cap in each of the lines.
Thanks for the clarification - now I can go test my setup with one less concern.
BarbyCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2011, 11:09 PM   #1386
Elite Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Gainesville,Fl
Posts: 3,354
Total Cats: 7
Default

I'm going legit homies, like Hector in the NIRA circuit. No more cracking Jb weld! Now I need to redo my harness with this ***** *** capacitor nonsense.



turotufas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 05:40 AM   #1387
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Guildford, UK
Posts: 164
Total Cats: 0
Default

Absolutely brilliant thread.

I think this is worth doing even for nat/asp applications, along with sequential injection and a MS I reckon you might be able to save 5mpg. That's up to 50 extra miles per tank. Petrol in the UK is about $2.16 per litre or $8.16 per US Gallon.

OK, where's the 70 page thread on injection.
Freaky Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 06:32 AM   #1388
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,658
Total Cats: 39
Default

[QUOTE=Freaky Roadster;704733]Absolutely brilliant thread.

I think this is worth doing even for nat/asp applications, along with sequential injection and a MS I reckon you might be able to save 5mpg.QUOTE]

I'll believe it when I see it. aka, not a chance.

It's a fun project to do though.
richyvrlimited is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2011, 10:29 PM   #1389
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Guildford, UK
Posts: 164
Total Cats: 0
Default

Oh well, maybe not 5mpg then
Even 3mpg would be a 10% saving for me. and might convince the Mrs on the outlay
Freaky Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2011, 12:58 PM   #1390
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 22
Default

I've read 33 pages in, there's quite a bit of information here. Glad to see brain posted a howto, it would be a nightmare to sift through all this and retain everything

Question I have though; Do I need a capacitor for this setup, or is it strictly an optional thing? I can't find the mention of it in the thread so far.. I assume also that I can just splice into the harness before the connector if I don't want to peel off my ignitor connector?

Edit- Edited for clarity, and because I read deeper into the thread.

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 03-28-2011 at 03:00 PM.
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #1391
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Guildford, UK
Posts: 164
Total Cats: 0
Default

Well, I've had a poke under the hood and it looks like mine is the "newer" 1.8, the difference is that the TACH signal comes from the CAS and not the coils so only 3 wires to each COP. That's GND, +12v, Triggers.
Freaky Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 03:21 PM   #1392
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 774
Total Cats: -5
Default Mounting

Ok, I got my COPs ready to go back on the motor.

I had a hold down consisting of a single aluminum rod going along the top of all the coils. The rod itself was held at the ends by small brackets secured by the end/center valve cover screws.
My son lost the pieces to the above so now I can make the same or something else...

Have you guys tried like 4 shallow countersunk holes on the aluminum with the head of 4 screws JB welded into it. It would serve as studs for the coils ( ? )

OR am I better off with the old aluminum plate on the valley of the valve cover with 4 holes ? I don't think I can easily source the aluminum plate and then the correct size hole saw.
poobs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 03:53 PM   #1393
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 22
Default

^ Several through this thread have JB welded studs to the head, I don't suggest cutting too deep into it, and definitely not with it on the car, it's got some material but not enough to really anchor to.
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2011, 04:27 PM   #1394
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 774
Total Cats: -5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
^ Several through this thread have JB welded studs to the head, I don't suggest cutting too deep into it, and definitely not with it on the car, it's got some material but not enough to really anchor to.

Thanks for the heads up.

My hold down system was stupid in its elegance or something like that. Mainly, the aluminum rod flexed a bit so while the end coils were held down tightly, the ones in the middle were a little loose.
I think a .250 carbon fibre rod that I have will work....

If I do try the JB weld thing I'll shoot for screws with very broad flat heads and shallow indentations on the valve cover.
poobs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2011, 08:05 PM   #1395
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 22
Default

Does it matter much what the size of the cap is, as long as it's 10k uf? I'm having trouble sourcing a capacitor for this application, and I have everything else I need. How much of a benefit am I looking at here?

Edit; I found these on Amazon, they look like they might work for this..

Last edited by Der_Idiot; 04-01-2011 at 08:34 PM.
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2011, 10:06 PM   #1396
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 774
Total Cats: -5
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Der_Idiot View Post
Does it matter much what the size of the cap is, as long as it's 10k uf? I'm having trouble sourcing a capacitor for this application, and I have everything else I need. How much of a benefit am I looking at here?

Edit; I found these on Amazon, they look like they might work for this..
They are only rated for 16 V. I would get something like 35V

You don't need a single 10'000 uf capacitor. You can get two 4700uf and connect them in paralell ...meaning the two caps go together postive to positive and negative to negative and they become electically like a larger capacitot.
poobs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2011, 11:16 PM   #1397
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 22
Default

^ Debatable whether a 35v cap is really worth it. Regardless I'll pull the harness off my old pack and wire it up for use with the new COPs. I'm stoked, just need some wiring and solder clips and I'm good
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 05:10 PM   #1398
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 455
Total Cats: 18
Default

I did my test install today and it fired up first time - Yay.

A question to the electronics gurus - I built a dwell reducer (running stock ECU on my 2000) using Jason's circuit design http://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.p...7&postcount=41 but I translated it onto strip circuit card. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stripboard. Since the car started and ran just fine, can I assume that the circuit is working and therefore dwell reduction is occurring?

Last edited by BarbyCar; 04-05-2011 at 05:32 PM.
BarbyCar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 06:53 PM   #1399
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Saint Paul, MN
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 22
Default

Touch the coils after 20 minutes of high-rpm driving and find out
Der_Idiot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2011, 06:56 PM   #1400
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Guildford, UK
Posts: 164
Total Cats: 0
Default

Spit on fingers first and wait for the sizzle.

Or not and wait for the sizzle anyway.
Freaky Roadster is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Going back to stock. Need some 1.6 parts. Trent WTB 2 10-01-2015 01:15 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM
01-05 Fab9 PNP COPs (used) FrankB Miata parts for sale/trade 6 09-30-2015 12:48 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:51 PM.